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Huztl MS660

uprangewilly

uprangewilly

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Aug 16, 2017
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ky
First time Huztl 660 builder here looking for help. I completed my build this morning and tried to get her started. Got nothing, it won't even pop with the choke on. Pulled the air filter and she is getting fuel. Pulled plug and have good spark. Pulled flywheel and woodruff key is good. Gapped the ignition coil and flywheel per the service manual specs. The kit carb is adjusted 1 full turn out from seated each for HI and LO. It passed pressure and vac tests during the build. I even tried starting it in fast idle mode (which I don't have, had to use zip tie to hold throttle open. Looks like OEM trigger assembly in my future.) Pulled so many times in fast idle flooded her out to the point fuel was leaking out of the muffler. Any ideas?
Sounds exactly like what mine was doing. I also had what appeared to be a good spark, then it just stopped producing any spark. I suggest a new coil, worked for mine. Hope this helps.
 
Bedford T

Bedford T

the1chainsawguy
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You can test the coil, lay the plug on a chain draped across and onto the ground and see what happens with spark. Could be more than one thing. Take steps to eliminate issues. I don't like the carbs when you can get a walbro for 40$.

If pouring a little fuel in it and it not trying to start you need to go all the way back and retest, tank, vent, cylinder, pressure and vacuum. The cylinder not being tight will drive you crazy

http://thechainsawkitguy.com

https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy
 
snake_2586

snake_2586

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I got fed up with not having a fast idle the other day, and a bit of spare time, so striped it down a bit and had a good look.
First I wondered if it was flexing and not holding the throttle, as it would just slip off the notch, so I drilled out the centre of the bar/tube and glued a steel rod in the centre. (that made no difference)
Next, when looking I thought maybe push it back towards the handle, so had a look at what I had about and came up with some aluminium tap, I cut a thin strip and raped it around the bar where it contacts the casing, think it took maybe 3 times around to the required thickness, and now it catches in the throttle linkage and holds, so I have my fast idle :).

Sorry forgot to take pics, but I hope this makes scene and may help some out.
 

p575

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harrisonburg va
I've just put together a Farmertec 660 clone. Thanks for all the help that's here. I started it yesterday and it runs, still need to get it tuned up and fix a few odds and ends before its finished.

The decomp that was with it seems to be leaking by really badly. I think it's junk. I put a pipe plug in it just to get it to run a bit. Are decomps supposed to get teflon tape or some kind of sealant on the threads?

I also have a few parts left, can anyone identify them? I think one of them goes over the throttle rod where it comes out of the handle, it already had one of those installed. I think the one to the left of the two large circles goes around the decomp, I was having trouble with that one, is it necessary for the cooling system or can it stay off? The two large circles seem like they would go on the fuel and oil caps, but each of those already had an o-ring installed. Any hints on any of it would be appreciated...
 

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I've just put together a Farmertec 660 clone. Thanks for all the help that's here. I started it yesterday and it runs, still need to get it tuned up and fix a few odds and ends before its finished.

The decomp that was with it seems to be leaking by really badly. I think it's junk. I put a pipe plug in it just to get it to run a bit. Are decomps supposed to get teflon tape or some kind of sealant on the threads?

I also have a few parts left, can anyone identify them? I think one of them goes over the throttle rod where it comes out of the handle, it already had one of those installed. I think the one to the left of the two large circles goes around the decomp, I was having trouble with that one, is it necessary for the cooling system or can it stay off? The two large circles seem like they would go on the fuel and oil caps, but each of those already had an o-ring installed. Any hints on any of it would be appreciated...
First pic Top left is throttle rod boot, bottom left is decomp valve grommet, middle top is grommet for wiring harness thru case, two large seals are for oil fuel caps, right top I don’t know
 
Deleted member 135597
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Deleted member 135597

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2nd pic those brass grommets could be for top cover and brake handle, o ring could be for chain adjuster, the other two I don’t know. I have an IPL for the 660 if you don’t have it
 
Bedford T

Bedford T

the1chainsawguy
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I've just put together a Farmertec 660 clone. Thanks for all the help that's here. I started it yesterday and it runs, still need to get it tuned up and fix a few odds and ends before its finished.

The decomp that was with it seems to be leaking by really badly. I think it's junk. I put a pipe plug in it just to get it to run a bit. Are decomps supposed to get teflon tape or some kind of sealant on the threads?

