Is this Super 250 too far gone

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Thanks Chris, that was pretty close to what I was picturing. As for the piston, there are no locating rings. Mark had told me he likes to keep the ring ends away from the intake. So I put one around the exhaust and the other almost 180 from that.

Thanks Lee, I thought that was how it hooks up. The problem I am having is, in order to get the throttle rod to hold the plate against the throttle stop screw it will get stuck when pulling the throttle trigger. When the rod moves forward too the area I have pointed out in the picture it will not want to move forward. It probably will just take some playing with.
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Thanks Chris, that was pretty close to what I was picturing. As for the piston, there are no locating rings. Mark had told me he likes to keep the ring ends away from the intake. So I put one around the exhaust and the other almost 180 from that.

Thanks Lee, I thought that was how it hooks up. The problem I am having is, in order to get the throttle rod to hold the plate against the throttle stop screw it will get stuck when pulling the throttle trigger. When the rod moves forward too the area I have pointed out in the picture it will not want to move forward. It probably will just take some playing with.
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Looking at it again, The rod should be more straight.
Looks like it is pointing upward at the carb end so when
you give it throttle the rod moves upward. Another words the rod should be more parallel with each other.


Lee
 
Actually the throttle linkage should push the throttle lever forward and hold it open. That carburetor is equipped with an idle speed governor that has a tiny spring to open the throttle, and as the engine speeds up the air over the throttle butterfly closes it. The throttle shaft is off center to insure that air passing through the carburetor pulls the butterfly closed.

Here is the way it looks on a 700 Series saw:

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Mark
 
If I am understanding this correctly, the throttle linkage does not have to pull the throttle lever all the way back to the throttle stop screw. The air flow will do that when necessary. Still have a lot to learn about these saws.
 
Yes the air flow will close the throttle if:

1) the spring is correctly set

2) the throttle shaft is not binding

3) the engine is tight enough to pull air through without some "spit back" that pushes the throttle open again

4) the linkage does not prevent the tiny spring and air flow from working their magic

Mark
 
Thats a lot of ifs. In other words, if the saw is running well, it will run like it should. Some of these Macs seem like you need that magic ball in your avatar, Mark.
Stick with it Brian. Lotta moxie waiting for paint to dry. Takes patience sometimes I don't have. But hopefully a lot a bunch more work saved, or a better overall job. Painted a tractor this time last year for Dad, took it parading Saturday, soon as the parade started the antifreeze leak did too, seal out in the water pump. Its not a "new" tractor again anymore, I guess.
 
Ok, I seem to have it running again. Thanks Mark! At first it wanted to race a little bit but I kept working with it and everything seemed to smooth out. Still get a little bit of spit back but nothing like before. I have it sitting now waiting to see if it is going to fill the air box with gas again. Shouldnt, but I will see what happens. Now I need to put it in some wood. I want to go to my parents house and run it but nobody will be home till Sunday. Never used a bow say, and this has no chain brake. Call me a sissy but I would like someone there to dial 911. So I am going to try for Sunday. I hope this is my last update, and next will be a video! Thanks for being patient with me.:cheers:
 
We are all waiting for the final outcome, but cheers to you for sticking with it so far.

Bow bars are great for their intended application(s) but not so useful for general cutting. There is a lot of potention kick back zone on that bar so do be careful, or consider running a standard bar and chain untill you get the feel of that saw in action.

Oh yeah, maybe you could have someone with some first aid training on hand, like a fireman or paramedic...

Mark
 
Never used a bow say, and this has no chain brake. Call me a sissy but I would like someone there to dial 911.
Good call. I try to never cut alone. Sometimes it can't be helped, but it's best to have someone within yelling distance. You just never know what might happen.
Enjoy that saw and wear ear plugs. :cheers:
 
We are all waiting for the final outcome, but cheers to you for sticking with it so far.

Bow bars are great for their intended application(s) but not so useful for general cutting. There is a lot of potention kick back zone on that bar so do be careful, or consider running a standard bar and chain untill you get the feel of that saw in action.

Oh yeah, maybe you could have someone with some first aid training on hand, like a fireman or paramedic...

