McCulloch Chain Saws

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I think I found the problem.
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My suspicion was aroused when it worked with the tank plumb full.
[emoji90]
 
Do you feel any resistance when you push the manual button?Take the cap off your oil tank & dump out any oil that might be in there.Next take a stiff wire & make a hook on the end & reach in the tank with the wire & grab onto the oil line.Take the filter,or oil pick up off the line & see if you can blow through it with some compressed air. Next put some kerosene or diesel fuel in the tank & swish it around,then dump it out..If there was a lot of dirty sludge in the tank you might want to do it again.I've found that the B&C oil is way too heavy for the oiling system.When I buy a gal.of B&C oil I take out one pint of oil & put in either one pint of kerosene or diesel fuel back into the gal.of B&C oil.See if this clears up your problem.There might've just been a plugged oil pick up.
Ed
 
That involves taking the saw apart to take the oil tank off to put a new line back on the oil barb if I'm not mistaken.If I'm wrong,someone please correct me.I had to replace an oil tank on a 610 last summer.It's a very involved process,but if you take your time it can be done without a hitch.
Ed
 
Well “take the saw apart” I guess!

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Can’t remove the top tank screws for the oil pump is in the way.

Can’t get the pump out for the screw heads.

Serious modification to the pump with a cutoff disc in my Dremel is on the menu. [emoji3517]
 
I'm trying to remember exactly how it came apart.I believe the clutch,flywheel,had to come off.I don't remember if the carb & handle assembly had to come off too.I know the ignition module had to come off too.I think you have to tear the saw down to the bare enginge to be able to take the pump off,then those 4 bolts will come out for the tank.The carry handle has to come off too.I said it was quite involved,but once you do it it's not really that bad.
Ed
 
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Remove:
Clutch cover, bar/chain.
Clutch & spur drum.
Sheet metal guard behind clutch.
Bottom skid plate.
Muffler.
Front handle.
Starter.
Remove all screws from flywheel housing.
Kill switch.
Remove oil pump screws.
Remove four tank bolts.

All that to replace a 4” length of rubber hose.

The last ass hat in this one used tygon. [emoji2959]. Abundant evidence of silicone gasket maker.
 
Yeah,as you now know,tygon doesn't hold up well in this situation.Yeah,all that to jusdt replace that hose.I had a guy tell me that whatever I do,don't use compressed air on the oil pump,it'll blow the oil line off the barb in the tank.I did remember that,but I still had to replace the tank.Now when you put it all back together use a VERY THIN coat of silicon on the tank to seal it.Make sure you scrape off all the old silicon first though.Once you have the new line in you'll be surprised how fast it all goes back together.The coil gap should be set at .012
Ed
 
Looks like an engineer was handed an oil line and asked to build a saw around it.
"Asshat" , now thats funny...literally lol
I have other words that are much more colorful.Lol I was talking with another member here & said that the engineers who worked for Homelite must've been tripping on some bad s%#*t when they designed some of their saws.Lol
 
I have other words that are much more colorful.Lol I was talking with another member here & said that the engineers who worked for Homelite must've been tripping on some bad s%#*t when they designed some of their saws.Lol
I do have to give Homelite credit for their eaze of C91g cylinder removal and installation. About a 10 minute job to R & R which beat my 2100 Husky and 044 by a bit.
 
I'm not saying that all their saws were a nightmare to work on.To name a couple off the top of my head a 150 the way you have to try to slide the engine into the housing while the carb hangs there & you hope it stays in place while you try to bolt the carb to the engine.I'd think you have to have steady hands for that,can't be out on a bender the night before.Lol Another one is the SEZ,a fun little saw to run,but you sure as hell don't want to try to remove that engine from it's case.I gave up on both those models.I'd rather work on a mini Mac.People cuss those little saws,but I don't think they're so bad.There's a guy on FB that I just want to slap because he says the mini Macs are only good for target practice & they were made to be a disposable saw.
Ed
 
I'm not saying that all their saws were a nightmare to work on.To name a couple off the top of my head a 150 the way you have to try to slide the engine into the housing while the carb hangs there & you hope it stays in place while you try to bolt the carb to the engine.I'd think you have to have steady hands for that,can't be out on a bender the night before.Lol Another one is the SEZ,a fun little saw to run,but you sure as hell don't want to try to remove that engine from it's case.I gave up on both those models.I'd rather work on a mini Mac.People cuss those little saws,but I don't think they're so bad.There's a guy on FB that I just want to slap because he says the mini Macs are only good for target practice & they were made to be a disposable saw.
Ed
Likely a ton of Homelite's other saw models were more challenging. That all said, I'm really much more of a Mac man than a Homie guy.
 
Trying to figure out my own oiler situation. Haven't gotten into it yet.. but I do know that the oil tank on my SP81E is full and the B&C is not receiving any oil. Not automatically or manually. The hole where the oil should come out is clear. Not sure about the rest... hoping it is just gunk in the pickup line or a clogged screen.

On another note, here is my custom coffee mug that came in the mail today, courtesy of Vistaprint and my own customization...

The saw logo looks a little lower quality than I would've liked.. but still turned out cool.
 

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