I'd look at it closely. The way it's cracking it looks as though it's cracking directly down from the stud, not in the direction of the crack, as though the bar is acting as a lever on the front stud pivoting off the back. If the front is cracked, the back isn't far behind or is also cracked, but not opened as far, which would make sense since it's further up the lever arm(the bar).
If it's making you money and it's lighter than the comparable husky offering, then what's a few hundred bucks to repair it I guess. If you get a new case when you remove this one you could bake the oil off it and then have it welded properly and then powder coated to have as a spare, but if they made a better quality updated case that's probably going to be better and a cheaper option. I would sell it needing the repair(being open about it) and just buy a new one. Unfortunately I don't think epoxy will be able to fix it long term. You need to find the end of the crack and drill it to prevent it from traveling any further, grind it out, clean it very well, and then fill it with epoxy for the best results.
This is the epoxy I prefer, it was developed for machining and it is very hard and oil will not be a problem for it.
I've never seen this particular one for this cheap, and all the other listings are more expensive(by a good bit) that I saw.
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This one has a higher concentration of titanium, the one above has titanium too.
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I'm always interested in buying saws, got any huskys you're selling
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How does the 562 compare to the 462, close?
Back in the day I had a few Mazda 323's, the radiator would leak on the top which was plastic, I would use a similar product called liquid steel, it worked great and held the pressure no problem. Sometimes a "quick" fix works
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