McCulloch Chain Saws

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If so would some have a IPL and a workshop Manual for it ?

IPL attached.

Go here for a general 10 Series shop manual that will cover most of what you'll need to know for the PM800 (which is actually a 10 Series saw.) Much of the manual will be for earlier saw versions, but much of it also still applied to the PM800 and later saws..., e.g. recoil assembly and other common components. You'll find a lot of similarity between the PM800 and the 10-10 you have listed in your sig.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxP5Bbk4lL0AQW9rcUhPcU9CUjQ/view?usp=sharing
Good luck with it. You're certainly in the right place for any help you may need.
 

Attachments

  • Pro Mac 800 June 88.pdf
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Hey guys,

Would someone be able to help me to identify this McCulloch. It says Pro Mac and then the sticker with the number is damaged.
It has great spark, obviously cannot check compression without the side cover and rewind assembly.

If so would some have a IPL and a workshop Manual for it ?

Cheers
I see some oddities on that 800 that are not correct for an 800. The exhaust loks like an 850 muffler. Also the bottom plate is that of the sp80 81 style. 800s have a flat bottom plate. It may be an 800 air filter cover on something else. It does have the decomp plugged with the big bolt. What carburetor is on it? You have lots of good parts to start with. Keep digging and youll get to the bottom of it.
 
Then there's the black tank/handle and no operator presence lever...
Probably need to also consider that it's not likely a domestic version of whatever combination of parts it is.
The air box tag would obviously tell us more..., if it has one. I'm sorta leaning toward an SP variant, too.
 
I had a friend of mine drop off 2 Eager Beaver saws today - a 2014 & a 2016.He said they'd run for a bit & make a few cuts,then they'd die.I got the 2016 running no problem,but the chain was so dull I asked him if he'd been using it to cut rocks with.I tried to sharpen it with a file,but still after 35 strokes on each cutter I can't bring it back.I thought the electronic module was the problem,but after getting it running twice I couldn't tune the saw which leads me to believe it needs crank seals.
The 2014 has no spark,so I'll take the module out of my 3216 & put it in his 2014.I told him to get both saws running it'd cost $88 just for parts.He doesn't like to spend money & is always looking for something for nothing.I told him I could try to make one good running saw out of the 2 & he could keep the non-runner for parts,he felt better about that.
 
Believe you have a cobbled together 82cc MAC ten series not a 1010. Lid, engine and clutch cover remains are late model. The muffler and tank/handle are old model. Hope you can resurrect it.

Ron

If this was a state side saw then: the lid is from a PM 800; the engine is either a PM800, a PM805, a Super PM850, a DE80 or a PM8200 (if it is not drilled for the DSP port then the list narrows to an earlier PM800 or a PM8200 (or possibly a Super PM850 which is so rare here I don't know whether they were drilled or not)); the tank/handle with no operator's presence lever and black switch, skid plate, and steel front handle indicate an older SP with a PM800 or later oiler knob; the clutch cover is PM800 or later; the muffler is a PM850 or earlier SP; the cowling is a PM850 or earlier SP; and the likely reason it has no recoil cover is the shaft is different on the PM800 and newer saws which fits the newer 18 fin flywheel that this saw is sporting.

Ron
 
Then there's the black tank/handle and no operator presence lever...
Probably need to also consider that it's not likely a domestic version of whatever combination of parts it is.
The air box tag would obviously tell us more..., if it has one. I'm sorta leaning toward an SP variant, too.
Hi Mate,

Air box tag ? Where am I going to find that ?

I will check the carby as well and let everyone know what it is as well.

Cheers

Justin
 
Hi Mate,

Air box tag ? Where am I going to find that ?

I will check the carby as well and let everyone know what it is as well.

Cheers

Justin
It will be under the air filter cover. Directly in front of the stop switch. Held on by 2 small rivets. Silver plate with model number and serial number stamped on it. A lot of saws seem to be missing them so it may be gone. You want the model number...it will start with a 6000....

The carburetor will have several numbers on it and letters. What we are asking for is a brand and model. So you will likely see walbro on it. SDC also and some numbers. The number we are asking for is gonna be on the side facing the sto switch near the top left corner if its a walbro sdc carb. Like, 37, 38A, 44 or 44a, etc.

If its a zama carb then its a C2.
 
It will be under the air filter cover. Directly in front of the stop switch. Held on by 2 small rivets. Silver plate with model number and serial number stamped on it. A lot of saws seem to be missing them so it may be gone. You want the model number...it will start with a 6000....

The carburetor will have several numbers on it and letters. What we are asking for is a brand and model. So you will likely see walbro on it. SDC also and some numbers. The number we are asking for is gonna be on the side facing the sto switch near the top left corner if its a walbro sdc carb. Like, 37, 38A, 44 or 44a, etc.

If its a zama carb then its a C2.
I know i can see ZAMA on the back of the carby closest to the fuel tank.
 

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  • 20200529_194447.jpg
    20200529_194447.jpg
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Yes its a zama C2. Carburetor. C2 is the carb model

I also see the model tag is gone. Hmmmm
I noticed that also. I also cant tell if the DCV hole is there and open or if is plugged or not there. Someone mentioned a PM8200 block not having a DCV but the ones I have seen are bolted, but the threaded hole is still there. This could be a "patches" saw, pieced together. Regardless, is she's got good compression she can be made a running pretty easy. I like to see these old girls rescued and restored!
 
The decomp hole is there. It has the bolt in it. Its not a de80. Ive just not seen an 800 with that bottom and black tank. Im leaning to a frankensaw too. 800 carb, air filter cover, likely 800 block. But other saw parts for body. Its fun trying to figure it all out though. Everyone steps up for that challenge!
 
The 10 Series Shop Manual and SP80 General Service Information that Poge posted above will be the best available for the Pro Mac 850.

Here is an IPL for the PM850 model.

Mark


so, mcculloch don't have a shop manual for the pro mac 850?
 
The one provide above is the one specified for the PM850.
They're all basically the same saw except for the stickers and displacement. If you spend some time getting familiar with the material that has been provided, you'll quickly see the main difference among the 10 series saws (aside from their displacement) is the anti-vibe feature of the later models. The more subtle differences are a knowledge base one eventually acquires from comparing the various IPL's and how they relate to the general 10 Series manuals and supplements..., or from working on a lot of different 10 Series saws, of course. There is a learning curve involved, but once you become familiar with one model, you'll be familiar with most of them.
 
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