Huztl MS660

[IQRaceworks]

I've been trying to do some research on these Huztl saw kits......I don't need another saw, but they are cheap enough that I thought it might be a fun winter project.

I'm sorry, but I don't have time to read all 156 pages of this thread. Can someone give me a quick summary? Are the kits good, decent, junk? They sell 8 different Stihl parts kits....are any better than the rest as far as quality goes? For a nice around the farm type saw.....what one would be best? Sorry....I don't know much about all of the different steel model numbers.....I've only got a few Echo saws and a Poulan 5020 (that has been a great saw).

Any info would be great! Thanks!!

 

[EB Saw]

I've been trying to do some research on these Huztl saw kits......I don't need another saw, but they are cheap enough that I thought it might be a fun winter project.

I'm sorry, but I don't have time to read all 156 pages of this thread. Can someone give me a quick summary? Are the kits good, decent, junk? They sell 8 different Stihl parts kits....are any better than the rest as far as quality goes? For a nice around the farm type saw.....what one would be best? Sorry....I don't know much about all of the different steel model numbers.....I've only got a few Echo saws and a Poulan 5020 (that has been a great saw).

Any info would be great! Thanks!!

They make great winter projects!! I built up a nice 440 kit earlier this year. The basic build is the same for a 660 so information should be able to work for both.
1. the little things are what i found to cause issues, such as the decomp button, the glue they use is crap just buy oem.
2. the tank vent i found not working right, just buy oem.
3. my chain brake spring was wrong, idk if they solved that issue but i bought oem for that.
The little things had some hickups but the oem ones are all under a few buck so no big deal.
The piston pin retaining clips are trash!!! just buy oem ones. the spring steel they use isn't spring steel they just bend and break off.. no good, they are very cheap from the stihl dealer.

I just bought a meteor piston kit for mine and upgraded the piston, pin, and retaining clips, i think it was like 70 bucks or something on ebay.

There will be many assembly and disassembly moments but keep building it will eventually be complete

 

[TPA]

I have not yet read the last 30 pages of this thread so forgive me if this has already been proposed.

I would like to request that someone, on their next build, use a can of computer duster on the crank bearing journals at assembly.

right before you take the case halves out of the oven, turn the computer duster can upside down and spray the bearing journals to cool them...a lot!

I have not tried this, and I would like to know if there is too much metal mass for the can to be effective at removing the heat.

 

[IQRaceworks]

What about a bar? The Oregon 32" bars are crazy expensive.......is there some china brand 32" bar I can get for a good price that will match the China 660 Huztl saw kit? I didn't see any on the Huztl side that big.

 

[TPA]

Did any of you experience a weak ignition on your kits? I get a spark, and the saw will mildly pop sometimes when trying to start, but I can't get it to run.

 

[grizz55chev]

Compression check.

 

[TPA]

good point, that's now first on my list when I get back to it.

 

[TPA]

compression came in at 170psi.

Today, I pulled on the starter some more. I sprayed carb cleaner in the carburetor...no dice.
I took the spark plug out and sprayed in the spark plug hole, and it started on the 2nd pull.
I had initial settings at 1 turn out each, and it was very rich. I tried a little to bring the low speed in first then set the high speed.
I never could get it to tune. It starts to rev then falls on it's face. It idles nice, and when it does rev, I think it is too fast (too lean).
If I try to correct it, it seems to get too rich.

I will try to look for obvious stuff later.

I may just get an OEM carb.

 

[Bedford T]

compression came in at 170psi.

Today, I pulled on the starter some more. I sprayed carb cleaner in the carburetor...no dice.
I took the spark plug out and sprayed in the spark plug hole, and it started on the 2nd pull.
I had initial settings at 1 turn out each, and it was very rich. I tried a little to bring the low speed in first then set the high speed.
I never could get it to tune. It starts to rev then falls on it's face. It idles nice, and when it does rev, I think it is too fast (too lean).
If I try to correct it, it seems to get too rich.

I will try to look for obvious stuff later.

I may just get an OEM carb.

There is a great am carb that works well in these. I have a video on my website on them link in footer. If you try one make seller attest that is what he is sending ya. Pulling on these and not firing is maddening

 

[TPA]

I have not replaced the carb yet.

I am still poking around at this saw every now and then, and a couple of times a day I start it up rev it a bit and let it idle for a while. Each time it seems to run better and respond a little more to tuning.

I can't decide on a convincing conclusion as to why the carb would perform better over time. Could it be the cylinder breaking in some?

 

[Bedford T]

I have not replaced the carb yet.

I am still poking around at this saw every now and then, and a couple of times a day I start it up rev it a bit and let it idle for a while. Each time it seems to run better and respond a little more to tuning.

I can't decide on a convincing conclusion as to why the carb would perform better over time. Could it be the cylinder breaking in some?

I was not urging you to get a carb, just letting you know you actually had a good option. It can be a ton of things. First fill your tank each time. The hose will have link in it and you want the pickup in fuel at all times until you get everything sorted and still then but now you are getting it's feet wet.

