MS 180-c Damage to case from clutch drum, bar oil leaking from crack how to repair the plastic?

[trains]

Hi Chaps.
Got an MS180-c, pre flippy caps on the weekend, bar not oiling.
Had a look at the basics, oil was coming out from the clutch area side, not where the oil line usually leaks under the case.
Took the clutch off.
Could see where there was damage, I assume from the clutch drum rubbing against the housing from a collapsed bearing most likely, and it had worn away the plastic near where the oil pump is pressed into the case.

Oil was leaking out of a .5mm hole and then weeping out past a previous repair of what looks like araldite expoxy that was smeared along 1/3 of the round housing area to try and seal it.
It wasn't working.

This glue repair was easily removed in a whole lump, as it had not bonded with the plastic, no idea if it was just because of poor prep, or if the plastic just wont accept any type of adhesive.

So, what can I use to repair the leak, I was thinking of using some 80 grit, clean the plastic around the hole with solvent, then gently abrade the plastic to give a better surface to bond to, and either apply some yamabond, or some Knead it plastic 2 part epoxy from Selleys / Loctite.

Is this plastic used in the case able to be glued or do I have to try and cut some plastic off somewhere else, and try to plastic weld a patch over the hole, its right on the edge of the round part in the housing, and there is very little material left there.

Sorry, no pics yet, but can try tomorrow.

Appreciate your help in this matter.

Trains

 

[HarleyT]

Likely molten plastic from and overheated saw from the brake engaged.

 

[HarleyT]

New cases are cheap.

 

[trains]

New cases are cheap.

Hi HarleyT,
Thanks for the replies, at this point in time, a new case is not an option.
Also could have been caused by the drum not seating on the oil pump wire, and it cutting into the case.

Any suggestions on a repair to a pin hole that leaks bar oil would be appreciated.

Trains
Off to fix a 35 year old flooding briggs n stratt motor on a grain auger.

 

[Old2stroke]

You have the right idea about how to prepare the surface and the repair should work. Do NOT use any quick set epoxys, they are the garbage of the epoxy industry. use only a thick, 2 part paste that you squeeze out of tubes and takes overnight to cure. Around here the brand that is easy to find is J.B. WELD. Hysol also makes some good industrial epoxys but they are hard to find. Good luck.

 

[HarleyT]

Hi HarleyT,
Thanks for the replies, at this point in time, a new case is not an option.
Also could have been caused by the drum not seating on the oil pump wire, and it cutting into the case.

Any suggestions on a repair to a pin hole that leaks bar oil would be appreciated.

Trains
Off to fix a 35 year old flooding briggs n stratt motor on a grain auger.

Not likely.
Put up some pics.
No flippy caps on the ms170/180

 

[trains]

Hi HarleyT
Didnt realise they kept the screw in caps, I assumed they just put them in the entire range when they started.

Ok, will try and load pics, hole is down at 0500 location of the drum recess.

T

 

[trains]

New cases are cheap.

Whilst getting a new starter rope for it, I asked for the price of one, $150 ish.

T
edited for typos

 

[HarleyT]

Wow! Full retail for OEm is $67ish over here, I sold them on e-bay for $40ish...
Haven't here lately, China crap flooded the market.

 

[trains]

Yeah, things in Country Aust can be a bit pricey at times.
So, about to cut some housing, and try a plastic weld with small soldering iron, or at least clean up the area ready for doing so.

Failing that, will try some Permaweld 2 tube epoxy from master, thats the only thing on the auto parts shelf that says its resistant to oils and fuels.

Anyone with experience with the master permaweld, I can only assume its similar to jb weld, that dosent appear to be available here.

T

 

[HarleyT]

Can you indicate where this oil is leaking at? Your case doesn't look that bad.

 

[trains]

Can you indicate where this oil is leaking at? Your case doesn't look that bad.

Little dark dot at 5 o clock near the edge of the round just above the left of the rib if that makes sence.

Ps, I cut some slithers (3mm wide, 10ishmm long x 1mm thick) of plastic off the chain cover, and then used a soldering iron to weld the slithers into the hole, then over the top, will attach some pics later, dinner time, shower the kids, dishes, and bed time to deal with now.
pump finally primed up, no leaks, cut a bit, then sharpened the chain, went back to cutting, and the oil has stopped again, but no leak from the repair, or hose, I hope its just an air pocket, and it will move thru and will check tomorrow.

T

 

[HarleyT]

If you mean here{red circle}, that is @ the bottom of the oil pump, and the top of the oil pump is of course {blue circle}.
The bottom of the pump is the suction area that the oil line snaps into, so wouldn't have pressure.

 

[trains]

Yep, hole was just on the bottom of the red circle line you drew, you can see where I built up the plastic over that spot that you have the red circle on now, oil was leaking out and pooling at the bottom, and then leaking out onto its base, no oil getting to the bar.
Will take the handle off, and remove the pickup line, remove from tank, and check filter, and the base of the pump for blockage, then hit it with some cleaner, and of course check the alignment of the pump, to make sure its not moved in its housing. I assume the filter and hose to the pump is ok, as it was leaking from the suction area, so oil was getting out of the tank .

Anyway, the soldering iron plastic weld went better than expected, made sure I just softened, and didnt overheat the plastic, cleaned the tip of the iron after each run, it discoloured when I tried to flatten and smooth the area over. Having cleaned the area with solvent, then filed the area to a clean colour past the discoloured plastic, and then using acetone to clean it before welding, it went well.

hope that this might help others.

T

 

[HarleyT]

I would leave the pump in place. Extremely unlikely that it moved, it is pressed in pretty tight.

 

[trains]

I would leave the pump in place. Extremely unlikely that it moved, it is pressed in pretty tight.

Yep, I thought it prudent to check its alignment when the oil line is removed from the base of the case, if its ok, im leaving well enough alone .
Thanks for your input HarleyT, appreciate it.

T

 

[HarleyT]

The pump is set at a certain depth, and a certain rotational alignment...

 

[trains]

The pump is set at a certain depth, and a certain rotational alignment...

Yep, 8mm depth, and the intake slot is marked on the case.

T

 

[trains]

Just as an update.

The new oil pump pickup hose and filter arrived.
Took the handle off the AV rubbers, cleaned the area around the hose, and removed hose, someone had shortened the original pickup hose, it was not even half the length of the new one.
anyway, looked at the oil pump, and it had moved almost 1/4 of a turn in the body, thus no way it was delivering any oil to the oil gallery towards the bar.

Ok now how to remove and refit in the correct orientation.

Had a look thru my assortment of screws and came across a masonary bolt, the type that as you tighten, it draws the bulb end thru the metal body expanding the arms into the hole, thus anchoring the bolt to the wall.
Perfect thread, and long enough to put a set of vice grips to the end.

Just a simple manner of levering the vice grips against the body of the saw, and up it came, just like the Stihl tool concept, but each few mm, you had to put something under the vice grips to keep the pull straight.

Oil pump out, cleaned, inspected, galleries blown out, and then refitted in correct way to 8mm depth, just gently tapped the end of the bolt with a small hammer.
Put new hose in and reassemble.

works just as it should.

Wishing you all a safe and special Christmas.

T

 

[a. palmer jr.]

On plastic welding I've found that it's a good idea to use like plastic to fill holes/cracks. Either find another junk case or find a place on your case to trim a little plastic from that won't weaken it. Other plastics might have different compounds and might not melt together well.