Cutting the small stuff

[Bobby Kirbos]

Assuming that I can get what I need to make it fit the arbor diameter, what is the concensus on using one of these brush trimmer blades in a table saw to cut the sub 2" diameter branches?

 

[svk]

Just use a carbide tipped ripping blade. Cheaper and more durable

 

[Jakers]

Wow... Here's what I use in my shop for cutting down anything that's too long. Works the fastest and cleanest not to mention the quietest and safest of anything I've found. 9tpi makes very short work of anything up to 6x6, even hard Oak or Ash. Any bigger and I take it outside and fire up the chainsaw. I used to use the old metal bow saws that everyone has but this is way faster.

 

[Cody]

I use my sawzall. With dead red elm trees I usually take the whole thing and use that for my kindling pile along with splitter scraps. I haven't tried the circular saw yet, and they make 4.5" wheels for a grinder, but the sawzall just seems the safest to me.

 

[Philbert]

Assuming that I can get what I need to make it fit the arbor diameter, what is the concensus on using one of these brush trimmer blades in a table saw to cut the sub 2" diameter branches?

Really dangerous.

Might find other ideas in these related threads.

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...-kindling-from-1-diameter-branches-is.199219/
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...all-diameter-bent-wood-and-lots-of-it.186935/

Philbert

(also really dangerous, but very cool:
)

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

It is worth spending a bunch of time on sticks? I normally don't mess with stuff smaller than about 4". The rest stays in the woods.

 

[Philbert]

Here on A.S., we sometimes refer to it as 'Zogger wood', after @zogger !

Good for smaller stoves, and a good way to use waste wood.

Philbert

 

[Jakers]

Here on A.S., we sometimes refer to it as 'Zogger wood', after @zogger !

Good for smaller stoves, and a good way to use waste wood.

Philbert

Haven't seen him around in a while either... did something happen to him this summer when i was only skimming the threads?

 

[paul99]

Never seen a blade like that before but guessing it might be a bit grabby and get progressively worse up to the point its sharpened.

I've tried all sorts for small stuff and table saw / skil saw always proved to be the worst and least safest choice. A vertical / woodworking bandsaw works well but hardly portable and with as aggressive low tpi blade are still capable of ripping round lengths from your grip.

Another option that I don't think I have seen mentioned here on AS is a chainsaw stand. Theres loads of YouTube videos with all sorts of designs from very simple to very elaborate.

I opted to make one not really knowing if it would really prove useful or be safe...


After cutting a lot of wood with it (read that as several cords in American money) its proved to be better than I could ever have imagined. No more bending over no more restacking in a saw cradle etc. Tbh its that useful the 028 Super has a semi permanent home attached to it.

 

[Conquistador3]

You people would have had a blast with my long dead grandpa. He was one of those backwoods inventors who occasionally had clever ideas but more often than not came up with incredibly dangerous contraptions. Both him and his equally crazy associates lost several fingers in the name of "science".
I've seen enough severed fingers and bloody stumps to treat sharp metal things spinning very fast with a mixture of wariness and respect.
That's also why, if I were in need of something to cut small wood without bending over I'd leave the homemade contraptions alone and buy something like this:

 

[NSMaple1]

A saw buck is the tool to use. Pile them in then cut them all to length in like 5 minutes. With your chain saw.

I have a crude one I built on a pallet, that I can then put on my trailer behind my ATV. I can get around 1/4 of a cord on it, long length stuff. Pull to piling spot. Fire up saw. Cutting 1/4 cord of small stuff to length in 5 minutes right where you would then pile at is pretty hard to beat production wise.

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

It is worth spending a bunch of time on sticks? I normally don't mess with stuff smaller than about 4". The rest stays in the woods.

For this large maple tree that is coming down in the spring (that I keep talking about - one of these days I will get a picture of the thing)....

I'm trying to maximize the amount of wood that I get from the tree. It's at least 30" DBH, so from what I found on the interwebs, I estimate that I will get 2+ cords out of it (unless it's hollow in the middle). At the rate we use wood, it should last us 3-4 years (I know, stack it off the ground and keep it dry). I know that maple isn't oak or locust, but it's free and I get the summer workout bonus of processing it (maybe this year I will get rid of what my loving wife refers to as my "winter souvenir").

