Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[edju1958]

Hi guys,I'm having no spark issues with my Super 754.I've taken the points out & cleaned them & set the gap at .020.I put 3 different condensers in it & changed the flywheel too.I've checked to make sure that the wires are on it properly & not being grounded out.I eliminated the switch & the switch lead entirely,& still I have no spark.I did have spark for one pull,then nothing.I'm beginning to think a possible bad coil or improper air gap.How do I check the air gap on the flywheel,or even reset it if need be?
Ed

 

[Marine-piper]

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...c1b326816e2671c688256d370082aca1?OpenDocument
Hopefully this will give you some #'s

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Since you've mentioned vision problems before Ed , there are 2 hash marks on the case that the 2 points of the coil have to be aligned with. Might be easier too see in a picture.

 

[67L36Driver]

Since you've mentioned vision problems before Ed , there are 2 hash marks on the case that the 2 points of the coil have to be aligned with. Might be easier too see in a picture. View attachment 823965

Looks to be a Wico magneto. Should be easy to find a good coil for them.

Unlike the Logmaster coils. [emoji37]

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Looks to be a Wico magneto. Should be easy to find a good coil for them.

Unlike the Logmaster coils. [emoji37]

Thats a picture of my 754 , not Eds but Chainsawr did have one posted on his site.

 

[edju1958]

I've checked those marks & they're spot on.I tried a different set of points earlier thinking that might be an easy fix,but still no spark.I did get another coil,points,& condenser for the saw from a running 754 (supposedly) that was on Feebay for $21.I supposed that's my last ditch effort on this saw.
Ed

 

[edju1958]

The part #'s for Remington can be a bit confusing.I have a pic of 2 different clutch assemblies for the SL9.The one on the right came off an older SL9 that fossil gave me a couple of yrs.ago.The one on the left is one I put together from 2 different sources,the shoes & springs came from a seller on Feebay that I got for $8,the spider came from Parrish Implements in Ky.for $15,so I got a new clutch for $23 which I didn't think was too bad.The part #'s for the old & new clutch parts are the same.Unless you can see a pic of the parts,or get a very detailed description,you won't know which set of shoes or spider you're getting.
What I don't understand with the old style clutch on the right is the shoes look fine,yet when it was on the saw all it did when I revved the saw was the chain spun very little.There was no oil or excess grease from the bearing.I put another clutch on like the one on the left in the pic & have had no problems since.All of the appropriate parts were there too (outer & inner thrust washers).I'm fairly sure I used the same drum too.
Ed

 

[edju1958]

OK,I don't know if anyone's been reading any posts here lately,but it seems awfully slow on this thread.
As you all may or may not know I've been fiddling with a couple SL9A's.I put together a clutch for one out of NOS parts & put it on one of the saws.I bought a new clutch drum & went to put that on the saw & I can't find the old race anywhere.I went through my entire workbench looking for it & can't find it.If anyone has an extra race laying about I'd greatly appreciate you selling it to me.Thanks!
Ed

 

[edju1958]

I got all set to put a 30 in.bar & chain on my S754 today only to find out that the saw has a .404 rim on it & the bar & chain I was going to put on it is 3/8.Then while doing some research I found an old thread here from back in 2012 of how Remington liked to use really odd ball sprockets of .058 gauge on the rims.I found that Oregon made a sprocket to replace the .058 so we could use the more common.063.I don't know where to find the bearing for the Oregon 10619 sprocket

 

[cbfarmall]

Not quite following your dilemma. The 10619 drum doesn't have a bearing, per se. It uses a bronze bushing that acts as the inner crank seal. Standard Oregon 7 spline rims.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oregon-106...Washer-Remington-760-770-660-65-/163895906357
Far as gauge, Remington was fond of .058 gauge and they weren't the only ones. They also used a goofy fixed rim sprocket, looked like a duck but didn't quack like a duck. McCulloch used these also. That said, I've never seen a sprocket or rim of any form that cared about gauge.



Chris B.

 

[cbfarmall]

BTW, did you get your ignition problem solved on the 754? What did you find?

 

[ML12]

Well, the clearcoat was dry so it was time to start re-assembly.









Its actually a pretty easy saw to work on once you get the hang of it. One question I do have though, is should there be some lettering on the starter housing (white part) ?

Just need to rebuild the carburetor and then it'll be ready to run. I've even got a NOS 30" Remington bar for it.

 

[cbfarmall]

Well, the clearcoat was dry so it was time to start re-assembly.

View attachment 825792

View attachment 825793

View attachment 825794

View attachment 825795

Its actually a pretty easy saw to work on once you get the hang of it. One question I do have though, is should there be some lettering on the starter housing (white part) ?

Just need to rebuild the carburetor and then it'll be ready to run. I've even got a NOS 30" Remington bar for it.

This is Carl's PL7. Yours looks good. What did you use for a primer?

Chris B.1

 

[cbfarmall]

This is Carl's PL7. Yours looks good. What did you use for a primer?

Chris B.View attachment 8257981

I mean the fuel system primer.

 

[edju1958]

BTW, did you get your ignition problem solved on the 754? What did you find?

Fossil pointed out to me that the points gap should be .015,not .020 that Acres' site says it is.Now that I've pulled the old coil off & half of the hair out of my head,I need to put it back together.I'm sure it'll have spark then.
I also understand about the rim not being gauge specific,but the 2 754's that I acquired came with no bars or chains.I'm having a helluva time trying to find a 30 in.bar for these 2 beasts.

 

[cbfarmall]

You may be setting the bar too high looking for a 30" bar and I don't think most of those saws were sold with that length anyway. Probably 21 to 25" is more correct. Then again, my near new SL7A came to me with an original 38" bar and 3/8 chain. Go figure.

 

[ML12]

I mean the fuel system primer.

The original primer bulb is still in good shape, so I re-installed it. I will have to see how it holds up long term.

 

[edju1958]

You may be setting the bar too high looking for a 30" bar and I don't think most of those saws were sold with that length anyway. Probably 21 to 25" is more correct. Then again, my near new SL7A came to me with an original 38" bar and 3/8 chain. Go figure.

I already have the bar here that fits it.I found a Carlton hardnose that I bought last summer for my Mac 380.If 88cc's can't pull a 30 in.chain,then something is wrong.I won't be using this saw as my main saw anyway,it'll be just for those "bigger jobs".Lol Carl told me to go for it a few posts back.

 

[ML12]

Got it all buttoned up last night and put a bar on it. Need to get some chain and then it'll be good to go.









As my dad says: "you've made it too nice, you won't want to use it now" but we will see i'm curious to see how it runs compared to other saws from the era of similar displacement.

 

[fossil]

Looking forward to your report on what you think. Nice job on the paint.