Husqvarna 435 pull start issue

[vizette]

Long time lurker, but first post. I've searched and read other posts before asking this - I know the drill...

So I've acquired this 435, and there's something up with the pull start (as the title would suggest). When I either drop start or pull start on the ground, there are times that it grabs (maybe 50% of the time). Now, when I say grab, I mean, there is a metallic sounding *clack* part way through the pull, and it d@mn near pulls either the saw or the pull handle out of my hand. However, if I can hold it where it catches/stops and then slowly continue to pull, it will pull the rest of the way.

So, where I'm at as far as troubleshooting:
*Pull mechanism operates as I would expect when off the saw (e.g. pulls smoothly and retracts smoothly)
*Saw turns over fine, runs, idles... This may be my next post/question - seems a little quirky, but we'll see after I get a chain on it
*Does not happen with plug out
*Does happen with plug in, but plug wire disconnected (not kickback)
*Does not happen when the saw fires - in other words, the hanging/clacking never coincides with the saw starting
*Pull mechanism seems to engage solidly each time

I'm kind of at a loss at the moment. At first I thought it might be timing/kickback and maybe the crank key was smeared or something, but it does it with the plug wire off, so that's not it. I can only assume it's something with the pull mechanism. Probably not going to keep this saw, so I want to avoid another ~$25 for a new cover/pull if I can.

The 0nly weird thing I noticed is that the flywheel does not evenly rotate next to the coil... It's closer on one side than the other. Not by much, but enough that I noticed. I actually moved the coil away a bit, thinking that maybe the torque of pulling was pulling the flywheel into the coil and catching there, but that didn't seem to help. I didn't notice any marring either, which you would see if they were colliding at pull.

I see some posts about the plastic pull wheel being an issue, and replacing that may help. Might fiddle with that next, but not sure how that would result in such a violent stop and distinct clacking sound.

Suggestions appreciated!

-Rich

 

[dougand3]

If flywheel rotates unevenly....Check 4 bolts that hold cyl onto chassis for tightness.
Other more serious possibilities...bent crankshaft, bearing wear/failure

 

[vizette]

If flywheel rotates unevenly....Check 4 bolts that hold cyl onto chassis for tightness.
Other more serious possibilities...bent crankshaft, bearing wear/failure

Crank doesn't seem to have any wobble when rotating - as far as I can tell it's the flywheel. I'll pop it off at some point and spin it to see. Assuming it was just drilled slightly off center or something.

Engine seems to be bolted on firmly.

Started messing with the pull mechanism again and found something odd: If I pull the cord "over" the saw (not literally, but to the point that the rope is brushing against the top cover) it doesn't bind up. If I pull away from the saw, it snags/hangs up. This was pretty consistent over multiple test pulls.

The plastic pulley is a little marked up at the outer edges where it comes to a point, so my hunch is that's the issue, and it's slipping off the pawls and binding up or something. Pulling one direction or another must torque the pulley enough in or out to keep it engaged.

 

[dougand3]

Yeah, that may be a pulley to pawl dysfunction. And on flywheel, the magnets are going to be closer to coil legs than opposite side - may be seeing that.

 

[vizette]

Yeah, that may be a pulley to pawl dysfunction. And on flywheel, the magnets are going to be closer to coil legs than opposite side - may be seeing that.

Come to think of it, I believe it was on the magnet side. Good to know it's supposed to be that way - thanks!!

 

[square1]

Got one up on the rafters above the garage that does that, 99% sure it's one or both the pawls are slightly bent.

 

[vizette]

Got one up on the rafters above the garage that does that, 99% sure it's one or both the pawls are slightly bent.

I was wondering about that too, as the plastic pulley doesn't look that bad compared to a replacement. Now the question is, which way do the pawls need to bend... Will have to tinker with it some more I suppose and see what helps, if anything. I grabbed them briefly with pliers before trying to see if I could get anything better my manipulating them - man those things are made of some hard steel!

 

[scottr]

For square1 and vizette , after looking up the 435 IPL could your saws by chance be the 435e model with the spring in the starter (D2) for the easy pull start ?

 

[vizette]

For square1 and vizette , after looking up the 435 IPL could your saws by chance be the 435e model with the spring in the starter (D2) for the easy pull start ?

I did have this apart a couple days ago as I was messing with the plastic pulley - did not see that spring. (I assume you're talking about 505 64 73-01) Maybe that's the issue? hah!

Just went to double check - all the badging indicates standard 435.

Appreciate the follow up!

 

[scottr]

Yes , 505 64 73-01 is the spring .

 

[vizette]

Follow up - I've been waiting on a chain for this saw. All the testing I've done so far has just been the power head (had a bar but no chain). I figure I want to see how it runs before putting any more time/effort into it because I don't know what else it may need.

So I get the chain today, put it on, check that everything is ready to go, grab a couple tools to tweak the carb and go fire it up. Not even thinking about the previous issues I've had with the pull start, as I'm thinking about an 034 I'm working on. Pull a couple times, starts, runs great (tweaked a little), slings oil, 18" bar had no problem pulling through ash and maple, surprisingly.

Doesn't occur to me until after I'm done messing around that I had no issues with the pull start. Not once did it act up, after multiple shut downs and drop starts. I guess there's something about the resistance of the chain being on there? Or the bar being in place - I never bothered to try with just the bar, because that seems so far fetched...

Partly posting in case anyone else comes across this issue/post, and partly because I want to know why that'd make a lick of difference?

 

[vizette]

Bump before I let this thread die - just curious if anyone has any input on the bar/chain making a difference on the pull start (for my own education).

Thanks!

 

[dougand3]

B&C will make no difference unless the clutch springs are weak/broken- then the clutch engages the drum/sprocket. That would put on a load on starting engine.

 

[Old2stroke]

If the chain doesn't move when you pull the starter, the clutch is free and the BC combo is having no effect on starter.

 

[vizette]

Chain does not move when pulling, well... not that I noticed on a couple slow pulls. Will try again tomorrow, and maybe mark the chain/bar and see if it's moving with a sharp pull.
Pre-tensioning the starter pull without the bar/chain still snags part way through the pull (a previous suggestion I got)
Clutch springs seem solid - from what I can tell this is a very low mileage saw.
Might try with just the bar tomorrow for sh!ts and giggles...

I just want to know why the bar/chain make a difference!

 

[hamish]

Its a 40cc saw.........no need to drop start any saw, btw, let alone a bad practice.
Recoil and clutch are weak points on the 435/440 saws. Pull gentlty on the pull cord till the dogs engage then pull firmly, the dogs get bent and the pulley beat up by just pulling firmly before they are engaged.
The clutch, well let the saw and a sharp chain do the work dont force it.