Cutting 6x6x8 timbers

[amateur hour]

Hello,

I am installing a gravel driveway and will be lining the edges with 6x6x8 pressure treated timbers. I am going to join the timbers together by cutting the ends at a 45 degree angle and joining them together. I have read the easiest way to cut the timbers is to use a chainsaw and go slow. Does anybody have experience doing this? I will be cutting both ends of 24 timbers.

I have a Stihl MS 290 Farmboss with a 16" bar. Since it is pressure treated I will throw a old chain on there.

Thank you

 

[HuskStihl]

The issue won't be the sawing or the pressure treatment, the issue will be the accuracy of the cuts. A fresh, sharp chain will make for a straighter/prettier cut, and you will want to rig up a holder to keep your 45 degree angle. Shouldn't be too hard

 

[amateur hour]

Maybe I will buy a 8.25" circular saw. The old 7.25" saw doesn't work right anymore anyway.

 

[Trx250r180]

nail a 2x4 at the 45 degree angle for a guide ,practice a few cuts ,the beams will want to splinter on the exit of the cut ,I normally cut most of the way through ,then use the top of the bar and cut from the bottom to avoid splintering the wood ,Like i said ,practice first ,a pico sized chain will make a smoother cut also

 

[woodchuck357]

I would use a different joint. Either a lap joint or a separate loose tenon lodged in notches in the ends of the timbers. Both of those joints would be more forgiving of imperfections in cutting. If you go with the angle joint, one trick to get a fairly tight fit is to put the cut ends together as they will be placed and run the saw between them, cutting a little off each timber with the kerf.

 

[blades]

Even a 8.25" skill saw isn't going to be able to make the cut in one pass - max depth of cut would be about 4". there is a makita 12" version that would do it or a saws-all if you are trying to get away from the chain saw. Depth of cut on a circular saw is apx 7/8ths of the radius of the blade depending on the size of the arbor and housing.

 

[B Harrison]

whats wrong with a saws all and a 10 inch wood blade.
A small chainsaw will work better, that 290 is pretty bulky and awkward for precision work, but as said above if you put two timbers together and make an angled cut across both ends at once your golden.
A side note, would be use railroad ties next time, they are cheaper and will work well, they do not however lend well to cutting with any saw.

 

[B Harrison]

Even a 8.25" skill saw isn't going to be able to make the cut in one pass - max depth of cut would be about 4". there is a makita 12" version that would do it or a saws-all if you are trying to get away from the chain saw. Depth of cut on a circular saw is apx 7/8ths of the radius of the blade depending on the size of the arbor and housing.

Not really, a 7.25 saw will cut 2.5" or so, and no one uses an 8.25, but the cut on that couldn't possibly be 4" because theres a 5/8 shaft running through the blade with a 2" collar. blade adjustment gets in the way as well.
a 12" saw will likewise not cut a 6x6 in one pass, but it will chop a 4x4.
'

 

[blades]

I did say dependent on arbor and housing.

 

[Toddppm]

We have 1 of these, one cut no problemo. Maybe you could rent 1 somewhere.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-16-5-16-in-Circular-Saw-5402NA/203010061

 

[Guido Salvage]

A Prazi attachment for a circular saw would be better. I would do a notched cut in the end of the timber, you could then spike through both timbers. I bought nice railroad ties for $10 each for the last driveway retaining wall I did.