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grizz55chev

grizz55chev

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Well my gasket material showed up and 20 min later I have a gasket that fits and all holes line up perfectly. Thanks guys for all the tips and help
It ain’t pretty but it will fit. View attachment 898736
Take a close look at post #12 on the previous page, I'd shoot for something more like the gasket in that pic. Trace the case with a good ball point pen and take your time cutting it out.
 
Jasent

Jasent

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NorthEastern wa
Take a close look at post #12 on the previous page, I'd shoot for something more like the gasket in that pic. Trace the case with a good ball point pen and take your time cutting it out.
Post 12 is my post. That’s a picture of the original gasket. Dosent need to be that open. I will clean up the inside ares of the fuel and oil cavity’s but I was just stoked I got everything to line up on my first try
 
Bob Hedgecutter

Bob Hedgecutter

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Post 12 is my post. That’s a picture of the original gasket. Dosent need to be that open. I will clean up the inside ares of the fuel and oil cavity’s but I was just stoked I got everything to line up on my first try

Yep, doesn't have to look like the original- some areas of the interior need a clean up as you mentioned- but the end result can be more like the scan JJ supplied- see how that differs from the original you have?
Then, as Jerry stated- bolt it together and the outside can be trimmed to be flush with the completed case. ;)
 
pioneerguy600

pioneerguy600

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For making the screw holes in gasket material I use a hollow punch and mount it in a drill press or hand held drill, place the gasket material on a flat board, the rotating punch will make a perfect hole without tearing the material. To get a very nice outline of the case transfered to the gasket I coat the case with water soluble block print ink, it does not dry really quick so its easy to work with. Once coated take the wet side of the case and place it directly on the gasket material, careful not to cause it to swerve just push down lightly, then lift straight off. Presto, there is the gasket shape in near perfect outline, holes and all. Cut out as described before, holes first, inside next and after confirming a good fit up trim the outside a bit large to begin with, after assembly the outside can be trimmed flush with an exacto knife.
 
Bob Hedgecutter

Bob Hedgecutter

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For making the screw holes in gasket material I use a hollow punch and mount it in a drill press or hand held drill, place the gasket material on a flat board, the rotating punch will make a perfect hole without tearing the material. To get a very nice outline of the case transfered to the gasket I coat the case with water soluble block print ink, it does not dry really quick so its easy to work with. Once coated take the wet side of the case and place it directly on the gasket material, careful not to cause it to swerve just push down lightly, then lift straight off. Presto, there is the gasket shape in near perfect outline, holes and all. Cut out as described before, holes first, inside next and after confirming a good fit up trim the outside a bit large to begin with, after assembly the outside can be trimmed flush with an exacto knife.

But either use the case half that does not have them, or remove the locator pins first. :yes:
 
pioneerguy600

pioneerguy600

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But either use the case half that does not have them, or remove the locator pins first. :yes:
On most saws I work on the pins tap back or out of the way, if the paint is applied sparingly the holes won`t get filled in so they show up really well, the pin holes as well. I used to use Prussian Blue but that stuff gets messy and difficult to clean up, the water based stuff is much simpler for cleanup.
 
Jasent

Jasent

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Progress on my jonsered 2094 turbo. Case is sealed up gasket trimmed out. Was able to trim out both oil and fuel tanks right to the edges. (Thanks for the tips) New bearings/seals installed (metal cage) and hyway pop up for husky 395 and caber rings. Opened up muffler port to 75% and gutted baffles. Finished porting it this morning. Stock was 106,126,71. I went with 103,126,78. Widened intake and exhaust and upper transfers. Got it put together enough last night for a quick heat cycle. Passed vacuum tests both engine and carb. 873D7BEF-3721-4605-9644-D205E6022F42.jpeg
 
Jasent

Jasent

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You know the 395 Hyway will be down a bit on the original 2094 Cylinder eh? Your porting will no doubt help- but if you ever happen across a Partner K950 cut off saw...... guess what top end it has on it? ;)
Oem cylinder was in great shape so I stuck with it and just used the 395 piston. I chose this piston because hyways 395 pop up piston has its ring pins close together. The rings do not contact the intake port. This allows me to widen intake port and upper transfers more with out worrying about hanging a ring.
K950 cylinders can still be found, those chopsaws seem to eat up cylinders
 
Bob Hedgecutter

Bob Hedgecutter

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Oem cylinder was in great shape so I stuck with it and just used the 395 piston. I chose this piston because hyways 395 pop up piston has its ring pins close together. The rings do not contact the intake port. This allows me to widen intake port and upper transfers more with out worrying about hanging a ring.
K950 cylinders can still be found, those chopsaws seem to eat up cylinders
Ah, I must have misread the part where it was just the Hyway piston- all good.
I recently picked up a K950 with a excellent top end- sheared crank! Probably could not buy a set of Caber rings over here for what I paid for the busted Partner- so I have a spare top end for my own 2094.
 
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