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I acquired the FF143RII PRO when they were on sale last month. Used it hard for a couple of days (10 hours a day) clearing trail. Runs good, no problems other than I suggest using loctite on all bolts. I tuned the H screw on the carb but otherwise have left it stock. Time will tell how it...

Can you find an 0.050" gage bar to fit the big Stihls? Most bars are going to be 0.063". You *might* be able to re-machine a 12mm mount to 14mm. If by some chance you get your hands on an 0.050" bar, then you still have to find a lo-pro nose sprocket that fits that particular bar...

No more work at the stud mill ?

I am more likely to experience mild washboarding with a 120cc powerhead than a smaller power head, more likely to experience washboarding with a narrow cut than a wide cut, and more likely to experience washboarding with on the 1st or 2nd pass of a freshly sharpened chain.

In case you are worried about a rough finish with an aggressive chain. 26" Douglas Fir with freshly sharpened chain. 9 degree rakers, 40 degree hook angle, 5 degree top plate. Lo-pro. 9000 rpm. Your mileage may vary.

Any of the name brands are fine. I've used Winsdor, Stihl, Carlton, and Frost-Bite. Carltons are harder (at least the old Carltons) but even the softer bars provide many years of service. I would get an 0.050" gage bar. Bailey's house brand milling chain (Carlton) is a good place...

All other things equal, the increase in cutting speed will be proportional to the reduction in kerf. I don't have a 404 chain to measure but would guess we're talking something in the neighborhood of a 10% smaller kerf. Also, a 7 pin 3/8 sprocket spins the chain slower than a 7 pin 404...

Have you tried 3/8 chain ? Malloff grind ? Muffler mod ?

I hadn't thought about that but now that you mention it, it makes a lot of sense. That's the way I would go. The mini-mill is easier to setup than an Alaskan.

A Granberg mini-mill would do a good job of flattening one side of the log. The trick would be making the opposite side parallel to the first side, easier said than done. It might actually be easier to cut 3 sides if you don't mind that look.

Your reloading area is way too organized. The secret to milling seems to be smoking a pipe while you mill. It makes it look so much easier. :msp_tongue:

I see. I'm running an 084 with 3/8. A thinner kerf cuts faster. 3/8 can handle the power, no problem.

What does the chain pitch have to do with a Granberg mill ? :confused2: Bars for the 120cc Stihls are normally only available in 0.063" gage. Converting between 404x0.063" and 3/8x0.063" merely requires swapping the two sprockets.

Sounds like your rakers need attention. Can't say more without a closeup of the chain.

Why not use a router sled ? When running VERY aggressive rakers (8 - 9 degree angle) and the Malloff grind, I typically see washboarding on the first pass, sometimes on the 2nd pass, but then smooth cuts on subsequent passes, as the cutters gradually lose their sharpness and take smaller...

Why ? What is so important about surface finish ? If the board is to be planed, then surface finish won't matter. Surface finish won't even effect how much has to be planed since there is usually more variation in thickness for other reasons when using an Alaskan mill. If the...

Clean looking 084. Looks like it was owned by a little old lady who only used it once or twice. :rock:

Will Malloff milled with an 090 and wrote a book about it. Chainsaw Lumber Making I've never run an 090, but do mill with a woods-ported 084, and have found a 7-pin 3/8 works best with it. Generally you want the saw to maintain revs without working too hard. If you lug it, it makes...

I haven't done it myself but in theory the 440 / 460 / 066 combo should work fine. The engines will find a common speed.

Use 3/8 chain for milling with 120cc saws. No advantage to 404.