Husky 340 oil leak problem

[CRudy]

So my neighbor got me to check out his husky 340 that seems to be leaking bar oil. He had it sitting on a tray and the whole tray was filled up with bar oil that had leaked out of it. So I took it home and cleaned it, cleaned the sawdust out of the bar and filled it back up to see if it leaked any more oil. I went and did a little bit of cutting and it was cutting fine but it almost looked like it was leaking oil out the metal plate behind the sprocket. It could be that or just a lot of oil running down the bar by some chance, I’m not sure. Any ideas?

 

[CRudy]

I just looked it over, is it missing the bar oil adjustment screw?

 

[KYsawman]

The 340 does not have an adjustable Oiler like the 350 so there will not be the screw there. It is leaking from the rubber grommet that the oil pump fits in. To fix the leak clean all the parts and apply a little motoseal to th pump where it meets rubber. Make sure not to get to much and plug the pump holes. The Oiler can be upgraded to the adjustable one from the 350 with a pump and gear change.

 

[dsell]

The 340 doesn't have the oiler adjustment. That's one of the ways Husky saved money. This series is well known to leak bar oil. Some people suggest replacing the oil line and others suggest adding some oil resistant sealant around the oil line. There is an oil screen that has the potential to leak. It's easiest to see if you remove the fuel tank. One phillips head screw holds the screen in. I can't remember where the vent is.

 

[dsell]

 

[CRudy]

Alright, I’ll have to check out the oil pump then. I’m assuming that it’s behind the sprocket and all that. Will that include a lot of tearing down the saw? I see the grommet your talking about in dsell’s picture, thanks for the pictures dsell and thanks for yalls responses

 

[dsell]

If the screen is leaking like mine was, you could probably wedge the fuel tank over and perform surgery. There is an oring on the gray screen. Yes, you'll have to pull the clutch to remove the oiler and line.

 

[CRudy]

The saw isn’t leaking any oil just sitting, it was leaking oil sitting when I picked it up so maybe it stopped leaking? Anyways I took the clutch and sprocket and stuff off to check out the oil pump and I messed with it and put reinstalled everything. I’m gonna run it and see if it leaks anymore... stupid question here but I can’t get the rope out of the cylinder head lol so how do I reverse the piston or loosen it up so I can get the rope out? Thanks

 

[dsell]

You should be able to turn it from the clutch or remove the starter cover and turn the flywheel. Be gentle. Might have to pull the muffler and make certain you got it all out. Piston stops and rope can cause trouble.

 

[cus_deluxe]

The saw isn’t leaking any oil just sitting, it was leaking oil sitting when I picked it up so maybe it stopped leaking? Anyways I took the clutch and sprocket and stuff off to check out the oil pump and I messed with it and put reinstalled everything. I’m gonna run it and see if it leaks anymore... stupid question here but I can’t get the rope out of the cylinder head lol so how do I reverse the piston or loosen it up so I can get the rope out? Thanks

Sounds like you have rope hung up in a port. VERY important to make sure piston is above all ports before you start feeding rope in. Hopefully you can free it up without damage.

 

[dsell]

 

[CRudy]

Ok so I should just crank on the flywheel to try and get it to continue it’s stroke? I really should have known better than this... that’s what I get for rushing

 

[dsell]

I'd work it back and forth as you pull the rope.

 

[CRudy]

Alright guys, so I got the rope out through a series of different techniques. It was pretty hard to do but I’m glad I got it out without having to remove the cylinder head.
I got everything put back on the saw, except for the bar and chain, and ran it and it ran well.
I went back and put the bar and chain on and went to spin the chain around on the bar just to make sure it was spinning freely and wasn’t hanging or anything, and every time I tried spinning the chain, it would turn the engine over. So I took the clutch cover off and the clutch seems to be engaged. The metal ring that the clutch sits in will not spin freely. What am I missing here? Thanks again for all your responses! For some reason things just aren’t going my way on this simple little saw lol

 

[dsell]

Perhaps the oil pinion is not seated correctly on the drum.

 

[CRudy]

Which one is the oil pinion, is it in any of the pictures you previously posted dsell? Also will it invoke removing the clutch to get to?

 

[dsell]

Yes, you will need to remove the clutch.

 

[CRudy]

Alright, I think I’m going to have to get a clutch removal tool and piston stop. I’m certainly not going to do the rope again lol. Now how would I know if the pinion is seated correctly on the drum? Is there something I should be looking for? Thanks for the pictures and walking me through this lol

 

[dsell]

You will see how they fit together when you have them off.

 

[scottr]

The 340 doesn't have the oiler adjustment. That's one of the ways Husky saved money. This series is well known to leak bar oil. Some people suggest replacing the oil line and others suggest adding some oil resistant sealant around the oil line. There is an oil screen that has the potential to leak. It's easiest to see if you remove the fuel tank. One phillips head screw holds the screen in. I can't remember where the vent is.

Dsell, maybe the small hole above the bar studs is the oil tank vent .