Dang, Tillotson/Homelite has me stumped and mad!

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Glad you got it going Mark. I belive I have the exact same problem with my SXL. I rebuilt it about 9 months ago. Took it out last week to cut some oak and it would start then die. Did not respond adjustments. So when I finally get things strait with my house I will start on the saws again.


Good luck on the House Joe! That SXL could have had several carbs on them, Tillotson, Walbro and I have one here with a Zama on it!

It looks to me like Homelite had some trouble with folks running those saw too lean and implemented a fix that would eliminate the possibility (or at least make it more difficult) to run the saw too lean. Seems they took the McCulloch sort of approach and fixed it on the fly using what they already had on hand (the HS carburetors).

The McCulloch flat back carburetors all have a ball and seat that opens at high speed to admit more fuel. A lot of my saws with that carburetor operate with the H jet open less than 1 turn.

Mark

You maybe on to something Mark. One things for sure you couldnt get this thing too lean the way it was.
 
Ok, I'm starting to come to a couple conclusions. First I still cannot understand why all the time I had this saw, that it adjusted and ran like normal then all of a sudden did not!

Is it possible that the top of this nozzle may have been plugged and it was getting all its fuel through the side holes and through the H needle?

I usually go through these carbs pretty thoroughly and have a hard time thinking that I would not have gotten it cleaned out well, but I guess its possible.

Second I'm not so sure that this nozzle ever had a "check" valve in it, even if its called that. Since I got a new replacement for it and it is the same in every way as the original, I'm not so sure the replacement was defective.

I'm not sure its worth messing with anymore since I consider it fixed and that it should be a permanent fix as well.

But I did pull the nozzle out of a HS-176A carb today and it does indeed have a check valve in it. You can suck on the end of it and draw air though it but you cannot blow back through it.

Would this be worth changing to on this? I'm not so sure it would be as there are so many HS's out there running still today without any brass nozzles in them at all.

Here is a comparison of the 2 nozzles. The 176 carb nozzle is on the left.

attachment.php

attachment.php
 
My Brother!!!

You have the saw running like a dream now with a fix that will be there long after you and I are memories.
Take my friendly advice and.....................Quit screwing with it before you make yourself a crazy(er) man!

I would speculate that the jet was plugged and it broke free.
But I've been wrong MANY times before.


Mike
 
My Brother!!!

You have the saw running like a dream now with a fix that will be there long after you and I are memories.
Take my friendly advice and.....................Quit screwing with it before you make yourself a crazy(er) man!

I would speculate that the jet was plugged and it broke free.
But I've been wrong MANY times before.


Mike

What he said^^^.:cheers:
 
What he said^^^.:cheers:

Oh, I 'm done with it. One of life's great mysteries on why all of a sudden it acted up and why any other 925 owners have not brought this up!

I think I do know though, it's my luck.

cbfarmall/Chris and I ran a tank through it Sunday and it is for sure fixed and running great. These things still pull like a freight train.

The saw is now in route to it's new owner as we speak. I told him to check and run it right away and if he's not happy with it, to send it back.

I'll be surprised if he sends it back. :cheers:
 
Oh, I 'm done with it. One of life's great mysteries on why all of a sudden it acted up and why any other 925 owners have not brought this up!

I think I do know though, it's my luck.

cbfarmall/Chris and I ran a tank through it Sunday and it is for sure fixed and running great. These things still pull like a freight train.

The saw is now in route to it's new owner as we speak. I told him to check and run it right away and if he's not happy with it, to send it back.

I'll be surprised if he sends it back. :cheers:

I'm pretty sure my 925 had the same issue cause as it warmed up you had to keep shutting the H till it was almost closed off to keep it from being overly rich. Wish this was brought up when i had it though.

My next 925 i'm just gonna block that off and start fresh with real tuning
 
I'm pretty sure my 925 had the same issue cause as it warmed up you had to keep shutting the H till it was almost closed off to keep it from being overly rich. Wish this was brought up when i had it though.

My next 925 i'm just gonna block that off and start fresh with real tuning

More then likely was the same issue. If this guy don't keep it, should I just have him put your address on it when it comes back? :givebeer:

You would be very happy with this one now...
 
More then likely was the same issue. If this guy don't keep it, should I just have him put your address on it when it comes back? :givebeer: You would be very happy with this one now...

Take it back!! It hurt my arm today when I started it! And hurt my knuckle when I didn't! :cry:

Runs like a top. Cool. -WSJ
 
Ok, I'm starting to come to a couple conclusions. First I still cannot understand why all the time I had this saw, that it adjusted and ran like normal then all of a sudden did not!

Is it possible that the top of this nozzle may have been plugged and it was getting all its fuel through the side holes and through the H needle?

I usually go through these carbs pretty thoroughly and have a hard time thinking that I would not have gotten it cleaned out well, but I guess its possible.

Second I'm not so sure that this nozzle ever had a "check" valve in it, even if its called that. Since I got a new replacement for it and it is the same in every way as the original, I'm not so sure the replacement was defective.