Mark

My dad use this for cutting fire wood, when he lived in South Carolina. I dont know if he ever had a regular bar for it. Thanks to Mr. Bowsaw I have a bar for it just need to get chain. If he didnt have a regular bar for it I dont know how he cut the trees down either. I am a Firefigher/EMT. But I guess if I am the one hurt that dosnt help much. Tried to get a buddy I work with that dosnt live to far from me to come watch but he was getting on an air boat with his son. Just going to have to wait till Sunday.

Good call. I try to never cut alone. Sometimes it can't be helped, but it's best to have someone within yelling distance. You just never know what might happen.
Enjoy that saw and wear ear plugs. :cheers:

If I am trying to get something done I dont usually worry as much. But this is for fun with an unfamiliar saw. I must be getting old, I am siding with common sense.
 
Yes the air flow will close the throttle if:

1) the spring is correctly set

2) the throttle shaft is not binding

3) the engine is tight enough to pull air through without some "spit back" that pushes the throttle open again

4) the linkage does not prevent the tiny spring and air flow from working their magic

Mark

Mark, I have a 1-80 that surges at wide open throttle on about 2 or 3 second intervals. Could it be that your above list of "ifs" is my problem? Not sure how to correct it if it is. But at least it will give me a starting point. Thanks.
 
The 1-80 has an air vane governer designed to prevent the engine from overspeeding when running unloaded. What you are hearing is normal out of the cut, when under load it will run much more evenly. Next time you are running it, try blocking the air inlet on the flywheel cover for a few seconds, you should hear the engine speed up and surge less since you've blocked the air flowing over the governer vane.

It is possible to readjust the linkage to make them more or less restrictive. I would put it in a good piece of wood and if it cuts well, don't mess with it, if it still surges in the cut you may want to try making a tiny adjustment.

Mark
 
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Thanks Mark, you sure do know your Macs

It did surge in the cut but I may not have been cutting big enough wood. It has a 36 inch bar so I need to find a bigger log.
 
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I have made several stupid mistakes that have cost me time and money, so I hope others that try this for the first time can avoid some of this. And here is yet another error. While chasing a possible air leak I went to tighten the air box screws, as Mark had suggested to me. Trying to be quick about it so I could get to the 797, I snapped a bolt. I got lucky and there was enough protruding I could take it out with pliers. Now I have a new insulator gasket and a new stuffer gasket in there and I am hoping that will cure the problem.

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Keep at her my friend. I'm pulling hard for you. I can't wait to start my Super 250 project, parts are arriving daily. Just gotta find time to get the eternal D-44 off the bench. Oh well, pulling season is drawing to a close in the next few weeks... Believe it or not, I'd rather hear a big cube Melrose Park 466 redlining away from a holeshot than any saw any day, so the wait is worth it.

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Keep at her my friend. I'm pulling hard for you. I can't wait to start my Super 250 project, parts are arriving daily. Just gotta find time to get the eternal D-44 off the bench. Oh well, pulling season is drawing to a close in the next few weeks... Believe it or not, I'd rather hear a big cube Melrose Park 466 redlining away from a holeshot than any saw any day, so the wait is worth it.

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So which tractor is yours????? Yes I'm done following the circuit for this year so now it's time to start on the saws.

Brian ~ That was a close one. I have overtightened a bolt or two and snapped them off.
 
So which tractor is yours????? Yes I'm done following the circuit for this year so now it's time to start on the saws.

Brian ~ That was a close one. I have overtightened a bolt or two and snapped them off.

Neither at the moment. Both are the Harmon Team's, but Bud Boy is for sale. Someday...
 
Never been to a tractor pull. Dont know why, it looks like fun. Some friends of my father that I used to work with as well compeate. Dont know what class, I know one of them took a garden tractor that was at my parents(wasnt in any better shape than the Super 250) restored it real nice and pulls with it. When the kids get a little older I will have to take them.
I did get lucky on that bolt, it snapped at the reed plate rather than the block. If it has snapped in the block I would have been screwed. I am on to my last detail now. The fuel pick up line I was using cracked and needs to be replaced. I am having trouble with the trygon and keep ripping it trying to get it to stretch enough to fit on the nipple. I guess if I look back at the first page I should be happy I have got to run at all. :cheers:
 
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