Chain Question

[agreb12]

I have a 32" mill set up with a 592xp. I originally started out with a Carlton milling chain, which I had a lot of success getting a very nice cut with. I then added two Husqvarna chains, I filed to 10-15 degrees. I like to have 3-4 chains for a day of milling. I recently picked up an Oregon chain that I filed maybe 15 degrees but it may be closer to 20 degrees. I am not sure why but it seems the rakers are low causing it to really slow the saw down if pushed at all and causing a poor quality cut. I have to allow the chain to do all the work pulling through the cut. I would say the speed was 50% slower than what I normally experience.

I can't imagine filing a new chain to the milling angle would make the rakers low as I think they are pretty tall from the factory. Also seems like the Oregon drags more on the non cutting side in the wood, something I haven't noticed with the other chains.

This is my second bar I've used for milling over the time, but I do think it is wearing a little. I did dress it 3 "milling days" ago. With the other chains I can push fairly hard to move the saw through the wood, but with the Oregon it's almost impossible to get the right pressure to keep it moving at a reasonable speed.

 

[J D]

We need some good clear pics of bar & chains to give any well directed advice.
One thing I can say is you shouldn't have to push the saw into the cut. Once you get the right combination of hook & raker height for the situation you are cutting in it should practically self feed, & you just need to vary the pressure to offset friction etc as you move down the log

 

[agreb12]

Maybe I did touch the rakers…

 

[J D]

For milling consistancy of sharpening is much more important. Hard to tell but it looks like the rakers on the under side of the bar aren't filed as much as the ones on top & there is a bit of inconsistency with your top plate filing angle. On regular chain your top plate cutting angle should usually be 55-60°... for milling you want this closer to 50°. That means either dropping the file a bit lower or adjusting the tilt on your grinder. Ideally you also want to maintain that nice rounded curve the raker originally has as you take it down

 

[Lightning Performance]

You are digging in. That point is right where the cutter lifts and hooks up. You created that problem not the chain. Half the power went there.

You are also a bit low likely near 0.060 depth so once it does hookup those cutters better be razor sharp.

Too much bite and chain chatter is what you have there.

Round that point and get those cutters consistent. Put tape in Cresent wrench or use calipers locked down to measure cutter lengths. 0.003 you won't notice. So short ones can get a bit longer as the loop continues and shorter as it completes the circle. That will run smoothly. Up and down from cutter to cutter or side to side will not work well. Even on all fronts is best with a round depth gauges as shown above. Keep the depth between 0.020 and 0.040 on a half tooth. More depth for less tooth. Then less for longer ones. Clear as mud

 

[HumBurner]

As others have said, round out the depth gauge, don't have it ramped or flat. It's very easy to leave a lip on one side of the depth gauge, so I like to hit it once or twice from the opposite side at the end.

I've never found having a ramped/flat depth gauge to have any benefit, and would likely attribute it to issues I've noticed on others' chains.

It's also incredibly important to de-burr the bar and dress the rails with frequency. Chain can run slightly raised/sideways if the bar rails aren't level.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Figured this would have more posts from those who mill.