I'm not sure its worth messing with anymore since I consider it fixed and that it should be a permanent fix as well.

But I did pull the nozzle out of a HS-176A carb today and it does indeed have a check valve in it. You can suck on the end of it and draw air though it but you cannot blow back through it.

Would this be worth changing to on this? I'm not so sure it would be as there are so many HS's out there running still today without any brass nozzles in them at all.

Here is a comparison of the 2 nozzles. The 176 carb nozzle is on the left.

attachment.php

attachment.php

Mark, I know this is an old post but I do have a question. The checkvalve for the HS176A is that part of the governor setup or the brass plug that's on the metering side of the carb(similar to the HS168A found on the 4200). If its the brass plug on the metering side of carb how on earth did you remove it? I totally mangled mine which is why I need a new carb. Thinking of putting a HS168A on my 5200 and not have to worry about the governor. Plus they are cheaper.
 
Mark, I know this is an old post but I do have a question. The checkvalve for the HS176A is that part of the governor setup or the brass plug that's on the metering side of the carb(similar to the HS168A found on the 4200). If its the brass plug on the metering side of carb how on earth did you remove it? I totally mangled mine which is why I need a new carb. Thinking of putting a HS168A on my 5200 and not have to worry about the governor. Plus they are cheaper.

Bob thats the main metering nozzle pictured. It has nothing to do with the governor.

As to how to get it out? First thing is you have to have a gunsmith type screwdriver that fits that slot in the governor perfectly. I'm guessing you did not. I have gotten small needle nosed vice grips on the sides to get a mangled one out.

I doubt if you need a new carb for that unless you used a BFH on it. :laugh:

But as you suspect the only difference between the 4200 and 5200 carb is the governor.
 
Bob thats the main metering nozzle pictured. It has nothing to do with the governor.

As to how to get it out? First thing is you have to have a gunsmith type screwdriver that fits that slot in the governor perfectly. I'm guessing you did not. I have gotten small needle nosed vice grips on the sides to get a mangled one out.

I doubt if you need a new carb for that unless you used a BFH on it. :laugh:

But as you suspect the only difference between the 4200 and 5200 carb is the governor.

I mangled the main metering nozzle( I guess that's what it is) trying to remove it, not the governor. Thats what I could not remove. Thought it would be as easy as removing a welch plug. Again I'm referring to the brass plug near the welch plug on a HS168A. I might be confusing the two HS series carbs in my earlier post. If so sorry.
 
I mangled the main metering nozzle( I guess that's what it is) trying to remove it, not the governor. Thats what I could not remove. Thought it would be as easy as removing a welch plug. Again I'm referring to the brass plug near the welch plug on a HS168A. I might be confusing the two HS series carbs in my earlier post. If so sorry.

As long as you didn't hurt the carb body you might be able to get a new nozzle for it. I can't find a parts list for the 168 carb but Pioneer guru Jerry seems to have some older tillotson parts list and can probably come up with the part # for it.

If he does I might know where to get it.
 
Interesting thread.

I have not been on here in a while & was going to start a thread about the exact same (opposite) problem that I am having with my 925

Its been sitting for a good 2 years now.

Mine started going lean on me, almost like it was running out of fuel. It just flat ran away. Pulled the plug & it was clean & chalky white - not good.

Played with the carb & richened it up a bit & all seemed well. It is a totally intermittent problem. I checked the usual (fuel line, tank vent etc. all good)

Pulled the carb apart (thought the lever might be stuck, or need adjusting. It was OK as well.

Cant remember, but I might have even swapped out the carb & it would still do it.

So now I'm thinking air leak (crank seals, or the O ring behind the flywheel)

Mind you this was all 2 years ago.

Now I stumble across this thread & can't wonder if I also have issues with that silly H jet.

I have the HS 151 as well. I have a few different carbs, so I might swap it out again before I do the seals.

I also have an XL800 w/o that silly metering device, so I might put that on there & see what it does.

I really miss using this 925 & want to get it going again.
 
Interesting thread.

I have not been on here in a while & was going to start a thread about the exact same (opposite) problem that I am having with my 925

Its been sitting for a good 2 years now.

Mine started going lean on me, almost like it was running out of fuel. It just flat ran away. Pulled the plug & it was clean & chalky white - not good.

Played with the carb & richened it up a bit & all seemed well. It is a totally intermittent problem. I checked the usual (fuel line, tank vent etc. all good)

Pulled the carb apart (thought the lever might be stuck, or need adjusting. It was OK as well.

Cant remember, but I might have even swapped out the carb & it would still do it.

So now I'm thinking air leak (crank seals, or the O ring behind the flywheel)

Mind you this was all 2 years ago.

Now I stumble across this thread & can't wonder if I also have issues with that silly H jet.

I have the HS 151 as well. I have a few different carbs, so I might swap it out again before I do the seals.

I also have an XL800 w/o that silly metering device, so I might put that on there & see what it does.

I really miss using this 925 & want to get it going again.

Hey mike how are you doing ?
have not seen you in awhile
after being online since 2006 i may be forced to closing the site down due to no work
 
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