McCulloch Chain Saws

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The 10 Series G saws were not intended to be converted to direct drive so there is no easy change over available. The direct drive 10 Series saws have the automatic oil pump in the oil tank at the front of the saw. The gear drive saws have a unique oil tank/crankcase that only works with the gear box, the automatic oil pump is driven off the output shaft in the gearbox. On the direct drive saws, the crankcase/oil tank is also the mounting point for the bar. On the gear drive saws the bar mounts to the gearbox. I won't say it can't be done, but it would not be easy and would require a lot of custom fabrication to make it work.

The G70 and other 10 Series gear drive saws were normally aimed at pulp wood cutters. I think because so much pulp wood was cut with bow bars, the extra pull was often appreciated.

If you are interested in trading the G70 for an equivalent direct drive 10 Series like a 7-10 or PM700 I think I could arrange something. I think you might enjoy the higher chain speed for blocking and milling. You might consider using 3/8 LP if you plan to do much milling as the smaller cutters are frequently employed for milling. I can set you up with a NOS 28" hardnose bar but I will have to check to see what gauge it is. A sprocket nose bar would be friendlier for milling though.

Mark
Hey Mark, thanks for the thorough reply! I agree about the difficulty presented by converting this thing to DD... I thought it was odd that Acres had it listed as "convertible", as not all gear drives are listed as such... Whatever the case, I wasn't planning to convert it anyhow... More like a grab for information/ parts. I have yet to put the saw in wood, and once I do, I will be in a better position to decide if I want to keep it or trade it off. I'm leaning toward keeping it, as I just dumped my general purpose saw for a motorcycle... Ever tried to cut firewood with 1970 ironhead? Geez... Thanks again bud!

Cam
 
Welcome Cam. I have never played with a geared saw, so I won't be much help. Mark H would be one of the more "in the know" guys about all things Mac, and has a pretty respectable collection of saws to boot. Would like to see some pics of the beast or a video of it running.
Not the best picture, but it's all I have at the moment. She's in good shape. Muffler is there, starter handle ain't melted... Handle needs cleaned up and wrapped in cork tape(my arthritis hates vibration), but otherwise, for $75, I think it's a fair deal. Where I live(KY), we don't see many saws over 60cc, so we probably pay a little more than, say, the PNW, but, like any addiction, I'll pay what it takes!
image.jpg
 
Welcome Cam. I have never played with a geared saw, so I won't be much help. Mark H would be one of the more "in the know" guys about all things Mac, and has a pretty respectable collection of saws to boot. Would like to see some pics of the beast or a video of it running.
Not the best picture, but it's all I have at the moment. She's in good shape. Muffler is there, starter handle ain't melted... Handle needs cleaned up and wrapped in cork tape(my arthritis hates vibration), but otherwise, for $75, I think it's a fair deal. Where I live(KY), we don't see many saws over 60cc, so we probably pay a little more than, say, the PNW, but, like any addiction, I'll pay what it takes!
View attachment 396033
My 2-10G

View attachment 396034

View attachment 396035

eBay seller customchainsawparts has the spike bar available for $12.

Mark

Wow. It's almost a dead ringer, ain't it? Nice looking saw! Mine actually does have the spikes; just a bad picture. I'm planning on busting up a big cedar(eastern red) root burl/ stump with it today, and I'll try to shoot some video of it running. Gotta touch up the chain and get the kid down for a nap, and then I'm out for the day.
 
$75 bucks? That deserves a YOU SUCK! that is a pretty good deal on a good looking classic! It will probalby work better for wood than the old ironhead:chainsaw:
 
$75 bucks? That deserves a YOU SUCK! that is a pretty good deal on a good looking classic! It will probalby work better for wood than the old ironhead:chainsaw:

That's good to hear! I have learned with old machinery and and old hand tools that, unless you are a serious player in the collector market, things are "worth" whatever someone will pay for them. As such, whenever I buy an old saw, I always assume that I'm over paying, since there isn't a track able "market", per se. So, whenever I get a hearty "YOU SUCK", it makes me feel better! Thanks!

Cam
 
Where in KY are you? I think I have a RH start 2-10 here if you are interested.

I'm in Louisville. Downtown at the moment, though trying to move to the IN side with some property. I may be interested, yeah. Feel free to PM me with more info. I shouldn't even be entertaining the idea, but I can't help myself.

Cam
 
It'll be interesting to see what I have for macs .. I'll be stoked if a gear reduction unit is hiding there. I have about 15, including some old, and very interesting looking models. I still think the 550 is the largest, but there are a couple - including one that has the same motor as my d33 lesabre, but not left hand, and with quite an interesting bar mount / config. I'll get some pics on soon.
 
9b01a812f3aa3764f0c6aad70e897777.jpg


Here's the one I was speaking of. Haven't looked it over at all, beyond noting the similarities to the D33 starter / engine config.
 
Craig - that is a 35, predecessor was the 33, both came before the D33 LeSabre I believe. The 33/35/39 models are gear drive with a bevel gear set in front of the engine. Not sure what the deal is with that large bright yellow cover, should be the air filter in the spot.

There were a number of attachments available for that power head including ice August, brush cuter, and a drill head.

Mark
 
Craig - that is a 35, predecessor was the 33, both came before the D33 LeSabre I believe. The 33/35/39 models are gear drive with a bevel gear set in front of the engine. Not sure what the deal is with that large bright yellow cover, should be the air filter in the spot.

There were a number of attachments available for that power head including ice August, brush cuter, and a drill head.

Mark

That's something the previous owner had milled, not sure. The D33 has the same cover ?

Does gear drive suggest that reduction sets were used on these? Or is it just 1:1?

Thanks for the heads up - I'll do my research accordingly as well.
 
Unfortunately the cylinder and piston are scored on my PM700 and, thanks to members here, I know that oversized pistons and rings were not made.
I contacted US Chrome about machining the bore and chromium plating the cylinder back to the original size.
I know from experience, with other materials, that wgen plated properly chromium maintains a very strong bond to the substrate and is incredibly hard (Roughly Rockwell 74), has a very low coefficient of friction, very good thermal transfer characteristics and is very resistant to wear.
Knock on wood we may be able to not only keep saws running for longer but also restore the original compression to the beasts.

McCulloch 200
ProMac 700
ProMac 55
Stihl MS250
Husky 235
 
That's about what I'm expecting but I justified it to myself in that I need a 70ish cc saw and a new Husky 372xp is almost $700 so I'm actually saving a few hundred bucks!

McCulloch 200
ProMac 700
ProMac 55
Stihl MS250
Husky 235
 
That's about what I'm expecting but I justified it to myself in that I need a 70ish cc saw and a new Husky 372xp is almost $700 so I'm actually saving a few hundred bucks!

McCulloch 200
ProMac 700
ProMac 55
Stihl MS250
Husky 235

If you're thinking of blowing that kind of money you should put the 700 on the shelf and start looking for an 80cc saw, like a SP850.
Then you'll have a saw that can cut some wood!
 
That's not a bad idea. I have the 80cc 200 but it's a back breaker after a couple hours.
Any interest in parting with any of your 80+ saws?

McCulloch 200
ProMac 700
ProMac 55
Stihl MS250
Husky 235
 
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