I also have a few parts left, can anyone identify them? I think one of them goes over the throttle rod where it comes out of the handle, it already had one of those installed. I think the one to the left of the two large circles goes around the decomp, I was having trouble with that one, is it necessary for the cooling system or can it stay off? The two large circles seem like they would go on the fuel and oil caps, but each of those already had an o-ring installed. Any hints on any of it would be appreciated...
The numb goes under your top cover, it's s support, sticks on a post. The decomp is junk. It is so inconvenient to use. It trips to often. With a good one it does not do that. They do leak. i remove mine to pressure test the saw

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy
 
stihl_lyfe

stihl_lyfe

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Resurrecting this thread as hopefully theres some still subscribed that can help me out, am looking for advise on how to reset the Hutzl carb to factory settings... But first the back story

So I bought a MS660 kit, showed up mostly intact and for the few bolts/nuts not included Hutzl sent me the replacements free of charge. Installed OEM wrist pin, piston bearing and decomp. Finally got it together this w/e and much to my amazement/excitement it fired right up after 4-5 pulls, let it idle and blipped the throttled a bit and let it do a couple of heat cycles before I put it to bed last night.

Got up this morning and it started right up again and felt strong, warmed er up and then thought Id play with the carb, low speed screw seemed about right but I did move it a bit, then went to do the fast screw with the tach and it was pulling just above 10k, went a bit leaner and then it died on me and refused to restart. Since I never did a leak test thought Id use as an opportunity to pressurise and found that the base gasket had let go (or was never sealed in the first place). I actually bought another (hutzl) gasket set and thats the one I used originally which was metal, so this time used the paper gasket that came with the kit. Buttoned everything back up and case now holds 10psi. Only thing is damn thing still wont fire, and it seems pig rich - only kick I get every 15 pulls is a flame burp out of the exhaust and plug looks very wet.

SO, am now wondering if I pushed the carb into no-mans land settings, but not sure how to 'start again' on these carbs. Or something else has gone bad... Spent many hrs this avo trying to make it go and wondering whether I should replace the carb with the Walbro one I see referenced a bit, but part of me also feels like this might be throwing good money after bad and I should find a 2nd hand OEM saw and use this thing for parts... Probably just the frustration talking, was having lotsa fun until it damn-well died
 
X 66 Stang347 X

X 66 Stang347 X

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My carb wouldn’t hold inlet pressure even with a new needle installed. You can set your carb setting at 1 turn on both and fine tune from there if it’s a good carb.
The transfers on the cylinder was hitting the saw when mine was bolted down. Just grind some clearance if they are.
Check your flywheel nut and key. Seen some kits shear the key. With the fitment or nut not tight enough was why on a couple.
 
stihl_lyfe

stihl_lyfe

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OK thanks, some stuff to try. Seems to be plenty of spark, and should've said all looked well inside when I pulled and reinstalled the cylinder. Re setting up the carb, screw H and L clockwise all the way and then back one turn?
 
X 66 Stang347 X

X 66 Stang347 X

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OK thanks, some stuff to try. Seems to be plenty of spark, and should've said all looked well inside when I pulled and reinstalled the cylinder. Re setting up the carb, screw H and L clockwise all the way and then back one turn?
Yes clockwise til lightly seated. Their easily flooded. And have to be pulled hard to start. Some use the decomp valve but it fires faster without for me.
 
stihl_lyfe

stihl_lyfe

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It's possible I just failed to start due to flooding I suppose, was pulling the plug and turning over to clear etc and was just filling back up with gas without kicking though.

Whats the starting protocol for these anyway? For my OE 361 I go full choke for 3-4 pulls til it fires then to no choke for another 4-5 pulls and it fires up without fail summer or winter. Is about 10C here at the moment. Was applying the same to the hutzl which also started it first few times, though no deal after I messed with carb/it died at high rpm.
 
X 66 Stang347 X

X 66 Stang347 X

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Same start procedure as your 361.
Your high idle position may not be working which would cause it hard to start.
If you don’t have a way to pressurize the inlet needle I would still suspect that. On mine I could see the fuel flowing in the carb when looking in at the brass check valve.
 
stihl_lyfe

stihl_lyfe

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So an update - the saw runs! I made the carb screw adjustments and tried to start it again today no choke and it fired but sheared the woodruff key in the process. Went out at lunchtime to track down another key and yanked the starter and fired up on first pull (again no choke). Ran it a bit and will let it cool down before re-tightening the cylinder bolts - when I ripped it down after finding the leak last time these did not take much to undo so figure (hoping) things relaxed a bit due to the heat cycling.

Will keep yall updated, I suppose this was two problems on top of each other (blown base gasket and then flooding) which made the basic problem seem more desperate than it was. Also pasted below the fancy muffler I made for this thing, factory baffle drilled out a bit and a droopy stainless pipe added (square of perforated stainless also tacked to inside as screen).

IMG_20190826_084333.jpg

IMG_20190826_143853.jpg
 
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