Chain Grinding

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nstueve

Makita Freak!
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Does anyone have a complete list of the grind angles for all the different chain? I found an Oregon list but it doesn't list the older styles nor- Stihl or Carlton or Windsor.

I was kinda hoping someone had made an excel spread sheet of all the chain makes and styles and their OE recommended grind angles.
 
Hope you can do better job than what I see coming into my shop where tie straps are half cut and wrong size grind wheels used. It is a mess to clean up by hand sharping. Just did a rework of a Stihl .325 safety chain that my file would not even work without hanging and who did it never even checked the depth gauges for they were at .005". No wonder the customer said he hated safety chains.

I had thought about getting one of those grinders but have changed my mind after seeing so many messed up chains.
 
Hope you can do better job than what I see coming into my shop where tie straps are half cut and wrong size grind wheels used. It is a mess to clean up by hand sharping. Just did a rework of a Stihl .325 safety chain that my file would not even work without hanging and who did it never even checked the depth gauges for they were at .005". No wonder the customer said he hated safety chains.

I had thought about getting one of those grinders but have changed my mind after seeing so many messed up chains.
I sharpen more chain than most shops...

I hate safety chain because it cuts slower and has 2x as many depth gauges that need to be ground down.

Using a grinder is 6x quicker, more accurate than most people filing, and any error is on the operator of the tool!!! A good mechanic will never blame his tools; unless he has none to work with.
 
Hope you can do better job than what I see coming into my shop where tie straps are half cut and wrong size grind wheels used. It is a mess to clean up by hand sharping. Just did a rework of a Stihl .325 safety chain that my file would not even work without hanging and who did it never even checked the depth gauges for they were at .005". No wonder the customer said he hated safety chains.

I had thought about getting one of those grinders but have changed my mind after seeing so many messed up chains.

You need to get one of these. ;)

MVC-003S_11.JPG



MVC-008S_8.JPG


Stihl Picco with offset .350 radius

MVC-007S_5.JPG


MVC-010S_3.JPG


Stihl RS with .210 radius with .010 land
 
I guess if everyone can post the OEM grinder angle sheets here I will make my own excel cheat sheet to print and laminate for the shop.
 
The raker (depth gauge) always slopes back usually in a curve, away from the cutter. Seems like you could lower it by simply angle grinding its face. Here's a schematic:


Philbert told me that Oregon might shake in their boots if they saw this, but I've been fairly successful with it. That way I don't even have to change the wheel's slant angle. The vise is set dead flat and at 0 degrees.
 
Hope you can do better job than what I see coming into my shop where tie straps are half cut and wrong size grind wheels used. It is a mess to clean up by hand sharping. Just did a rework of a Stihl .325 safety chain that my file would not even work without hanging and who did it never even checked the depth gauges for they were at .005". No wonder the customer said he hated safety chains.

I had thought about getting one of those grinders but have changed my mind after seeing so many messed up chains.
A couple quotes that instantly came to mind:
"Don't hate the game, hate the player".

" Guns don't kill people, people kill people.

Don't you think you're been a little ridiculous? Just a little? Meh...yeah?..no?
 
The problem with most grinders is that the chain stop isn't wide enough to hold both sides of the chain evenly to be able to hit every tooth in one revolution.
 
The problem with most grinders is that the chain stop isn't wide enough to hold both sides of the chain evenly to be able to hit every tooth in one revolution.
Hmmm... seems like we need to look at a few custom-made chain stops. I've threatened to make one several times in my shop because some of them look like afterthoughts.
 
Does anyone have a complete list of the grind angles for all the different chain? I found an Oregon list but it doesn't list the older styles nor- Stihl or Carlton or Windsor.

OK. Here goes:
Simple answer is' 'No'. Even more frustrating answer may be, 'It changes!' Best answer is, 'It's up to you.'

When I first started sharpening, I was obsessed with finding the correct angles for every chain. One of the frustrating things I found was that Oregon might spec different angles for the same chains on its package, in their grinder manual, and in a product spec sheet!!! An Oregon rep explained it to me (I'm paraphrasing here): they make chains for literally millions of potential users, in different countries, doing different types of cutting, with hundreds of species of trees, using different saws, etc., etc., etc. So their recommendations are based on an assumed 'average' user doing 'typical' cutting. Sometimes they change their recommendations. The specific, optimal angles would vary with each of those factors. I was advised that what was important was consistency; getting the same angles on each cutter, for a smooth cutting chain.

My local saw shop guy (60 years in the business?) always sharpened every chain at 30°/60°/0°, so I started there. In the last few years, Oregon has recommended 55° on most of their chains to the point where this angle is highlighted on their new grinders (just like it was on the speedometers of cars for awhile!).

Oregon says that a 10° down angle absolutely makes a difference under test conditions, on most of their chains, and have expanded that recommendation to more of their chains over the years. But some grinders, and some file guides, do not accommodate the 'down angle', so I avoided that when sharpening chains for others. Going back-and-forth between 0° and 10° down angles wastes a lot of cutter life.

So, my personal, default angle, for my chains, is now 30°/55°/0° (except when using mini-grinders that are fixed at 60°!). I never know what I will be cutting, so I stick with the 30°.

This Is America! YOU get to choose!

1) Pick a 'standard/default' set of nstueve angles and stand proud with those!, OR
2) Try to figure out what the chain was sharpened at the last time, and match that, OR
3) Ask each customer what they want - you can't go wrong there, and most will probably ask what your default angles are anyway.

The recs for some discontinued chains, including file sizes, can sometimes be found in older copies of STIHL or Oregon manuals, but these chains are less common.

You can add these references to those already posted:
- Tri-Link lists file sizes: http://www.trilinksawchain.com/downloads/TriLinkProductKnowledgeGuide.pdf
- Pferd lists file sizes and general stuff: http://www.pferdusa.com/info/PDF/Chain_Saw_File_Field_Guide.pdf
- Carlton (older) attached.
- Tecomec Jolly Grinder (old) attached (print pages and line them up side-by-side).
- Oregon 511A manual attached.

Philbert
 

Attachments

  • Carlton Filing Specs.pdf
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  • jollygrindersanglesettingsbychaintypesize.pdf
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  • Screen shot 2015-12-23 at 4.21.37 PM.png
    Screen shot 2015-12-23 at 4.21.37 PM.png
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Hmmm... seems like we need to look at a few custom-made chain stops. I've threatened to make one several times in my shop because some of them look like afterthoughts.
Look at the cheap Oregon stops... They are necked down at the tip. There is no reason to even pay for the machining to neck them down. If they would have left them wider at the tip that would alleviate 1/3 of my problems. I like the Silvey style that has a positive downward lock when being sharpened. Plus they have a easy chain gauge adjustment. The hydro lock Oregon is currently making is pretty nice to but chain stop is still same poor design.

I just picked up some small bar stock to play with a wider version of the silvey stop. I will be making it adaptable to the Oregons.
 
Look at the cheap Oregon stops... They are necked down at the tip. There is no reason to even pay for the machining to neck them down. If they would have left them wider at the tip that would alleviate 1/3 of my problems. I like the Silvey style that has a positive downward lock when being sharpened. Plus they have a easy chain gauge adjustment. The hydro lock Oregon is currently making is pretty nice to but chain stop is still same poor design.

I just picked up some small bar stock to play with a wider version of the silvey stop. I will be making it adaptable to the Oregons.
I think these tips of the stop all get ground down when the operator tries to sharpen chains that have almost no cutter left and should have been thrown away. The wheel is then almost on top of what's left of the cutter. That and the wheel is being allowed to drop too far down. Just my observation...
 

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