Eight Different Chain Sharpeners Tested

[Timber MacFallen]

It looks like Project Farm decided to test a variety of chain sharpeners ranging in price from $19 to $195 to see how they perform. In total, he covered eight options from files to electrics:

The Stihl 2 in 1 continues to perform well and seems like a great choice for a wide range of people.

 

[Philbert]

Gonna have to watch that. He is pretty creative guy.

Philbert

 

[cookies]

looked like he cooked the chisels using the disc grinders..might be why they cut so poorly? he does pretty darn good testing on stuff

 

[sean donato]

I like what he does, but I wouldnt consider that a definitive guide to what's the best chain sharpener.

 

[SteveSr]

A sharp chain is MUCH better than a dull chain any day! Doesn't really matter how you get there only that you do.

 

[Philbert]

I Want To Like This Guy, But . . .

Very attractive methodology, using a new chain for each device (3/8 low profile, narrow kerf), which sounds objective. Not sure if they are equally 'dulled', but that is not that big of a big issue. What is a HUGE issue is that he subjectively decides how much to sharpen: not the tool! Experimental bias!

You guys may have heard me say something like, 'The file (grinder, etc.) doesn't sharpen the chain: YOU sharpen the chain. The file (etc.) is just the method you choose.' How did he decide how long to file, grind, etc.? When to stop? You may have also heard me opine, 'The most important part about sharpening is knowing what you want your cutters to look like when finished.' If he gets poor results is it his fault or the fault of the tool?

People have different levels of experience with different methods. Not sure what experience he has with each, if he really understands how to use the specific tool, and does not address any learning curve or skill with each. He clearly is not using the Oregon 420-120 grinder correctly, and probably not the HF one either. Further, look at the dramatic differences in cut time he got between 2 different trials of each tool:



And how does he explain such different results between the 3, extremely similar, rotary grinders?

Further, he does not consider sharpening chain when it is more worn, or the possibility of getting different results with different pitch chains.

I liked some of his other videos, but overall, I am disappointed with this one. A common case of: ' I don't know what I am doing, but I am going to do it, and declare a definitive winner.'

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

My Review of His Review
(took some notes along the way):

- Oregon 'universal kit' uses one file guide for all diameter files! That's a problem right off the bat. It is designed for low knowledge level users, to compete in mass market stores. Not something Oregon should be selling, IMO. But the basic design of the file guide is a classic, works with any brand or sequence of chain, and is the best choice for most people (in the right size).

- HF grinder: well, you probably know what I think about these.Works with 1/8" wheel only. 'Changed the geometry of the cutters' . DUH! If you grind with the flat side of the wheel, what do you expect the rounded and hollow ground cutting edges to look like?

- Oregon Sure Sharp (rotary). Does not address stone wear after the first few grinds. Not a bad system if you understand this issue. But results should be very similar to other rotary sharpening grinders, including the Dremel tool (not included).

- STIHL 2-in-1. First he switches the diameter of the supplied file, so he is not using it as designed, but still judging it. This popular tool is all about it's design geometry, including the file diameter. Since he had to change the file, he is probably using one designed for .325 or 3/8 pitch chain, which would also affect the depth gauge settings.

- Granberg File-N-Joint: another classic. Should get the same result as with the other file sharpeners if they are sharpening to the same angles. Ease of use and consistency could be factors. He briefly alludes to a learning curve with this tool, although, he implies that you can just quickly read through the instructions to get it properly set up. Someone could post an entire thread on the different variations of this tool!

- STIHL 12V sharpener (rotary). If he gets a different result with this than the other rotary grinders, there is something else going on.

- Granberg 12V File-N-Grind: similar issues with other rotary grinders. Might get more consistent cutters, but not 'sharper'.

- Oregon 420-120: completely different class of grinder; like including a pickup truck in a review of motorcycles. Maybe he could compare this to the HF grinder, along with others. Grinds down into the gullet, instead of achieving desired cutter shape, or matching the OEM shape he compares it to: 'geometry has changed just a little' - you think?

'Lots of ways to sharpen: everyone has to find something that works for them.' - Philbert

Unfortunately, his review does not address the advantages and limitations of each tool, searching for a 'best', and for YouTube clicks.

Philbert

 

[RED-85-Z51]

I Want To Like This Guy, But . . .

Very attractive methodology, using a new chain for each device (3/8 low profile, narrow kerf), which sounds objective. Not sure if they are equally 'dulled', but that is not that big of a big issue. What is a HUGE issue is that he decides how much to sharpen: not the tool! Experimental bias!

You guys may have heard me say something like, 'The file (grinder, etc.) doesn't sharpen the chain: YOU sharpen the chain. The file (etc.) is just the method you choose.' How did he decide how long to file, grind, etc.? When to stop? You may have also heard me opine, 'The most important part about sharpening is knowing what you want your cutters to look like when finished.' If he gets poor results is it his fault or the fault of the tool?

