Removing Stihl Limiter Caps

[Tzed250]

Pictured are the:

Large outlet, dual port casing muffler (1122 140 0603)
Limiter caps (4203 121 2700)
Limiter cap puller (5910 890 4500)

 

[climber17]

limiter removing tool

how does the tool work? looks just like a punch or sawn screwdriver

 

[matt9923]

how does the tool work? looks just like a punch or sawn screwdriver

i think it has reverse threads.

 

[Stihlverado]

Would those be the same part numbers for a ms 460? I pulled my caps off recently using the dry wall "technic", worked great! But was unaware of the screws walking, :jawdrop:

 

[Tzed250]

Would those be the same part numbers for a ms 460? I pulled my caps off recently using the dry wall "technic", worked great! But was unaware of the screws walking, :jawdrop:

Caps are the same.


.

 

[Anthony_Va.]

I must be missing something about pulling the caps. Are they no good anymore after you pull them? Have to get new ones?

I've read everything, just can't figure it out for some reason.

I was thinking just turn them to line up the slot, pull them out and trim the tab, then shove them back in? Is there anything else?

 

[Anthony_Va.]

And also, do you turn them all the way C-wise to pull them? or CCW?

Is it the tab on the cap bumping against something that keeps you from turning them but so far? I figured it must be and that whay you remove the tab on the cap. Someone help me if I'm wrong, which I prolly am.

 

[ffstreetdoc]

And also, do you turn them all the way C-wise to pull them? or CCW?

Is it the tab on the cap bumping against something that keeps you from turning them but so far? I figured it must be and that whay you remove the tab on the cap. Someone help me if I'm wrong, which I prolly am.

turn them all the way CCW, then use a pick or similar tool, they pull out alittle tight but will come out...

 

[Trapper63]

Ahhhh....A great thread. no need to be buried..Good info here. I've been cutting firewood for over 25 years but with stock saws. I'm glad to find all this in one thread.
This is where this site shines.

 

[xdmp22]

The screw method works well

As far as them coming out, you have to turn them until the tab lines up with the open gap

Look into the gap and turn, when you see the tab. Pull and pull and wiggle and pull....

Then trim and file the tab down smooth. Put caps back in.

Only reason to replace them is if you fubar them with the screw

 

[Naked Arborist]

Ahhhh....A great thread. no need to be buried..Good info here. I've been cutting firewood for over 25 years but with stock saws. I'm glad to find all this in one thread.
This is where this site shines.

Hey all first post and I'm with the quote all the way...

With that said I have a 029 Super running a MS310 block. Those damn limiter caps are the SOB for my saw in weather changes. The saw always needs a slight tune from day to day. Here in Jersey the weather is always on the move temp and humidity. :msp_sad: I removed the limiter caps because the screws always walk out on me with or with out the caps new or used ones. I took the carb off and put a slight stake in the carb body next to the set screws with a very fine chisel to tighten them up to cure the "walk out" problem. I would not recommend doing this unless you have done some serious mods to carbs. I've been doing custom mods to just about every carb on this planet at on point or another. They never walk around now and it makes tuning the saw for any weather a breeze. Try it if you dare but be WARNED!, a little too much on the staking and you will lock the screws down or twist them off trying to tune it. Go easy, because you can always re-stake them if they walk around. Hope that helps you get rid of the caps forever!!!!

 

[Trapper63]

Welcome to the site Naked Arborist.Lots of good suff here.

 

[paunchy]

I'm having a hell of a time getting one of the caps off of my MS460. I've been yanking it for at least 45 minutes now and have tried the drywall screw technique, the pick technique and the cry like a baby technique. The first one came out easy so I know how the internal tab should line up but it's just not coming out.

And Stihl / the EPA seems to have cracked down on the sale of the puller tool so it looks like I'll be looking for some left-hand thread screws with which to improvise one.

The only other thing I've contemplated is trying to drill it out. I'm pretty sure this will remove a lot of the plastic but I'm worried that the barrel of the cap will still remain in place and then I'll have less material left to grab at. Thoughts anyone?

 

[David (saltas)]

I cant see the photobucket pictures

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/173328.htm
this thread relates to MS261 H limiter not sure how many newer stihls are like this

 

[Philbert]

Still a helpful tip 3+ years later. Replaced a cylinder on a STIHL 046 with an aftermarket one and could not bring the high RPMs down.

Drywall screw worked simply, and I did not have to remove the carb.

Thanks guys.

Philbert

 

[Bingo]

Limiter caps

Thanks, yes I could use the part # for the 660. I was hoping to find someplace that sold them online, because I hate going to useless dealers.
The one closest to me (about 5 minutes by car) is normally pretty good. I'd go to Thall10326, but he's about 90 to 120 minutes away, a long drive for a pair of caps.

But then I do want a 40" bar, and Bailey's no longer offers free shipping.

HMMM??

Once the tabs were cut off my 310 carb and the red caps replaced they allowed no movement at all (but they should be re-installed). You shouldn't have to worry about those adjusters once you fix em...And unless you like playing w/the carb you shouldn't have to do anything on a daily basis. Though once done you can tune/re-tune w/a small screwdriver w/the caps in place. I quote your posting just to say that if Thall lived that close to me I'd take a 12-pack over and, if he was a mind, see if he could show me something about tuning and why, once set, you don't have to do it often...Once done it's pretty much done. Just keep an ear on it while cutting...you'll know when you need to re-tune...rarely...BTW the "caps" should cost pennies at a dealer. Oops...just saw that this was a rather old posting. Maybe the recent info will help someone finding it for the first time...

 

[Thomas Venditto]

I've been at it for over 2 hrs! Can't get those screws/caps out. I have them backed out as far as they go. I can see the red tab in the notch but NO go!
I now have the carb out of the saw. I've tried the drywall screw, an easy out, a variety of medical picks and forceps, needle nose pliers and ZIP!. The right side comes out a mm or 2, the left won't budge.
I may have to go for the tool.
TomJV

 

[Thomas Venditto]

Another hour or so at it and they came out. I wound up using a precision (Starrett City) compass and medical forceps. The plastic is pretty mangled, but they went back in and they work. Waiting on a muffler I ordered on EBay to mod out . . .

 

[Rockjock]

Another hour or so at it and they came out. I wound up using a precision (Starrett City) compass and medical forceps. The plastic is pretty mangled, but they went back in and they work. Waiting on a muffler I ordered on EBay to mod out . . .

I have done quite a few with the stihl tool and most times I can reuse them in a pinch. They are not $$ from the dealer so always have some on hand.

 

[president]

I have a question.
If the limiter caps really cause the adjustments to not "walk around" does it really matter. I think if your going to use a saw you should need to be able to tune it almost as often as you adjust the chain. the fuel and conditions vary enough to support my thinking right?. I don't think setting mixture and Idle speeds is a "set and forget" thing. Kind of like chain sharpening I guess, something you need to learn how to do right eventually.

We have 4 defined seasons here and I adjust for each one and even humidity,and especialy
elevation .As with OP slight changes are a must