The oiler on my Husky 350 is not pumping nearly enough oil. I took it all apart and cleaned everything, inc bar and the holes in the rubber section of the pump and the end of the metal part that slips into the rubber part. The spiral gear and the plastic worm gear looked in good shape. I have to say I could not figure out where the oil exits the tank. Is there some sort of screen inside the oil tank? Appreciate any advice. Larry
Husky 350 oiler
- Thread starter larrypac
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Part Husqvarna 503875501.
You must remove the rear handle/fuel tank assembly from the crankcase to remove and clean this screen. It will be on bottom held in with a phillips head screw.
You must remove the rear handle/fuel tank assembly from the crankcase to remove and clean this screen. It will be on bottom held in with a phillips head screw.
One main problem I see is plate 503875701 gets dented and bent out of shape from chain de-raiment's and such causing the oil to not make it to the bar hole.
I replace the plate and all rubber bits around the oil pump. Part 503854801.
You can also take oil pump apart to clean. Be careful of that poll pin, easy to loose and bend with a hammer and punch.
I replace the plate and all rubber bits around the oil pump. Part 503854801.
You can also take oil pump apart to clean. Be careful of that poll pin, easy to loose and bend with a hammer and punch.
Hmmm... can't remember..... Give it a try!
Could be a clogged bar groove problem. Check to be sure the bar is allowing bar oil to make it to the groove.
Can also be a misbehaving tank vent. It can create a vacuum in the tank as the oil is pumped out which will cause the oil to not pump as much or at all.
In addition to what you have done, I also:
- flush the oil tank out with petrol/gas. Use a torch to find oil tank vent and exit line. Clean the filler cap and the surrounding area for good measure.
- then when everything is apart, you should see two holes on the oil pump -entry and exit. spray carb cleaner or WD40 in these holes plus the holes where they align on the case. You should be able to verify they are clear because carb cleaner will come out of the hole next to the bar and into the oil reservoir.
- if this still doesn't work clean everything really well and try thinning bar oil 50% and running it. Oil should spray everywhere. If it doesn't remove the clutch and open up the oil pump again to see if there is thin oil in there, then you can eliminate tank side issues and its probably an issue with the pump or worm gear.
- You might be able to disassemble the oil pumps to clean it but Im afraid I have not have to disassemble Husky ones before. Ive had success cleaning out Stihl oil pump mechanisms.
I'll check that but it seems like it would pump a reasonable amount of oil before any vacuum could build up and it is not pumping much at all
Once the saw is running, try this with caution, engage chain break, put saw on its side and remove oil cap, disengage chain break and rev the saw near a cardboard box. If the vent was at fault, you’ll see an improvement in oil splatter.
I removed the strainer in the tank and it did have some schmutz around the outside so I used one from a parts saw that was easier to clean. Cleaned the pump and the rubber boot that distributes the oil though i did not disassemble pump. Tried it on parts saw and was very easy job. Cleaned bar thoroughly. Have not done much more today . Busy shoveling snow here in Maine
Thanks, will try that tomorrow
Muddy42, I have tried all of your suggestions except thinning the bar oil. What should I thin it with?
With the metal plate off and oil pump revealed, I can spin the clutch drum and see oil pulsing in the outlet. I can't see any oil on the bar or chain but there is apparently enough that it is not running completely dry. Chain spins around easily by pushing on back of cutters with a screwdriver. I tried my old bar that had the oil holes slightly different than the newer Raisman bar I've been using but it made no difference. Bar groove and channel is completely clear on both bars. Also noticed that the thin metal plate that covers the pump was not perfect so I used the one from parts saw that looks real good. The rubber oiler pickup is not cracked or hardened. Took pump apart and cleaned then lubed with bar oil.
With the metal plate off and oil pump revealed, I can spin the clutch drum and see oil pulsing in the outlet. I can't see any oil on the bar or chain but there is apparently enough that it is not running completely dry. Chain spins around easily by pushing on back of cutters with a screwdriver. I tried my old bar that had the oil holes slightly different than the newer Raisman bar I've been using but it made no difference. Bar groove and channel is completely clear on both bars. Also noticed that the thin metal plate that covers the pump was not perfect so I used the one from parts saw that looks real good. The rubber oiler pickup is not cracked or hardened. Took pump apart and cleaned then lubed with bar oil.
Can you get us pics of the pinion gear and pump piston? Will have to disassemble.
I have seen worn adjuster screw and or pump piston shaft end wear on high hour use saws.....
So you think oil is reaching the bar, but simply not in enough quantities?
- For the thinning experiment, any solvent will do, turps/white spirit/paint thinner.
- Mabye a daft suggestion, but have you actually tried reving the saw with bar on and seeing if it sprays oil off the tip onto white paper? Or rev it without the bar on (cautiously incase the clutch comes off) remove the metal plate? Sometimes turning the clutch by hand is not enough.
-If all this fails and you are sure the route the oil takes is clear and have taken the pump apart and are sure the worm gears are engaging, it could simply be that the pump needs replacing. I have worn one out before and had to do this. Maybe the mating parts wear a gap between them to oil doesn't pump, who knows. I see others above have suggested this as the cause.
Following aplication of the gas torch all oil passages will be explosively cleared
You can confirm oil is running around the bar by pulling the chain out of the bar groove. If there is oil on the drive links you should be able to see it tack between the bar & the drive link if you pull them apart the right way
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