Roper Craftsman 3.7 PS Fuel Line Replacement

[dsell]

I've got a complete Roper Craftsman power sharp 3.7 with 170 psi compression, strong spark, idles with primer. The tank has varnished fuel and I'm sure the fuel line needs replaced. How bad is the job? Do I have to split the tank? There is a similar post but the pictures are gone. Also, what's the best way to clean the tank?

 

[dsell]

 

[dsell]

The fuel line is no longer available, 9132H. Hopefully, some Tygon will fit. The air filter is no longer available, 9103H, does anyone know if the 9163H will work? The filter is 3-5/8 x 3-1/2 and the hole is 1-3/4 from the front. I had to use a 1/2" impact to get the clutch off, never had one that bad. My 3/8 butterfly is a cheapo, but this is the first clutch it couldn't move.

 

[67L36Driver]

Wash the air filter in hot soapy water, rinse and air dry. Or, swish in a pan of mineral spirits and air dry. You don't replace air filters just because they are dirty.

How pliable is your fuel line. Maybe you can cobble some new tygon on the the ends and save the grommet part. Or, run a new line inside the grommet section.

 

[dsell]

Wash the air filter in hot soapy water, rinse and air dry. Or, swish in a pan of mineral spirits and air dry. You don't replace air filters just because they are dirty.

How pliable is your fuel line. Maybe you can cobble some new tygon on the the ends and save the grommet part. Or, run a new line inside the grommet section.

The line is broke on the tank side of the grommet. I don't think any of the line is worth saving, as you can see by the paint on the hose, it's original. It's not sticky, but it's weathered looking near the filter. Someone had a tie strap on the carb end to keep it from leaking. I can run the air filter a while, but the rubber is sticky and will need replaced. An old post said something about an Echo fuel line, but no details. As you can see by the picture of the line, the metal is very thick that the grommet goes in.

 

[dsell]

Got the saw running last night, no cuts yet. I used BBs, paint thinner, Awesome, and the ultrasonic to clean the tank. I ran many heated cycles and messed with it longer than necessary. The tank is glued together from the factory and the excess adhesive is puddled in the tank. The adhesive looked like a bunch of varnished gas. I needed 8 inches of 3/8 x 3/16 Tygon to make the fuel line, but my local supplier didn't have it. I used 8" of 1/4 x 3/16 and 5" of 3/8 x 1/4, pulling the 1/4 into the 3/8. The best solution would be 12" of 3/8 x 3/16 slit back to 8" then fish it through the tank and pull toward the carburetor, (after removing the tank). I wouldn't suggest fishing the line without removing the tank, but if so, use 16" of line and slit to 8". To remove the tank, remove the starter, clutch, 4 countersunk screws behind the clutch, oil line fitting near the bar mount, and one screw underneath near the handle. The sparkplug wire is captured to the tank and will need pried loose. I used my butterfly impact to remove the screws which have thread locker. Don't take the carb off unless you have to kit it, what a nightmare. The kill switch wire was broke at the terminal and it's fixed, very poor design. The wire is required to slide up and down with the switch.

 

[J Beard]

Nice looking old saw

 

[dsell]

Nice looking old saw

Thanks, I don't have any decent size logs to test it, but here's a video.

 

[67L36Driver]

Be very carful of your air filter lid. I bet 90% of them out there are broken or cracked.

 

[dsell]

Be very carful of your air filter lid. I bet 90% of them out there are broken or cracked.

There's a small corner missing out of this one, just cosmetic.

 

[J Beard]

Sounds good, cuts nice too
Nice work

 

[Schumach]

Did anyone find out if the 9163H air filter will work to replace the 9103H? Cleaning only works if it's not already missing

 

[dsell]

I never found one but I stopped pursuing it because I sold the saw.

 

[ILikeIke]

I acquired this exact chainsaw for free a couple years ago, and when the basic updating round didn't work (carb clean, fresh gas, new plug), decided to try & change the fuel line. Which would appear to require near complete disassembly to access & install.
Not wanting to spend money on a 50 year old chainsaw, I tried the rope in the cylinder trick (worked), and used a punch to break the clutch off (destroyed the clutch). Figuring it might be possible to get a cheap replacement clutch off Ebay, I tried to remove the 4 countersunk screws behind the clutch, and lacking an impact gun, they promptly stripped ever so lightly.
That's game over for me folks, which is a shame, I love older, quality, American made tools & equipment, and it would have been great to bring this one back.
In the mean time, should anyone read this, what is/are the best chainsaw(s) for light, home use? It'll be used for brush clearing, but in the event of a massive hurricane, I would like to be able to section a tree, or clear a blocked road. It happened a few years ago, and as power was down for 2+ weeks, anyone with a good gas chainsaw was a hero. Ease of maintenance & repair is a consideration.

Rope in the cylinder trick:

 

[dsell]

That model's a little tough to work on. The Stihl MS180 is a nice, cheap ($200), little homeowner saw but would lack large tree clearing ability. The Echo 590 is a reasonably priced saw that would do both and more of a pro build. I don't care for the Husky 455 or 460 and I haven't been around the Husky 435 or 440. If you want to spend $600 then it's a different story. My Jonsered CS2166 is listed on trading post for $540 and it's new.