Ported Poulan Pro Pole Pruner

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Chris-PA

Where the Wild Things Are
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I really didn't mean to port it, it just kinda happened. And it's only a little bit modified! I had it on the bench waiting for the new intake boot ( http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/poulan-pro-pp338pt-check-your-boots.234456/ ), and I decided to pull the muffler and check out the cylinder. There were several stripes on the cylinder wall that looked worrisome, and I checked on line to find that a new cylinder cost $17 - so I pulled off the old one to see how bad it was. It turned out to be pretty much nothing, only one minor one could be felt at all, and that was down by the transfers.

And since everything was covered with snow this morning, I did measure the timing before I took it apart. :rolleyes:

Duration/angle from TDC:
E = 142/109
I = 145/72.5
I(Strato) = 152/76
T = 107/126.5
BD = 17.5
Case Compression = 54

The exhaust port width was only 43% of the bore - really tiny!

So what to do with it? It has always run quite well and I didn't want to do anything radical to it, so I decided to leave the timing alone, even with the large case compression angle. So I widened the exhaust port to 50% of the bore.

However, I noticed something strange on the strato ports. While the duration of the strato inlets was 152deg when the piston notch opens to the ports on the intake face, the transfers were still mostly blocked by the plastic inserts they use to create closed transfers. These don't fit that tight to the piston (the ring does not hit them), but that still forms a narrow slot.

Here is the intake configuration:
002-800.jpg
The piston isn't visible in this shot, but before the lower edge of the piston opens into the case on the lower intake, the slots in the piston open into those upper ports. The slots are almost straight on the upper edge:
005-800.jpg
There's a good 2.5mm until the piston slot clears the lower edge of the plastic insert and it can flow into the transfer runner. Here are the inserts:
008-800.jpg
They got smoothed a bit, and the upper edge got cut back to allow the strato ports to flow:
009-800.jpg
Here is a shot of the modified insert installed - it is harder to see than I hoped, but the lower edge of the transfer outlet is now even with the strato air inlet:
014-800.jpg

This shot shows the inserts and the transfer runner that is formed between them and the casting:
024-800.jpg
 
Naturally it needed a muffler mod, but again not too extreme as I use it as a string trimmer and I don't want it too loud. I drilled through the back, and the internal baffle and into the outlet area with a 3/8" bit. So that added an additional 3/8" passage to the outlet. I forgot to take a finished shot of the cover, but it's the SS panel you can see off to the side:

018-800.jpg
017-800.jpg

I did not modify the outlet too much yet, but I was able to flare it a fair amount.
015-800.jpg

Here's a shot of it going back together with the new strato intake boot that arrived while I was working on it:
025-800.jpg

It started up and ran, and seemed to have an attitude. It will be a while until I can run the pole saw, and I don't imagine string trimming will be high on my agenda for a bit.....
 
So what holds the tranfer panels in position vertiacly?
Is it strictly compression between the bearing coatings and the top of the port, of the cylinder?
or any interference fit (squeeze) in the sides? i.e. radially.
I see the steps in the sides that look like the insert has to slipped in from the bearing radius of the casting.
Just curious as to how much vertical play there may or may not be and what controls it.

I have one of the trimmers here. Was a dispaly unit, never seen fuel, but a bit banged up from falling off the dispaly. That idea of grabbing one of thalst, full crankshaft types, was why I picked it up.
That strato tube is stiff as a preacher's ###### but no cracking yet.
Some nasty looking flash in the intake ports though and a stray piece (not a whole one) of a cap gasket piece
that was laying lose in the bottom area. So it will be tron down and checked plus the ports cleaned, before I'll ever fire it up.
 
So what holds the tranfer panels in position vertiacly?
Is it strictly compression between the bearing coatings and the top of the port, of the cylinder?
or any interference fit (squeeze) in the sides? i.e. radially.
I see the steps in the sides that look like the insert has to slipped in from the bearing radius of the casting.
Just curious as to how much vertical play there may or may not be and what controls it.