And yes, there is a limit to what it "too small". For me, anything that I can hack through with 1 swing of the machete (usually smaller than 1") is going to the municipal waste center as "yard waste". The Zogger Wood (as it's apparently called here) is perfectly burnable and is perfect for kindling, small camp fires, or the back yard fire bowl.

I was thinking about building a sawbuck for this task. I think I'll end up doing that. I guess I didn't think the table saw thing all the way through - aggressive blade, ROUND wood, what could possibly go wrong -- someone hold my beer....

 

[svk]

Haven't seen him around in a while either... did something happen to him this summer when i was only skimming the threads?

He's alive and well. He lives in a pretty remote area and AS gobbles a lot of his limited bandwidth so he only checks in every so often. But he is on FB if anyone needs to get in touch.

 

[Jakers]

Glad to hear he is doing well. I always liked reading his posts. seems like a very kind, good hearted man

 

[coutufr]

I use my sawzall. With dead red elm trees I usually take the whole thing and use that for my kindling pile along with splitter scraps. I haven't tried the circular saw yet, and they make 4.5" wheels for a grinder, but the sawzall just seems the safest to me.

What blade do you use for your saw all and is it quick when you cut?

 

[Philbert]

I'd leave the homemade contraptions alone and buy something like this:

Someone sent me something like that to try. I sent it back. Really slow, and not anywhere as convenient as it looks.

A saw buck is the tool to use.

I was thinking about building a sawbuck for this task. I think I'll end up doing that.

Several commercial and home made designs just for cutting smaller branches in the thread below. A few photos have been lost; maybe Harry @turnkey4099 can upload some new ones of his version (or fix his photo sharing issue) - I really liked it.
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...all-diameter-bent-wood-and-lots-of-it.186935/

For this large maple tree that is coming down in the spring . . . I'm trying to maximize the amount of wood that I get from the tree.

There is an enormous amount of wood, and BTUs, in tree tops, especially large crown hardwood trees. No need to waste it, and you have to get rid of it somehow if you are not going to burn it in your stove or fireplace.

If you are secure in your identity, you can also consider the JawSaw or B&D Alligator Shears (battery and corded electric versions of both available). Could be ideal for this task, although, a lot of guys on this site would give you grief about it!





Philbert

 

[echomeister]

Just use a top handle saw wielded like a light saber at the felling site. I cut three foot long pieces for my fire pit that way.

 

[Cody]

What blade do you use for your saw all and is it quick when you cut?

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/cutting/48-00-5021

In the 1-2" stuff it's just fine, but you get over 3" and it's probably counterproductive compared to a chainsaw. I wouldn't say it's bad in 3-4", my tools are all Craftsman power tools with lithium batteries and handle it just fine. I'd imagine with a quality tool like a newer Dewalt or Milwaukee it'd be more impressive. If it took over 5 seconds to cut through a 2" branch I'd likely find another route.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I use a sawbuck for cutting limbs. I was making piles of limbs and bending over to cut them. Actually a very bad idea. It is not good to bend over and the limbs jump around too much. So I build a rack to hold the limbs then I cut away. I can put at least 10 limbs on it with out them jumping all around. Some times I need the limb wood and some times it is just in the way.

About 5 years ago was running into to buck thorn bushes that were tearing the sides of my pick ups dramatically. At first I was taking a saw and chopping them down. My arms and hands were getting cut as much as the bushes and the chains were getting destroyed in the process with dirt rock. So I mounted a limb saw blade on the end of a shovel handle. The handle is about 5 1/2' long which is perfect for the bushes. I do not get cut up in the process. This way I can reach into the bushes and cut the bushes back with out tearing up any thing else. What I found as as a benefit was when I cut trees down with branches. As soon as I drop a tree like Live Oak I can the clear limbs up to 3'' away from the tree so that I can safely use a saw to cut the rest Thanks

 

[Del_]

Here is a photo that was posted here on the site. I don't know who's photo it is but it was highly regarded as a good design at the time.