Filing Depth Gauges with Granberg Guide.

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CTYank

Peripatetic Sawyer
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I finally assembled the necessaries to resurrect this "illustrated guide" to filing saw chain depth gauges with Granberg "File-N-Joint". Because it's so simple and so generally necessary. Again, kibitzing is welcome.

We assume that the file guide is set up to hold the common ~9" overall round files, with ~7" cutting length. Given that, an 8" overall fine flat file with ~5.5" cutting length will drop right in to the holder.

Using Granberg guide regularly to touch up cutters, and cutting clean wood only, depth gauges will need filing seldom, maybe every 6-10 filings. Each tooth filing can take 2 strokes.

1. Clamping guide to saw bar. Leave guide in place after filing cutters. Or rehashing clamping, clamp sheet-metal to pinch cutter on tops of rivets. Tighten body clamp high enough to allow cutters to pass through clamp.

01_ClampOnBar.jpg

2. Set up angles. Set all angles to zero deg.- so file is perpendicular to bar, and sits flat to bar. Set fore&aft flatness with knurled screw shown just above file in picture. Now to set ht and chain stop.

02_Set FileZeroHt.jpg

3. Set height of file. Position file above a tooth. Using screw at rear of guide marked "raise lower" raise file clear of tooth. Lower until in just "kisses" the tooth. Each "bump" on this adjuster is .010" up/down. From initial setting lower the file .025-.030" per chain specs/wood type, without filing a tooth, obviously.

03_SetFileZeroHt_from below.jpg

04_AdjustDepthGaugeSetting.jpg

4. Position chain for filing depth gauges. Set sheet-metal chain stop into the gullet against the backside of a depth gauge. This will protect the teeth from the file also. File the depth gauge- couple of strokes will do it. File all the depth gauges. Done.

05_SetChainIndexingStop.jpg

After all depth gauges are done, remove the file from the guide, and round over the leading edges
of the depth gauges as required. Adjust the stop that limits the movement of the file carriage
along the bar- set it out of the way by turning it clockwise- it's really only useful for setting
depth gauges, not for setting cutter lengths.

Hoping this helps others to find out just how simple it is to use this tool.

This particular "File-N-Joint" tool has been in use for 35+ years.

A thank-you to Nikkor 18-55 mm DX kit lens on d3100 and Polaroid 2-diopter close-up adapter.
 
Thanks for posting the pics and the procedure..I am a big fan of the Granberg file-n-joint

and recommend it to all..both experienced and those new to filing their own chains.

These have been out for like 50 years..when you stand the test of time like this has....

It's got to be damn good for sure..!! - Thanks again for your "how it's done" - and super good pics..!!
:cheers:
J2F
 
Nice lesson and pictures. How about some close ups of how the flat file mounts?
 
Thanks for posting the pics and the procedure..I am a big fan of the Granberg file-n-joint

and recommend it to all..both experienced and those new to filing their own chains.

These have been out for like 50 years..when you stand the test of time like this has....

It's got to be damn good for sure..!! - Thanks again for your "how it's done" - and super good pics..!!
:cheers:
J2F

You can guess how much I like it. Some members here have said they "haven't got it." Just trying to show how simple it is, ONCE you get a few things right setting it up. In person with a few folks, it was really simple to demonstrate and let them try it. Hoping to draw on that.

My thanks for the pix go to Nikon for d3100 combo, with Polaroid 2-diopter close-up adapter. (Lots cheaper than a macro lens- just gotta focus manually.)

Call it payback.
 
Nice lesson and pictures. How about some close ups of how the flat file mounts?

Super-simple (to me, anyhow). Remove the round file. See the note on length of flat file.

The clamps that hold the round file have cutouts on one side to locate round file, and flats on the upper one. The flats concern us here; they allow some side-to-side file positioning.
Slip the tang into the handle end, insert the non-tang end fully in the other, centering the ends in the clamps. Tighten the set-screws.

You may have to move the file some in the clamps so it hits only the depth gauges. Simple enough.

Still need some pix?
 
Hey John, what do you recommend to keep the File-N-Joint from walking when you're tightening it to the guide bar? I've heard of drilling a small depression in the bar, but I'm just seeing if there is a better/easier way than that.
Thanks for these great threads on a great tool,
Adam.
 
Hey John, what do you recommend to keep the File-N-Joint from walking when you're tightening it to the guide bar? I've heard of drilling a small depression in the bar, but I'm just seeing if there is a better/easier way than that.
Thanks for these great threads on a great tool,
Adam.

Adam, I need clues as to what you mean by "walking."

I just tighten the chain clamp, then ease down the big screw to clamp the guide to the bar. Never had any monkey-motion doing that. Never had any inclination to drill the bar.

OTOH, I've seen a couple of bars (OEM Husqy 455r, PP5020) that apparently were teflon-coated, so the clamp assembly could rotate slowly while filing, if you're not paying attention. Couldn't tighten them enough, so just keep an eye on them, and return them to position.

