Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[cbfarmall]

Dont why but deleted my video?

I can almost smell the bar oil burning here in Indiana. Mine with good check valves don't smoke at all. Or is the high side just too rich?

Still, sounds good, needs a little tweaking. Lot of displacement for a compact frame.

Chris B.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I can almost smell the bar oil burning here in Indiana. Mine with good check valves don't smoke at all. Or is the high side just too rich?

Still, sounds good, needs a little tweaking. Lot of displacement for a compact frame.

Chris B.

Well I pulled the starter about ten times before realizing that the choke was closed and the rod wasn't connected, so mostly mix smoke.
But yeah the oiler is gonna be investigated, it was REALLY hard to push the manual oiler and after making a few cuts it was obvious it wasn't oiling automatically and the manual oiler got way to easy to push?

 

[edju1958]

I've been working on another Super 754.First I had to test for spark,but how to get the plug out?It's called screw Remington & make your own plug wrench.I ordered a 13/16 scrench & took a hacksaw to the small half,Lol.It worked great.The next challenge was getting the flywheel off that been on for the past 50+ yrs.I have a puller here,but it didn't line up with the holes provided.After placing a couple of 2x4's strategically & a few good blows with a 24 oz.ball pein did the trick.The points were quite tarnished & took a lot of sanding with 150 grit emery cloth,but they finally fit the bill.I was leary about the condenser,I normally don't have much luck with older ones.I put the whole thing back together & still no spark.I thought that it could possibly be a bad switch,so I went to disconnect the screw that held the lead in place & the damn thing disintegrated.Still no spark without the switch,so I've got a new condenser & switch ordered from Feebay.
Ed

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I've been working on another Super 754.First I had to test for spark,but how to get the plug out?It's called screw Remington & make your own plug wrench.I ordered a 13/16 scrench & took a hacksaw to the small half,Lol.It worked great.The next challenge was getting the flywheel off that been on for the past 50+ yrs.I have a puller here,but it didn't line up with the holes provided.After placing a couple of 2x4's strategically & a few good blows with a 24 oz.ball pein did the trick.The points were quite tarnished & took a lot of sanding with 150 grit emery cloth,but they finally fit the bill.I was leary about the condenser,I normally don't have much luck with older ones.I put the whole thing back together & still no spark.I thought that it could possibly be a bad switch,so I went to disconnect the screw that held the lead in place & the damn thing disintegrated.Still no spark without the switch,so I've got a new condenser & switch ordered from Feebay.
Ed

Chainsawr had some ignition parts for that saw also, the line up marks are kinda hard to see on my saw for the coil ,might want to check that also.

 

[67L36Driver]

I weighed them once. Homelite Super XL925 vrs Remington SL-55. Both full up on fuel & oil and 20” bars each.

Remy is 2 1/4# lighter per my digital fishing scale.

And both will boil the fuel on a 60 degree day. [emoji21]

 

[edju1958]

I've been doing a little thinking on the order of how the wiring goes on the 754.There were 4 wires that went onto the plastic block that the points strap hooked onto.Were all of them supposed to be insulated between the 2 plastic block pieces?I have one of them that has a huge square metal piece attached to it between the 1st plastic block & the metal of the points box,so it's being grounded out.I don't know why there are 4 wires,one is for the switch ground to kill the saw,one is to the points,& one is for the condenser.Maybe the 4th one is to the coil?If that's the case,that could be why I don't have spark?

 

[cbfarmall]

I've been doing a little thinking on the order of how the wiring goes on the 754.There were 4 wires that went onto the plastic block that the points strap hooked onto.Were all of them supposed to be insulated between the 2 plastic block pieces?I have one of them that has a huge square metal piece attached to it between the 1st plastic block & the metal of the points box,so it's being grounded out.I don't know why there are 4 wires,one is for the switch ground to kill the saw,one is to the points,& one is for the condenser.Maybe the 4th one is to the coil?If that's the case,that could be why I don't have spark?

If memory serves, the points spring is attached inside the box to the stud. The stud passes through the plastic blocks that insulate it. The 'huge square metal piece' sounds like the coil ground and this fits behind the plastic block against the metal points box--if this is touching any of the other wires that is your problem. The other lead (primary) on the coil attaches to the stud, along with the condenser and kill switch wires. The stud/screw must be not be grounded. Check the points to ground with the condenser and coil primary disconnected from the circuit.

I've also seen coils with integral grounds to the laminations and some with a terminal eye to a screw. Wico used all different types.

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Chris B.

 

[fossil]

You got it right Chris. I sent some pics to Ed.