People have different levels of experience with different methods. Not sure what experience he has with each, if he really understands how to use the specific tool, and does not address any learning curve or skill with each. He clearly is not using the Oregon 420-120 grinder correctly, and probably not the HF one either. Further, look at the dramatic differences in cut time he got between 2 different trials of each tool:

View attachment 891137

And how does he explain such different results between the 3, extremely similar, rotary grinders?

Further, he does not consider sharpening chain when it is more worn, or the possibility of getting different results with different pitch chains.

I liked some of his other videos, but overall, I am disappointed with this one. A common case of: ' I don't know what I am doing, but I am going to do it, and declare a definitive winner.'

Philbert

I think from the point of view of someone who has dull chains and buys one of these devices, he used it as a novice would use them all. With time you can master any of them. Ive got thousands of chains across my Tecomec clone grinder and can no doubt produce a better cutting chain with it than he could any of his with little to no experience with them..but my first time grinding im sure my chains were junk..that was alot of chains ago

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[RED-85-Z51]

I bought a tecomec deluxe file system to check it out..im not sure im using it right and its a pain to setup. Looks like it was based off the file n joint, im not a fan of it.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[Philbert]

I think from the point of view of someone who has dull chains and buys one of these devices, he used it as a novice would use them all.

His review could be 'easiest chain sharpener for a novice to figure out'. But he implies 'best', based on speed of his test cuts, and refers to price a lot. If you are looking for advice do you want to see first opinions or from someone with longer term experience?

I bought a tecomec deluxe file system to check it out..im not sure im using it right and its a pain to setup. Looks like it was based off the file n joint, im not a fan of it.

There are many variations of these. From the photographs it looks like a good quality one. Have you used other versions that you liked better? One common factor with all of them is that the instructions generally stink. There is a lot of information on them in the thread link below, including a couple of videos in Post #98, and tutorial links in Post #106 (copied below).

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
Also tutorials by @CTYank here:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-guide-setup.237730/https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/filing-depth-gauges-with-granberg-guide.238512/
Philbert

 

[RED-85-Z51]

His review could be 'easiest chain sharpener for a novice to figure out'. But he implies 'best', based on speed of his test cuts, and refers to price a lot. If you are looking for advice do you want to see first opinions or from someone with longer term experience?


There are many variations of these. From the photographs it looks like a good quality one. Have you used other versions that you liked better? One common factor with all of them is that the instructions generally stink. There is a lot of information on them in the thread link below, including a video in Post #98.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
Also tutorials by @CTYank here:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-guide-setup.237730/https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/filing-depth-gauges-with-granberg-guide.238512/
Philbert

As with anything it comes down to experience, youtube makes amateurs feel empowered to try things they normally wouldn't have, sometimes it works out, sometimes not so much. A novice will almost always have the best luck with things with the least amount of options, the 2n1 for example. I think he did prove that all of them gave decent results in the hands of an amateur. If he were to pick one and use it he would no doubt look back and cringe.

My filer had little to no instructions with it. My biggest problem is the chain tends to move in the bar unless i crank down on it and then it just takes so long to use ill just Chuck it on the grinder.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[Philbert]

My filer had little to no instructions with it. . . and then it just takes so long to use ill just Chuck it on the grinder.

The side plates are supposed to stabilize the chain when filing. Granted, it has a longer learning curve than some of the other methods, but once you 'get it', the set up time drops, and you will get incredibly sharp and consistent cutters. But it is only one choice.

If you don't like it, consider listing it on the Trading Post, or your local Craig'sList: someone will want it!

Philbert

 

[Franny K]

Are you serious or accurate here

- Oregon 'universal kit' uses one file guide for all diameter files! That's a problem right off the bat. It is designed for low knowledge level homeowners, to compete in mass market stores. Not something Oregon should be selling, IMO. But the basic design of the file guide is a classic, works with any brand or sequence of chain, and is the best choice for most people (in the right size).

Oregon markets a kit with one guide and multiple sized files? The guides I have are stamped for identification. This advance cut R chain calls for a 11/64 diameter file which really no specific guide exists.

The rotary tools sure look like a sensible choice if the sharpener doesn't secure the saw with bar and chain like this video.

The Timberline and the Husqvarna little two roller set on the chain type are missing.

One point I believe with the Stihl rotary one he is speaking 1/5 to 1/10 file diameter and it looks more like 1/3.

The cleaning and pulling over trees with machinery are amusing.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I used the Granberg 12v for about 5 years, starting in 1998 but gave up on it after getting the Oregon 511A disk grinder. The problem with the Granberg was (1) rather poorly made and started falling apart, (2) the grinding stones didn't last very long, (3) the chain had to be mounted on a saw bar. When you start doing this sharpening on a professional basis, longevity is rather important. The motor on the 511A is finally giving up, but it's lasted 18 years and sharpened at least a couple thousand chains. I think I'll keep the 511A and replace the motor unless Philbert talks me out of it:

Nowadays I angle the vise 5 degrees when changing sides. I call this a sway angle (port to starboard).

