I did not build the saw that failed, not sure why you’re getting “cryptic” vibes from.
I was trying to use the saw and it ran for about 20 min and failed.
Rebuilding failed 660
- Thread starter Frisian
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I was trying to use the saw and it ran for about 20 min and failed.
Running this saw makes you appreciate the lumberjack’s of the time that made living running those machines.
Not having rubber buffers transfers all the vibrations to your hands.
Besides the vibration it does milling well.
Short timer
Wish you'd stop being so good to me captain
The saw was assembled by someone else when I got it. Hope this clarifies.
Short timer
Wish you'd stop being so good to me captain
This thread will upset you then that you paid what you did for it.
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...t-them-epacket-from-china.346967/post-7406886
For that price I would buy another one. Looks like deal is gone though.
drf255
BAD CAD
They are set at an excellent price point, but someone who rarely cuts wood would rarely need a 90cc saw. And if needed for occasional emergency use, like to clear access to property, I am certain that reliability would be an issue to the end user.
They need a list of OEM parts to insure some level of reliability. Generally, it’s the pin bearing, the intake boot clamp, the decomp valve and the chain adjuster. Cranks seem to be OK, as do the bearings if you knock out the seals and clean all the metal dust out.
You didn’t show a pic of the carb throttle butterfly..... They forgot to put a notch where the idle and transition feed holes are, so they don’t run right. If you add a small notch they will actually run OK.
In the end, the extra time/work/parts puts them at a price point close to good used oem. The end user also needs to have at least moderately complex saw building experience to get a decent end result. Everything has its use and you get what you pay for. I agree that not everyone needs a $1000 pro saw, but I am in the “buy once buy right” camp when it comes to tools.
They need a list of OEM parts to insure some level of reliability. Generally, it’s the pin bearing, the intake boot clamp, the decomp valve and the chain adjuster. Cranks seem to be OK, as do the bearings if you knock out the seals and clean all the metal dust out.
You didn’t show a pic of the carb throttle butterfly..... They forgot to put a notch where the idle and transition feed holes are, so they don’t run right. If you add a small notch they will actually run OK.
In the end, the extra time/work/parts puts them at a price point close to good used oem. The end user also needs to have at least moderately complex saw building experience to get a decent end result. Everything has its use and you get what you pay for. I agree that not everyone needs a $1000 pro saw, but I am in the “buy once buy right” camp when it comes to tools.
WI_Hedgehog
You bought a WHAT???!!
arto_wa
ArboristSite Operative
You speak like someone with lot of (bitter or disappointing?) personal experience with knock off saws.
I have only assembled one MS660 kit after having watched couple of videos of guys who have built many saws, and have nothing bad to say on the contrary.
Would you please tell us more, like how many "knock-off" saws have you assembled or have used?
WI_Hedgehog
You bought a WHAT???!!
I'm not in favor of someone copying someone else's hard work; that's dishonest, puts creative/inventive people out of work, and everyone suffers because of it. It's simply a matter of integrity.
What about Husky/Stihl’s forced “group sharing” of M-tronic/Autotune tech, or the Stihl HT73 that is just a rebranded Husky? (The HT73 is a sore point as I was ordering a few parts from Stihl for mine and was told they were “back ordered”. 3 months after I ordered them I still hadn’t from the dealer. At the 4 month mark I was grouching about their being back ordered for months to my Husky dealer and he went, “Stihl HT73? That’s a rebranded Husky, I can get you parts for it.” Sure enough, he even had the parts I needed in stock. I still haven’t heard back from Stihl and it’s going on a year, now.)
WI_Hedgehog
You bought a WHAT???!!
I was reading Husqvarna voluntarily licensed the electronic ignition design to Stihl because they were in fear of monopoly regulations and that was a preemptive way around it. Stihl obviously took them up on the offer, so it is what it is.
I have an HT-KM Kombi saw head attachment, so maybe don't understand the issue with them rebranding Husky's pole saw. If it's a good unit it's a good unit, right? It's not like Toyota's Supra being a rebranded BMW Z4 which is really BMW's "German re-imagined" Nissan 370Z, right? I mean in that case you're better off just buying the 370Z which is actually a quality car, something Nissan isn't exactly otherwise known for, unlike Toyota that is known for making high quality vehicles. In the Stihl case you can depend on the rebranded pole trimmer to keep running well, but in the Toyota-actually-BMW case you might not be expecting the repair bills that come with owning a BMW!
I'm not saying Stihl is all-perfect and without fault, they've made some bone-headed decisions too, some of which I've had to deal with, but by-and-large I'm pretty happy with their products, and they generally do run well and are reliable. (I'm certainly not without fault in the bone-headed decision department, there's enough of my mistakes around to prevent any shortage in there...)
Hyway makes good quality parts from what I read.
I am thinking about getting their 56mm pop-up kit, oil seals, needle bearing and decomp valve (or just delete the valve). They also make viton rubber manifold.
I hear you about the boot clamp, it appears to be badly formed and will eventually cut into boot under vibration.
I believe the butterfly notch is present, but I will d-check later.
For what it's worth I have built a number of kit saws, and while I agree they aren't quite as good as the real deal they have performed well each time I have needed them.
My 440 kit's have several dozen gallons of fuel through them & perform fine, two are still in use 2 years later for a professional logging company as "junker saws" Ie; the ones that get beat on the most in the mud & water, & he compliments them each time I ask about them.
My 372 kit's required some work to get sorted, but nothing outstanding.
I recently got a 660 clone & a real OEM minty 660, and they run very compareably, both easy to start & cut about the same.
I don't have much time on either yet, but the clone has milled up over 200 board feet of ash & cherry without a single issue, saving wear and tear from my genuine 661/660/394.
My 394 has milled probably 6x that. My 661 less, but still quite a bit, i tend to swap them out.
Enough to offset it's $$ buy in, parts & shipping combined?
Not yet, but combined with a knock off alaskian mill, 42" Oregon bar, 4 135 driver carlton ripping chains, modded OEM oiler, and complete saw kit I have less than 1k in an entire back up mill.
I can't hire a local company with a portable bandsaw mill to cut what I need cut for that, nor can I buy the lumber I'm cutting for that. So if it lasts through this project & every part blows up I'll still come out ahead
My 440 kit's have several dozen gallons of fuel through them & perform fine, two are still in use 2 years later for a professional logging company as "junker saws" Ie; the ones that get beat on the most in the mud & water, & he compliments them each time I ask about them.
My 372 kit's required some work to get sorted, but nothing outstanding.
I recently got a 660 clone & a real OEM minty 660, and they run very compareably, both easy to start & cut about the same.
I don't have much time on either yet, but the clone has milled up over 200 board feet of ash & cherry without a single issue, saving wear and tear from my genuine 661/660/394.
My 394 has milled probably 6x that. My 661 less, but still quite a bit, i tend to swap them out.
Enough to offset it's $$ buy in, parts & shipping combined?
Not yet, but combined with a knock off alaskian mill, 42" Oregon bar, 4 135 driver carlton ripping chains, modded OEM oiler, and complete saw kit I have less than 1k in an entire back up mill.
I can't hire a local company with a portable bandsaw mill to cut what I need cut for that, nor can I buy the lumber I'm cutting for that. So if it lasts through this project & every part blows up I'll still come out ahead
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