 

[edju1958]

Thanks guys! I wasn't able to get at it today,possibly tomorrow.Just so busy this time of yr.trying to get wood cut & split,& get the lawn equipment ready for another season.
Ed

 

[edju1958]

I've got problems with my SL9A's manual oilers.The tanks are full of an oil & kerosene mix (mostly kerosene) & I can't get the plungers to pump anything.I pulled the plungers out to make sure everything was there - springs & O rings on the plungers.I even took a plunger out of a manual only SL9 & swapped it with the plunger from the SL9A & still it won't oil.When I had the plunger out I squirted WD40 into the plunger hole & put the plunger back in.The WD40 pumped out at the bar pad,but that was it.Obviously the systems are plugged where the oil is picked up from the reservoir,but where do I start?
Ed

 

[67L36Driver]

Pull the throttle to WOT and then try.

[emoji849]

 

[cbfarmall]

I've got problems with my SL9A's manual oilers.The tanks are full of an oil & kerosene mix (mostly kerosene) & I can't get the plungers to pump anything.I pulled the plungers out to make sure everything was there - springs & O rings on the plungers.I even took a plunger out of a manual only SL9 & swapped it with the plunger from the SL9A & still it won't oil.When I had the plunger out I squirted WD40 into the plunger hole & put the plunger back in.The WD40 pumped out at the bar pad,but that was it.Obviously the systems are plugged where the oil is picked up from the reservoir,but where do I start?
Ed

Don't forget the check valves. I'm sure there's at least one.

Chris B.

 

[67L36Driver]

And a flow control up by the bar mount. Look for a screwdriver slotted head.

Someone may have tightened the ‘screw’ and shut it off completely. [emoji37]

 

[edju1958]

I managed to play around with one of the SL9A's today.I pulled the flywheel & stator plate with the coil to open things up & clean & I found the valve o n the bottom of the manual plunger with the linkage.It seems to oil sporadically even with the trigger pulled to WOT.I had the line disconnected from the elbow that right under the coil,but I couldn't pull it out of the elbow.As I understand it there's supposed to be a screen in there & it's probably plugged.Any suggestions are welcome as to how to get that line out of the elbow to check that screen.
Ed

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I took some time to mess around with the old Sl7a, I used an after market homelite duck bill and fuel line for a check valve in the oil elbow , but the thread in the elbow cap are alittle suspect.
What should my expectations be with this saw it'll pull the 36" with 3/8s but I kind of expected it to be like my 1050 homelite minus 5cc. Might need more time with it but seems alittle lacking for 95cc?

 

[67L36Driver]

My PL-7A isn’t a barn burner. But I only ran it a little bit when I got him. [emoji848]

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

My PL-7A isn’t a barn burner. But I only ran it a little bit when I got him. [emoji848]

Well I probably just have to fine tune a little, I do have an 8 pin rim on the clutch might try a 7 and see what I think. The super 754 did impress me with the grunt it has and thought the sl7a would be right there .

 

[edju1958]

I was out cutting today with ther only running SL9 I have & took a break to refuel & saw that what fuel was left in the tank was boiling.Is this a common thing?I don't remember the SL9 I had in my teens doing that.The engine is clean,so I can't see it happening from overheating due to a dirty engine.
After waiting for the gas to cool down I restarted the saw & it died after only a few seconds.I think the boiling fuel did something to the fuel filter.Also,the O ring for the fuel cap broke.Is there an alternate O ring I can use from a Homelite saw,for example?
Ed

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Well I changed the rim from a 8 to a 7 pin and that made a good bit of difference in the cutting performance. I think a skip chain would be better also but after the 7pin rim was on it the saw didn't really struggle with the 36" bar and full comp chain, not cutting the butt of a hard pecan would probably be easier too...
The nice thing is that the saw weighs so little for the grunt of old school muscle ,I think it would make an excellent candidate for a 28" reduced weight bar an full skip chain.
I still think it could take advantage of a larger carburetor and I'll probably experiment with that.

 

[edju1958]

Well I got the SL9 up & running again.I'd suspected it was a plugged fuel filter & sure enough that's what it was.I had to dig the old filter out of the cup,probably the original filter.Since I didn't have any more Mac filters I cut the cup off & inserted a standard fuel filter & then had to make some carb adjustments as the saw wanted to run with the choke half on.
While I was at it I pulled the clutch off one of the SL9A's & put it on another SL9 manual oiler,so now I have 2 SL9's that are runners.Maybe this week if I have the time I can get at one of the SL9A saws.
Ed