John
 
Last edited:
Nice photos and description. You should get very consistent depth gauges. I must admit that even if I do the cutters with a Granberg type jig I hand file the depth gauges.

There have been many versions and variations of this jig through the years. I don't know if they all accept flat files.

As for slipping, I think that some of the earlier ones might have had a thin piece of rubber glued on the inside face? I have thought of gluing a piece of inner tube or Emory cloth inside.

Philbert
 
Super-simple (to me, anyhow). Remove the round file. See the note on length of flat file.

The clamps that hold the round file have cutouts on one side to locate round file, and flats on the upper one. The flats concern us here; they allow some side-to-side file positioning.
Slip the tang into the handle end, insert the non-tang end fully in the other, centering the ends in the clamps. Tighten the set-screws.

You may have to move the file some in the clamps so it hits only the depth gauges. Simple enough.

Still need some pix?

Got it. Will add those files to my next Baily's order
 
Adam, I need clues as to what you mean by "walking."

I just tighten the chain clamp, then ease down the big screw to clamp the guide to the bar. Never had any monkey-motion doing that. Never had any inclination to drill the bar.

OTOH, I've seen a couple of bars (OEM Husqy 455r, PP5020) that apparently were teflon-coated, so the clamp assembly could rotate slowly while filing, if you're not paying attention. Couldn't tighten them enough, so just keep an eye on them, and return them to position.

John
When go to tighten the big thum screw that holds the file-n-joint to the guide bar, it doesn't just clamp solidy at least not without holding the whole guide firmly. The end of the thumb screw that contacts the guide bar seems to walk slightly before it tightens completely. I noticed this while eyeballing it to make sure I am mounting file-n-joint parallel to the top of the guide bar.
 
.....

3. Set height of file. Position file above a tooth. Using screw at rear of guide marked "raise lower" raise file clear of tooth. Lower until in just "kisses" the tooth. Each "bump" on this adjuster is .010" up/down. From initial setting lower the file .025-.030" per chain specs/wood type, without filing a tooth, obviously.

......

Sorry, but that sounds like the raker settings will not be progressive, so it will only be right on new chain, where the cutters haven't been filed much back. :msp_sneaky:

For rakers, the (automatically) progressive guides are the only ones that really are satisfactory. ;)
 
Sorry, but that sounds like the raker settings will not be progressive, so it will only be right on new chain, where the cutters haven't been filed much back. :msp_sneaky:

For rakers, the (automatically) progressive guides are the only ones that really are satisfactory. ;)

Huh? As the cutters get worn (filed back), they, as your reference for setting the DEPTH GAUGE will automatically give you the appropriate depth gauge height. It's as "automatically progressive" as any.

IOW, find cutter ht, drop (say) .025" from there. bingo.

I'm just curious as to how you see it happening otherwise.
 
el cheapo Oregon knockoff granberg

Kinda off the subject but for anyone thinking about a Granberg type sharpener don't waste your money on the Oregon branded one. It is made in China and is very loose and sloppy. Mostly plastic and just generally a POS.
 
Huh? As the cutters get worn (filed back), they, as your reference for setting the DEPTH GAUGE will automatically give you the appropriate depth gauge height. It's as "automatically progressive" as any.

IOW, find cutter ht, drop (say) .025" from there. bingo.

I'm just curious as to how you see it happening otherwise.

No, the raker clearanse need to be "deeper" when cutter is filed back. The distanse to raker becomes larger, and that means you also need a deeper setting, to maintan the same AOA.
 
el cheapo Oregon knockoff granberg

Kinda off the subject but for anyone thinking about a Granberg type sharpener don't waste your money on the Oregon branded one. It is made in China and is very loose and sloppy. Mostly plastic and just generally a POS.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well ..I mostly agree with the "el cheapo" part as it for very poor quality..!!

But it ain't cheap..and sells at Lowe's at over $33 which is more than the Granberg at Northern Tools at $30.

My neighbor bought one..(Oregon)..it was as you say flimsy and he took it back and got his $$ back.

He then bought the Granberg file-n-joint I demonstrated for him...these 2 products are not even in the same league..!!
:cheers:
J2F
 
el cheapo Oregon knockoff granberg

Kinda off the subject but for anyone thinking about a Granberg type sharpener don't waste your money on the Oregon branded one. It is made in China and is very loose and sloppy. Mostly plastic and just generally a POS.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well ..I mostly agree with the "el cheapo" part as it for very poor quality..!!

But it ain't cheap..and sells at Lowe's at over $33 which is more than the Granberg at Northern Tools at $30.

My neighbor bought one..(Oregon)..it was as you say flimsy and he took it back and got his $$ back.

He then bought the Granberg file-n-joint I demonstrated for him...these 2 products are not even in the same league..!!
:cheers:
J2F

Yeah I unfortunately ran over my file n joint with my 973c (flat and little peices):dizzy: and searched for a replacement which I found at Lowes. Used it once and now need another Granberg. Does anyone know if the Stihl one is any good. The Granberg I had was given to me by my father which was purchased I believe in the early 80's. Are the current ones the same quality?
 
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