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Red Cedar fence and bridge (not as fancy as the other bridges!)

I did 2x8 exterior walls and I ended up having to mill and make all of the exterior door frames and jambs, as you cannot buy framed doors for 2x8 walls, just one of those gotchas...

this is what I use, it cuts to 6"

Timber hackery from local red cedar...... for the grandson.

its a niche device. We used it to cut bevel siding, worked great as you can adjust the cut for the bevel. The kerf is tiny so there is less waste. It is heavy, noisy, dusty and needs regular adjustment and is hard on the back. When they were new they were expensive, especially with a quality...

I don't use my ripsaw anymore, but we cut a lot of siding with it. Use standard strut with threaded rod for spacers.

Someone mentioned the big makita, for fun

My ripsaw died a while back. I let the pulley get out of alignment and it chewed through the aluminum shroud. I have a few unused blades for it and of course a source of parts if you need them. I am away from home but when I get back on the weekend I will do an inventory and send you a list.

I am still around Bobl, just busier than all get out. If you are looking for strut in the Pacific northwest, go to a place (portland and Seattle) called "Acme Construction" or "Acme Tool Supply", same guys, they sell ALL KINDS of strut and strut fittings. I will look and see if I still have...

That's a RipSaw, driven by a Stihl 044 chain saw head. You can search the archives and see lots of info on them. You don't hear about them too much anymore. Very portable, very touchy with the setup and it cuts well when you get the setup right.

I should add that the chain saw head is 044, (not 440), and the wood is Yellow Cedar, local wood off our property (Coastal PNW).

I also am very late for this thread, so this info is just to add to the knowledge base on siding. We used our Rip Saw (440 drive). Nice thing about a rip saw is that there is very little lost in the kerf as there would be with a chainsaw.

These doors are 4x 8. I have the big door in garage that is 16 foot. I haven't figured out how to make that door yet! I think a barn door would be the same problem.... just too big standard door hardware. However if you put in some kind of track(top or bottom) this type of door might work for...

More doors... For the life of me I cannot remember how to embed images so you don't have to click on a link. However, here is an image of what the doors look like. The door is a 4 x 8 x 1/4 cDX plywood samwiched between cedar 4/4 x 6" planks. No planing or finishing on the planks. The planks...

It has been ages since I have posted. I still lurk occasionally but I have been so busy these last few years. All this talk of cedar has my blood running again. Problem: Dome with no doors Solution: Mill some Cedar. The cant is cut with 084/Alaskan and home made erector set Mini Mill...

Pics didnt come through, but that is one beautiful chunk of cedar.

I did try some taller section square tube like that, but when I pick it up by one end and look down, it has the familiar sag in it (15' plus). After about 8" the sag disappears but that puts the riggin too tall. One thing I might try do next week is to "preload" the unistrut. As my strut is...

I double up the unistrut, but it is heavy.. Especially at 20' lengths. I have tried several methods also, but I find that the biggest challenge is the middle support to maintain level. I have scoured the scrap metal yards and have not been able to find anything that I can lift by myself that did...

I know that this is a sarcastic thread, but it is time for my confession (If not here, then where else?). Ten years ago when we moved to Point Roberts we moved into a house with wood heat. And for two years I paid for split firewood to feed the flames. One day, when I was short of money (pick a...

Nicely done. Benches are a great use for wood that isn't up to furniture quality.