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ncrile

ncrile

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Bend, OR
Thought I'd ask here. This may be the wrong thread but....

Does anyone know where this wavy washer goes on a Silver Logmaster? Thought I'd remember, but forgot that I don't remember what I think I'll remember.

TIA
 

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67L36Driver

67L36Driver

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Thought I'd ask here. This may be the wrong thread but....

Does anyone know where this wavy washer goes on a Silver Logmaster? Thought I'd remember, but forgot that I don't remember what I think I'll remember.

TIA

It has to do with the flywheel holding the points cam in position.

It’s possible to install the points cam upside down. Not going to work that way.

Be careful with the crankshaft key has a tapered end. Match the tapered seat in the keyway.

Bendix-Scintilla magneto? Most of them have turned to trash.
 
ncrile

ncrile

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Location
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It has to do with the flywheel holding the points cam in position.

It’s possible to install the points cam upside down. Not going to work that way.

Be careful with the crankshaft key has a tapered end. Match the tapered seat in the keyway.

Bendix-Scintilla magneto? Most of them have turned to trash.
Thank You Driver! Now I can see how that cam could drift towards flywheel. Yes, Bendix Magneto. This one is in good shape. The biggest problem with this saw, so far, was the rot in the tank and Carb mess.

Thanks for the heads up! I am prone to those kind of mistakes! These old Remington IPL's are hard to come by. Your experience is invaluable.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Back a couple of weeks ago I bought an SL11 as a parts saw for my PL5,but it was in too good of a shape to just use for parts.I had to replace the starter cup on the flywheel & when I pulled it over it had spark.The carb was set way too rich & wouldn't idle.I pulled the mufflerr to have a look at the P&C & it was in great shape.I went to pull the plug wire off to check for spark & the wire broke & I ended up with the boot & a small section of wire in my hand,Lol.I've since replaced the wire & put a new plug in it & got it running real nice yesterdasy.I went out to start it again today & found 2 of the recoil screws had vibrated out & are lost forever in the driveway covered in snow.I found some new screws that fit better & the saw fired up on about the 4th pull.It's a runner! Pics to come.
 
Marine-piper

Marine-piper

Homelite collector in training.☠
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Recoil cover screws are #12-24.

As are lots of the others.

I’ve scrapped out Remingtons and Homelites just to save the hard to come by fasteners.
Hey Carl I just picked up 4 boxes of 12-24 Homelite screws from feebay at a reasonable price.

Homelite enthusiast in training.
f7cc4479c0c840ff974edb4dc3e6407f.jpg
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Back about 2-3 weeks ago I had to pull the carb off my PL4.As it turned out (or so I thought) it just needed cleaning.I had the saw running great & was making some fine tuning on the carb & it just cut out on me & the air box flooded with fuel.I knew there was a problem with either the metering diaphragm or the needle,so I pulled the carb again.All looked good till I put the needle under a 12X magnifier & saw that the tip of it was gone.I put the carb back in last night & finished it today.The saw fired up on the first pull & seems to be running fine now.I just need to fine tune it again & see how it goes.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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The carb on the PL4 got pulled again today.It doesn't want to pull fuel.I put the Mighty Vac on it & it won't hold any pressure whatsoever.I have a new kit & needle in it & have no idea why it's doing that.
Also,I need to know if the reed valve should be sealed tight or have a little more than a 1/16 in.gap?

I pulled the same carb off the PL5 & found out why it has terrible scoring on the piston & rings.Apparently it decided to eat the reed valve.The reed is non-existent on the PL5.I was going to use the carb from the PL5,but not sure at this point if the problem is 2 fold or not.
 
cbfarmall

cbfarmall

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The carb on the PL4 got pulled again today.It doesn't want to pull fuel.I put the Mighty Vac on it & it won't hold any pressure whatsoever.I have a new kit & needle in it & have no idea why it's doing that.
Also,I need to know if the reed valve should be sealed tight or have a little more than a 1/16 in.gap?

I pulled the same carb off the PL5 & found out why it has terrible scoring on the piston & rings.Apparently it decided to eat the reed valve.The reed is non-existent on the PL5.I was going to use the carb from the PL5,but not sure at this point if the problem is 2 fold or not.

1/16" gap under the reed seems a bit much. It might be possible to flip the reed over but sometimes the screw holes are staggered to prevent this or it may not even be possible to disassemble the reed valve. Either way, flipping the reed will accelerate wear and fatigue. There are good reasons why fiberglass reeds are used nowadays over steel. That said, I have actually replaced few reeds for gap. Most have been because the edges are chipped and damaged.

Looking at an IPL, the reed resembles that of an XL12--just like the rest of the saw.

Chris B.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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I tried to pressurize the carb & it won't hold any pressure at all.I replaced the welch plugs & still the same.Looks like that carb has a crack in the casting.
I can't find any HS87A carbs on Feebay at all.There's an HS79A,anyone know if the venturi are the same?
 
edju1958

edju1958

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That was an idea that had come to me.I'm wondering if a reed from a Homie XL-12 or SXL,the old single reed style,would possibly swap over.I'll see if I can get a pic of the gap of the reed on here,it may be even more than 1/16 in.gap.
Also,as for the carb issue,I found an HS79A on Feebay,but I can't find any specs on it to see if the venturi are the same as the HS87A.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Here's a pic of the carb on a SL7A that I'm bidding on on Feebay.The seller says it's a primer on the carb & not a choke.

Can the carbs that have primers on them be converted over to a choke carb,or do I need to get an entirely different carb?
 

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cbfarmall

cbfarmall

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The primer carb wouldn't have a choke shaft so I don't see how it can be converted. You could just resign yourself to manually priming it all the time. Just like a McCulloch.

FYI, that light colored thing north of the carb is a check valve. Splits in half, has a rubber disk in it.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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I have a pump oil can with 2 cycle mix in it,works great!

Thanks for the info guys.Now let's see if I end up with that SL7A.
 
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