 

[mountainlake]

I'll run my 511 sharpened chains against any of them including new. It might not win but it will be close. Steve

 

[Philbert]

Oregon markets a kit with one guide and multiple sized files? The guides I have are stamped for identification.

Oregon makes and sells individually sized, and marked, file guides. But the single guide in that 'universal' kit is provided to work with 3, different diameter files. Similar to a 'PowerCare' kit also sold by The Home Depot. I asked about this, and it was described as being for less picky customers. Might still be better than free-hand filing for some?

This advance cut R chain calls for a 11/64 diameter file which really no specific guide exists.

11/64 is sold as 4.5mm diameter. I learned this with Oregon Type 90 chain, and really liked it on my cordless pole saw. Search for 'Oregon 31692 4.5mm Chainsaw Chain Filing Guide with File'

The motor on the 511A is finally giving up, but it's lasted 18 years and sharpened at least a couple thousand chains. I think I'll keep the 511A and replace the motor unless Philbert talks me out of it:

You will probably find that the replacement motor is stupid expensive, compared to a good price on a comparable, new, grinder, with new switches, new cord, new everything.


Keep the old one for parts (or in case you run across a grinder with a good motor that someone has dropped and cracked the castings). Or use the vise for chain filing. Or cut up the base and figure out how to convert it to grind square (nothing to lose). Or mail it to me . . . .

Philbert

 

[huskihl]

My Review of His Review
(took some notes along the way):

- Oregon 'universal kit' uses one file guide for all diameter files! That's a problem right off the bat. It is designed for low knowledge level users, to compete in mass market stores. Not something Oregon should be selling, IMO. But the basic design of the file guide is a classic, works with any brand or sequence of chain, and is the best choice for most people (in the right size).

- HF grinder: well, you probably know what I think about these.Works with 1/8" wheel only. 'Changed the geometry of the cutters' . DUH! If you grind with the flat side of the wheel, what do you expect the rounded and hollow ground cutting edges to look like?

- Oregon Sure Sharp (rotary). Does not address stone wear after the first few grinds. Not a bad system if you understand this issue. But results should be very similar to other rotary sharpening grinders, including the Dremel tool (not included).

- STIHL 2-in-1. First he switches the diameter of the supplied file, so he is not using it as designed, but still judging it. This popular tool is all about it's design geometry, including the file diameter. Since he had to change the file, he is probably using one designed for .325 or 3/8 pitch chain, which would also affect the depth gauge settings.

- Granberg File-N-Joint: another classic. Should get the same result as with the other file sharpeners if they are sharpening to the same angles. Ease of use and consistency could be factors. He briefly alludes to a learning curve with this tool, although, he implies that you can just quickly read through the instructions to get it properly set up. Someone could post an entire thread on the different variations of this tool!

- STIHL 12V sharpener (rotary). If he gets a different result with this than the other rotary grinders, there is something else going on.

- Granberg 12V File-N-Grind: similar issues with other rotary grinders. Might get more consistent cutters, but not 'sharper'.

- Oregon 420-120: completely different class of grinder; like including a pickup truck in a review of motorcycles. Maybe he could compare this to the HF grinder, along with others. Grinds down into the gullet, instead of achieving desired cutter shape, or matching the OEM shape he compares it to: 'geometry has changed just a little' - you think?

'Lots of ways to sharpen: everyone has to find something that works for them.' - Philbert

Unfortunately, his review does not address the advantages and limitations of each tool, searching for a 'best', and for YouTube clicks.

Philbert

It amazes me how many folks will assume that because there’s a yt video, the guy in it must know what he’s doing. It also amazes me how someone will produce an educational video without knowing what they’re doing.
Its all about monetizing through YouTube. You don’t have to know anything but how to entertain a crowd

 

[Wood Doctor]

Heck, Philbert, I can get a new 511AX for less than $300 shipped. But, seems like fixing one that I know works for $160 isn't a bad deal either. My labor is dirt cheap. Decisions, decisions...

Say, I found an LED that I could install in the 511A by simply drilling a 1" dia. hole in the plastic that conceals the bulb. Forstner bit did the trick. It sticks out only a 1/4". Man oh man, is that thing bright now! My eyes are in heaven.

 

[Ax-man]

Funny this came up because I watched it this morning. PF does a very good job with his videos but his results are not to be taken as gospel in this video. I don't think the Oregon grinder got a fair shake myself. I don't think he has had much experience with that type of grinder. I myself would have liked to seen what sharpener was best when you rock out a chain .

 

[bwalker]

The only round grinder that I ever got results I was happy with was the one Stihl sold. Hand filing always netted me better results.I might add I never did try a Silvey round grinder.