You said you had good compression. I guess you checked your pulse while you were doing your pressure/vac test. Your fuel is recent from the gas station? Your spark has a good blue color to it and will jump a good gap? Plug is new? Your gap on your flywheel is perfect?

I trust most of the am parts I use. I only trust that one am carb. The saw is just to big to be fooling around with. I found today that definitive Dave has that carb in his store, he also sells the .74 jet and both those will lather that saw right up. If you check all your dots and cross all your t's you will arrive at the right decision. A crappy carb is a threat to it's health and your sanity.

 

[uprangewilly]

Did any of you experience a weak ignition on your kits? I get a spark, and the saw will mildly pop sometimes when trying to start, but I can't get it to run.

My coil was dead out of the box. Did the same as yours and would pour gas out exhaust. I got a new one off eBay, fired right up.

 

[galvprobigd]

Got the 660 kit together. Took for ever to get it started (3 days of pulling rope and dumping fuel) it finally started and got it tuned with a Rach to 12500rpm. If it sits for a few days it starts with some effort and runs pretty good but if I shut it down and try to start it 30mins later it will flood itself pretty bad. Dump fuel from the piston and let it sit a few days before it will start again. Replaced the carb and same problem. Any ideas? Been running the vp canned gas in it. Spark seems good with the plug out resting on the cylinder

 

[Bedford T]

Got the 660 kit together. Took for ever to get it started (3 days of pulling rope and dumping fuel) it finally started and got it tuned with a Rach to 12500rpm. If it sits for a few days it starts with some effort and runs pretty good but if I shut it down and try to start it 30mins later it will flood itself pretty bad. Dump fuel from the piston and let it sit a few days before it will start again. Replaced the carb and same problem. Any ideas? Been running the vp canned gas in it. Spark seems good with the plug out resting on the cylinder

Based on starts will not restart I would suspect my coil. The flood is a natural occurrence when you keep trying to start it and it does not fire. You could have more than one problem. I don't trust many small am carbs, only one on the 660

But, this is the big but. Since you just got it together I would first suspect a big air leak. Yes a big one would cause all your problems. Happened me and I bought the pressure tester.

 

[kjudd]

Got the 660 kit together. Took for ever to get it started (3 days of pulling rope and dumping fuel) it finally started and got it tuned with a Rach to 12500rpm. If it sits for a few days it starts with some effort and runs pretty good but if I shut it down and try to start it 30mins later it will flood itself pretty bad. Dump fuel from the piston and let it sit a few days before it will start again. Replaced the carb and same problem. Any ideas? Been running the vp canned gas in it. Spark seems good with the plug out resting on the cylinder

It could be your metering lever in the carb is off. There is a video somewhere how to adjust them. But people with the same symptoms as your saw say that's the problem.

Edit
I found this hope it helps

 

[dswensen]

It could be your metering lever in the carb is off. There is a video somewhere how to adjust them. But people with the same symptoms as your saw say that's the problem.

Edit
I found this hope it helps

For those new to adjusting carb metering levers, this video shows how to adjust the lever, but doesn't show that the amount of adjustment needs to be measured. The final height of the lever is critical to carb performance. The lever can't be too high or too low - it needs to be "just right". Different carb makes and models have different specs for the proper height of the metering lever relative to the surrounding body of the carb. Most carb makers offer a measuring tool that will help with this adjustment.

 

[galvprobigd]

Based on starts will not restart I would suspect my coil. The flood is a natural occurrence when you keep trying to start it and it does not fire. You could have more than one problem. I don't trust many small am carbs, only one on the 660

But, this is the big but. Since you just got it together I would first suspect a big air leak. Yes a big one would cause all your problems. Happened me and I bought the pressure tester.

I'l pressure check t again. I suspected the coil.

 

[galvprobigd]

It could be your metering lever in the carb is off. There is a video somewhere how to adjust them. But people with the same symptoms as your saw say that's the problem.

Edit
I found this hope it helps

I was wondering if there was something hanging in the carb dumping gas. I had the low at 1/2 turn out and hi at 3/4 when I tuned it and thought that was weird bc of what ever ne else was getting on turns out from bottom

 

[galvprobigd]

For those new to adjusting carb metering levers, this video shows how to adjust the lever, but doesn't show that the amount of adjustment needs to be measured. The final height of the lever is critical to carb performance. The lever can't be too high or too low - it needs to be "just right". Different carb makes and models have different specs for the proper height of the metering lever relative to the surrounding body of the carb. Most carb makers offer a measuring tool that will help with this adjustment.

Thanks I'll look around for a tool for this carb. It' a copy of a walbro. Even has their name on it lol no infringeent there lol

 

[uprangewilly]

I would highly suggest trying a new coil before messing with the metering rod in the carb.
My coil was just a few hundred ohms out of spec and it would do the same thing. I would get it running then it was hard to start. Finally it just would not start anymore. You can get a new coil off eBay for $13 shipping included.