009 mods & rebuild

[Arborisjedi]

hello all,
I'm in the process of cleaning and rebuilding a 009. I'll be porting the exhaust as the cat has already been removed and being a sold peace of metal porting is the only way. I'll be leaving the cylinder stock for now. Need to make up a port map and find my timing numbers. But I'll run for a while before porting so I can feel the change. I'm so keen to get up a tree with this saw. Butt the question I want to ask is can I remove the base gasket on these models if the sqish isn't to small.
Any info on these saws would help too. Needs a piston or find a way to clean this off the piston
Can anyone tell me where is a good place to find parts other then eBay

 

[Arborisjedi]

 

[Arborisjedi]

More pics of saw. I'll find one of it before I started pulling it apart.

 

[VinceGU05]

like any saw.. check squish first.. measure gasket.. if that computes that gasket can be deleted and squish ok.. use sealant to glue cylinder down. i am currently doing this on a 011. that piston is ok to use once cleaned up.. make sure ring is free. and no damage or grooves in ring. bore needs to be picture perfect and free of any transfer, otherwise within a few tanks it will happen again.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I doubt that the squish will be too small. Considering how hard it is to work with the top-end rebuild of these saws, I'm impressed that you got this far. I've rebuilt three of them and it is a first class PITA.

Here's why: The cylindrical rollers in the big end are not held in the bearing cage. A special clamp must be pushed over the big end immediately after taking off the cylinder in order to prevent the bearing's rollers from dropping into the crankcase. This will happen if the connecting rod shifts sideways almost any amount. Once those rollers drop out and into the crankcase, you are toast--or, your goose is cooked.

 

[VinceGU05]

I doubt that the squish will be too small. Considering how hard it is to work with the top-end rebuild of these saws, I'm impressed that you got this far. I've rebuilt three of them and it is a first class PITA.

Here's why: The cylindrical rollers in the big end are not held in the bearing cage. A special clamp must be pushed over the big end immediately after taking off the cylinder in order to prevent the bearing's rollers from dropping into the crankcase. This will happen if the connecting rod shifts sideways almost any amount. Once those rollers drop out and into the crankcase, you are toast--or, your goose is cooked.

nope .. i hate clamshell saws more! yeah pain in the butt if the bearings fall in.. but thats just a 15min set back.. use vasoline to hold them in as you pop them back in.

 

[Arborisjedi]

Thanks everyone so much, yeahh after I took the cylinder off I seen that if the con rod moved the bearings would fall into the crank case. I was trying To be careful but when I was remove the piston from the rod it happened. All the bearings fell :/ but I'll just use some grease or vaso to hold them while I move them back.

Cleaned up the piston today and the cylinder surface that mates up with the crank case. I'll be making up a pot map before honing and putting back together. New piston ring should be here tomorrow. Still waiting on a carb kit.

Are the ELECTRONIC IGNITION MODULE
That replace points ignition any good?

Piston needs a little more work but is so much better already.
And the squish before I pulled cylinder I think was around .52 or something like that I remember I had heaps of more in there. Gasket was .20 on the dot.

 

[Arborisjedi]

Aaannnnnndddddd it's alive all back together today and running. Still need to tune in the wood. From what I've read these 00 series like to run rich?
Sealed without the base gasket. Definitely more compression. Yeeewwww. I'll post pics and a video of it in the wood tomorrow

 

[Arborisjedi]

Pics of cylinder and some of the saw being put back together, I used wheel bearing grease to hold the Con rod bearings in place while I slid the rod back over. Worked well wasn't sure about using wheel bearing grease but just winged it
Match ported the exhaust port and muffler to the gasket. Tuning is a bit weird now but. I removed the coil and points have everything a clean. Reset points and air gap.

 

[win67]

Are you from Paterson NJ?

I always see a lot of saws for sale there on CL, and assume they're stolen since Paterson has few trees but many criminals, but if it's you that would explain a lot.

Excellent work on the 009, I give you a lot of credit. I have one and really hate working on it and using it, the only reason I even keep it is because it was my grandfather's. To this day I have no idea how the fuel lines are supposed to be routed well, seems there is no good way to do it and still be able to maneuver the carb into place.

 

[Wood Doctor]

... To this day I have no idea how the fuel lines are supposed to be routed...

I've worked on four of them in this series. The fuel lines were routed differently in all three.

 

[Arborisjedi]

Are you from Paterson NJ?

I always see a lot of saws for sale there on CL, and assume they're stolen since Paterson has few trees but many criminals, but if it's you that would explain a lot.

Excellent work on the 009, I give you a lot of credit. I have one and really hate working on it and using it, the only reason I even keep it is because it was my grandfather's. To this day I have no idea how the fuel lines are supposed to be routed well, seems there is no good way to do it and still be able to maneuver the carb into place.

I'll take pictures tomorrow of how I have the fuel lines routed. I just looked at the workshop manual photo and the carb comes out nice and easy you have to remove the black part of the handle the take the trigger out as well. Pm me your email I can send you the work shop Manual and ipl.
The manual was good for numbers on points/air gap And timing. Which I'll advance 1 or 2 degrees after next tear down and more porting.
And I'm from paterson, NSW, Australia