Sawing logs under suspension

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fleeperkeeper

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Gypo Logger:
You have posted a couple of pictures where you are sawing a log under suspension with the implied intention of cutting right through. I have a short Real Player movie of you doing exactly that with a 372XP. My question is how do you do that without the log binding the saw?
 
Gyppo's using his radical KD modified, 12,013 HP saw that can cut so fast the the bar is through the stick, and on to the next cut before gravity has time to react.

Kind of like when Wile E. Coyote runs over the edge of the cliff and stands there for a split second before dropping to the bottom of the canyon.
 
Thats a good question but if you pay close attention to the clip you will notice that he cuts the offside, first starting the top cut and tipping the nose of the bar down to cut the offside and then finishing with the final straight down cut,also you must have noticed the wedge thats inserted into the kerf also that plays a big role as well since the log can't bind or close up on the saw..Hope this helps and is'nt too confusing.

Thanks
 
Good to see you posting again Steve...get the pic thing figured out? Stress wood can be relieved a couple of different ways...as NH said...either by putting a small cut into the tension wood...or by using a wedge while cutting...
 
For me it isn't unuasual to saw a log under suspension the "wrong" way for two thirds of the cut, then finish the cut the other way. It saves effort sometimes, for example using a heavy saw to cut a heavy log and doing the cut from the bottom all the way through takes more energy than the other method. And Gypo tends to use a saw that's probably almost 30 pounds with fuel and oil and bar and chain and everything.

Either that, or he's just posing for the picture with no intention of getting his saw stuck.
 
Hi Steve, good to see you back. Since most logs have either bottom or top bind, I generally cut down at least a third on the bind side, then finish the cut by cutting the other side. It is generally just a matter of reading the wood and watching if the kerf is closing ever so slightly. This method eliminates shatter and fibre pull. The best bet is to place wedges in the bind side and make one cut all the way thru.
I think the movie you are refering to, is on the video clips link at : www.yukonjohn.ca Walkerized 372 movie. The log in question was about 22" in dia, so I cliped the back of the log about 3" deap to accomidate the 20" bar I was using. In this case I was using a wedge. The log was a bone dry White Ash.
John
 
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