I have one of the trimmers here. Was a dispaly unit, never seen fuel, but a bit banged up from falling off the dispaly. That idea of grabbing one of thalst, full crankshaft types, was why I picked it up.
That strato tube is stiff as a preacher's ###### but no cracking yet.
Some nasty looking flash in the intake ports though and a stray piece (not a whole one) of a cap gasket piece
that was laying lose in the bottom area. So it will be tron down and checked plus the ports cleaned, before I'll ever fire it up.
The inserts are wedged in by the bearings (on this one the bearings are not rubber coated). I could not see any play, but of course I can't easily get in there once it's bolted together!

I forgot to mention that the intake ports all had a small ridge of casting flash, and all the port edges were razor sharp. I deburred them with a small file and ran the patented Wiggles Hone (an eye bolt with a strip of ScotchBrite in a drill) through the cylinder. Things were much smoother afterwards, and the intake timing was no longer messed up by the flashing.

Near as I could tell this is an unplated bore and a chromed piston, but I'm not 100% sure on that. And it is actually 33cc, not 42!
 
I did try to get a shot of the exhaust port but I could not get a good focus - this was the best one I got:
020-800.jpg
 
Hmmm, an un-plated bore could answer the $17.00 question, of why so low.
Does the piston seem hard crusted?
How does the rod end compare to the 42cc engines?
Betting you can geuss where my mind is headed!

yeah, yeah, yeah. weak link in the shaft or the gearhead or.....
It's Sat nt and i'm broke and I've read nearly everything interesting on the whole flippin interweb.
So some goofy hybreds from what might by lying around, just sound intersting.
Oh and something broke my spellchacker a few days ago.
But about half of my most used add-ons for Firfox didn't get carried over to the latest version
So i'm just not willing to ditch this browser yet.
 
What do they use for the drive in the pole Chris? Spring steel?
 
Hmmm, an un-plated bore could answer the $17.00 question, of why so low.
Does the piston seem hard crusted?
How does the rod end compare to the 42cc engines?
Betting you can geuss where my mind is headed!

yeah, yeah, yeah. weak link in the shaft or the gearhead or.....
It's Sat nt and i'm broke and I've read nearly everything interesting on the whole flippin interweb.
So some goofy hybreds from what might by lying around, just sound intersting.
Oh and something broke my spellchacker a few days ago.
But about half of my most used add-ons for Firfox didn't get carried over to the latest version
So i'm just not willing to ditch this browser yet.

Yes, the piston seems plated. The crank/rod/bearings seem quite different from the 42cc models, so I think it'd be a challenge to mix and match.

And I hate it when something messes up my FireFox profile!

What do they use for the drive in the pole Chris? Spring steel?
It looks like a square-section cable - like someone too a steel cable and ran it through a press.
 
Oh, and another thing I forgot to mention - this clamshell uses seals that fit into slots cast into the cylinder, rather than liquid sealant. I was so tempted to add a skim of Yamabond, but I didn't!
004-800.jpg
 
Dontcha just love the mess those tri-lobe screws create/leave.
They have their place but are not my favorite. They are supposed to be thread forming, not thread cutting. Years ago I specified them on a product where we could not have metal chips from a thread cutting screw. They worked fine for me, but on the production line many of the ladies would not put any downward force on the power screwdrivers, and those things have a lot of start up torque. They'd hit the trigger with no pressure and the screws would just grind out a cone of aluminum before the screw would grab and pull in.

You're a pisser Chris.

Keep up the good work. Like Tim the Toolman, supe everything up.

I love it. Only on this forum.
LOL - I can stop any time I want!
 
Naturally it needed a muffler mod, but again not too extreme as I use it as a string trimmer and I don't want it too loud. I drilled through the back, and the internal baffle and into the outlet area with a 3/8" bit. So that added an additional 3/8" passage to the outlet. I forgot to take a finished shot of the cover, but it's the SS panel you can see off to the side:

View attachment 413780
View attachment 413779

I did not modify the outlet too much yet, but I was able to flare it a fair amount.
View attachment 413778

Here's a shot of it going back together with the new strato intake boot that arrived while I was working on it:
View attachment 413782

It started up and ran, and seemed to have an attitude. It will be a while until I can run the pole saw, and I don't imagine string trimming will be high on my agenda for a bit.....
Do the plastic inserts help hold the rist pin in?
 
