New chain for Stihl 261 questions

[NYresq]

Long time reader, and student of the arborist site, and normally find my answers already posted, but I searched for this one and couldn't find a clue, so here goes.

I have a 261 with the standard sprocket and a 20" green bar. standard 325 chain. I need to replace a couple chains that are a few years old and have been sharpened at least five or six times. The have stretched enough that they are taking a good bit of the adjuster to tighten them up, and the rakers are not exactly "even" anymore, so I guess its time to splurge on new chains.
Here are my questions.

1. I am looking to pick up a larger saw in the near future that will be running a .050 3/8 chain. Would it be worth it to change the sprocket and bar on my 261 to have a common bar and chain across my fleet? I may or may not keep the 261 depending on how big a saw I get. Probably looking at a new 60 or 70cc. If I get a 60, I would probably sell the 261... The 70, I may keep it for smaller quick stuff

2. Brand wise, who is making good chain these days? Is the stihl factory chain still a good bang for the buck?

3. Will a stock 261 pull a full skip chain on a 20" bar? My saw runs pretty strong with the 325 size chains, and the oiler supplies plenty on the 20" bar, but if I change it to a .050 chain, could I use a full skip? or would I be limited to only using a half skip chain on a 20" bar? or would I even have to move down to a 16" bar to pull that chain without issues.

4. Best brand for an all around 20" bar? I know this is like asking ford vs chevy, but I don't need a super lightweight tsumara bar or anything special like that.
Is the Stihl ES the goto bar? or is the standard Stihl E bar the better option for a smaller sized stihl in the 20" category


Thanks for any advice, I have learned a ton over the years lurking and reading on this site, its my go to place whenever I have a question!

 

[Andyshine77]

You have a Stihl saw, all of the cutting attachments Stihl offers is at the top, if not the outright best available, so I'd stick with Stihl bars, and the chain is the best IMHO

Running skip tooth chain on a 20" bar offers no benefit and will actually cause the saw to be rough and grabby.

You could switch out the .325" bar, sprocket and chain for 3/8 chain, the saw will run it fine. Honestly though I like .325"

The best two saw plan in my book is a good 50cc and 70cc saw, that is a sweet setup.

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

I went through the same thing. Figured all my other saws run 3/8 .050, might as well swap the 261 to it...

But what am I really saving here? Having 1 different sized file vs 2. I already have all the sharpening stuff for the .325 anyway...I don't spin up my own loops, so it's not helping me save money on chain...

I left my 261 running 325 chain.

Now, if I were going through chain a lot faster and buying it in spools and making my own loops...then I would probably switch. That would be my deciding factor.

 

[NYresq]

Thanks for the replies!
There is plenty of life left in the bar I have, so I'll just keep it simple and get another couple stock chains.

 

[LonestarStihl]

You could always change it to 3/8 real easy and run an 18” bar. How long a bar do you plan to go on the next saw? I believe some folks have done trials and found after 25” the .050 won’t oil as well as the .063 gauge. Not saying either is bad but if you plan to go longer you may look at the .063 for better bar oiling. If you want them the same pitch I’d say go for it and maybe just a slightly shorter bar for the 261. It’s nice that way you can swap them back and forth of the situation arose.

 

[NYresq]

The max size I would want to use on any of my saws is a 25". If I need bigger than a 25" bar, my brother has a 661 I can use anytime I need it, but that's rare. To be honest, I have been using chainsaws for 30+ years and never had a problem, but that 661 saw is way overkill for 99% of what I ever need it for. The power and speed in the 661 with a 25" bar is scary...

If I get a 362, it would probably wear a 20" 90% of the time and have a 25" hanging in the shed for the rare occasion I really need that much bar. Some will say the 25" is stretching the limits for the oiler on the 362, but it would be limited use and when the warranty ran out I would do the 462 oiler parts swap. I'd maybe also have a 16" if I wanted to have a smaller compact package for something specific.

I have been leaning towards selling the 261 and just having a 362 for all around, vs. keeping the 261 and also buying a 441 or 462 with just a 25" bar for bigger stuff.

 

[Gypo Logger]

It’s a PITA to have different pitches,gauges and bars unless you’re one of those really organized guys.
I prefer everything in 050 3/8 but that rarely ends up happening. You can also change your 325 tips and sprockets to 3/8 pictch instead of buying all new bars, unless you’re inclined that way, because one can never have too much chain , sprockets and bars.

 

[BangBang77]

I've been down the rabbit hole on standardization of chain size across my range of saws. My FIL had his 026 set up with 3/8" x .050" and my first 261cm came with 0.325" x 0.063". I swapped the 261 out to a 16" x 3/8" x 0.050" set up, which works well for bucking and firewood but sucks for limbing and clearing brush - I ran it this way for a while and even do every now and then when I am cutting smaller firewood, but I much prefer the 0.325 on my 026 and 261 saws. I have 3/8" on my 60cc and larger saws.

I have 2 file sizes for my saws (well 3 if you consider the 1/4" on the pole saw). Surely I can differentiate between the two when sharpening...

 

[John Lyngdal]

I run a 16" bar with a .325" chain on my 026/26X saws with a 8 pin, but a 20" with a stock 7 pin should be just fine if you don't lean into it.
I would recommend the Stihl 26RS81 chain for your replacement. I think they cut better than the RM3 style.
There are guides to file the rakers evenly and a good commercial shop with grind them when sharpening the cutters.

 

[Mad Professor]

The bigger saw should still have the 3003 mount bar. If you are thinking only 20", try swapping that in with a 3/8 rim and see how it cuts.

The sweet spot for the 50cc stihls is .325 chain and 16-18" bars........

 

[John Lyngdal]

I don't think the .325 bar tip sprocket will be happy with a .375 chain, but then again I've never tried it.

 

[LonestarStihl]

I don't think the .325 bar tip sprocket will be happy with a .375 chain, but then again I've never tried it.

Accidentally done that before on my first saw. Couldn’t figure out why the teeth didn’t sit right in the nose but ran it anyways. Not saying it should be done but I personally never had an issue. They seat on the nose but not all the way

 

[BangBang77]

.325" chain = .325" drive sprocket = .325" bar tip sprocket

3/8" chain = 3/8" drive sprocket = 3/8" bar tip sprocket

The two sizes are not cross-compatible in any way, shape, form, or fashion. You CAN swap the bar tip out on RSN bars from .325" to 3/8" and vice-versa as long as the chain gauge is the same. But the standard green bar that the OP has is .325" and cannot (easily) be swapped over to 3/8".

 

[cedarhollow]

ive got same setup and run rs chain .325 063. it cuts like a beast. doesnt slow down for anything when fully buried in hickory and locust.