Naturally it needed a muffler mod, but again not too extreme as I use it as a string trimmer and I don't want it too loud. I drilled through the back, and the internal baffle and into the outlet area with a 3/8" bit. So that added an additional 3/8" passage to the outlet. I forgot to take a finished shot of the cover, but it's the SS panel you can see off to the side:

View attachment 413780
View attachment 413779

I did not modify the outlet too much yet, but I was able to flare it a fair amount.
View attachment 413778

Here's a shot of it going back together with the new strato intake boot that arrived while I was working on it:
View attachment 413782

It started up and ran, and seemed to have an attitude. It will be a while until I can run the pole saw, and I don't imagine string trimming will be high on my agenda for a bit.....
Where is the vid of it rappin out? Cmon man can hold out on us with a lil engine
 
Do the plastic inserts help hold the rist pin in?
No, they just close off the open transfer slots, making them closed. The wrist pin is held in with clips as usual.

Where is the vid of it rappin out? Cmon man can hold out on us with a lil engine
Eventually I'll get a video of it pulling a 16" bar with fill skip lo pro - I actually have that set up and have used it before!
 
Chris: First chance you have, go scoop your hand full of the tri-lobes
that you've speced.
This is a sampling from the ones I removed from the pp330 head.
The blank was upset formed, as a tri-lobe
but the threading operation is still being run as if it has a round shank.
[ Notice the thread peaks ]
myself, I wouldn't want to try counting all of the screw machines
that will need up-fitting for a cammed thread rolling function.
are your eyes rolled backwards at thinking of the balking operators
when told their machines will take 1.903 seconds longer to plunk out a paid part.
Or the emaintaince dept crew grumblings.
ah yes and that assumes the ownership will toss the financing in for it.
Hmm, Amortization over xxx many million fastners? No sweat I'll bet they
[ Dont ] say to ya!
Lets not forget the (.03 cent difference?) rear door latch post debacle that bit Chrysler in the
uhm....rear.

Then take a look at that atrocious surface finish.
Etched in the cleaning process and then an oxide finnish is chosen.
But i'll shaddup for now
As I'm waaaaay of topic and also probably boring anyone still reading

edit: and good golly, wouldja look at all the stray fibers, from that corrugated boardstock.
 

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Chris: First chance you have, go scoop your hand full of the tri-lobes
that you've speced.
This is a sampling from the ones I removed from the pp330 head.
The blank was upset formed, as a tri-lobe
but the threading operation is still being run as if it has a round shank.
[ Notice the thread peaks ]
myself, I wouldn't want to try counting all of the screw machines
that will need up-fitting for a cammed thread rolling function.
are your eyes rolled backwards at thinking of the balking operators
when told their machines will take 1.903 seconds longer to plunk out a paid part.
Or the emaintaince dept crew grumblings.
ah yes and that assumes the ownership will toss the financing in for it.
Hmm, Amortization over xxx many million fastners? No sweat I'll bet they
[ Dont ] say to ya!
Lets not forget the (.03 cent difference?) rear door latch post debacle that bit Chrysler in the
uhm....rear.

Then take a look at that atrocious surface finish.
Etched in the cleaning process and then an oxide finnish is chosen.
But i'll shaddup for now
As I'm waaaaay of topic and also probably boring anyone still reading

edit: and good golly, wouldja look at all the stray fibers, from that corrugated boardstock.
LOL - the ones I used were smaller (#6-32) and did not have that surface finish. Their threads might not have been the best but that was not the issue. I have replaced some of the tri-lobe screws in various Poulans with real machine screws when I wanted to use LocTite. The tri-lobe screws are not great for multiple assembly/disassembly use.
 
I realized I had a better shot showing how the plastic insert forms the transfer runner:
012-800.jpg
 

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