simple milling platform

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abs111999

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I want to set up a simple 12 ft long chain saw milling station..I have a saw bar guide for 2x4. I was thinking 2 fat poles dug into the ground and joined by some beam and then the 2x4 screwed onto the top..then some way to support the log right next to the bar and somewhat below it.
mostly lodgepole pine
dead about 8-11 inch.
has anyone built something like this they would like to share their design.??and pics..
 
never mind the chainsaw mill....
can I get a 6-8 hp gas motor already set up to run a 16 inch circular saw in the vertical position and adjustable to the right and left( no up or down)
and is setup to ride on a simple track I would build...??
 
I don't know about simple but this was my solution. I offer a lease on my blueprints so you can build your own42.JPG 43.JPG 46.JPG 42.JPG 42.JPG
 

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definitely not simple but nice.
btw you know how many bandsawmills use a H pattern square tubing to mount the bandwheels on...with one side using a sliding tube one size bigger to
facilitate blade tensioning...thats the main part that I cant build...the rest is fairly simple.....I dont weld..is there someone out west here that could build that simple
unit for me for a small bandsawmill similar to this one (pic)but with metal bandwheels instead of wood..?? I only need a small saw to saw 7-10 inch logs no more than 12 ft.It must be less than 300 $.I think the transport and tracks would be easy to put together. I had an LT15 years ago.
 

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Very cool rig,
Can you cut with the back of the bar as this would reduce chip scatter?
Also are you using Lopro as this gives a narrower Kerf?

The saw will cut moving backwards or forward. It saves having to traverse from one end to the other between cuts, and it helps to keep the log pushed onto the bed instead of pulling it up. I don't worry about kerf thickness. I like the aggressiveness of .404 chain and it is easier to sharpen than a smaller tooth. Mostly I use the chainsaw function to cut uniform half rounds for building tables and benches. They are worth more to me than the boards I could cut out of the rest. I take the cant to a local sawmill and have them slice it up for live edge boards. They like cutting them because they lay flat on the saw and they can be sure that there are no nails or bobwire in them. I use the plunge cutting function to make hollow log ice chests. Sometimes I will come across a interesting crotch or burl to cut. Go to drop box link below for a more detailed description of the machine, and info on how you can build your own.

machine: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/nr4yw91iv2hgdl0/AACv5-Unq_KSGyYK-2YHwWIBa?dl=0

furniture it makes: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pq9hfk8rqr7l416/AADQZxeku_HGeIBLpz4MeasIa?dl=0
 

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definitely not simple but nice.
btw you know how many bandsawmills use a H pattern square tubing to mount the bandwheels on...with one side using a sliding tube one size bigger to
facilitate blade tensioning...thats the main part that I cant build...the rest is fairly simple.....I dont weld..is there someone out west here that could build that simple
unit for me for a small bandsawmill similar to this one (pic)but with metal bandwheels instead of wood..?? I only need a small saw to saw 7-10 inch logs no more than 12 ft.It must be less than 300 $.I think the transport and tracks would be easy to put together. I had an LT15 years ago.

When I first started I mounted my 14" woodworking bandsaw on a rolling platform between two 2x4 rails and propped logs on a stand to slice them. It worked fairly well for small scale work like you have in mind. You can pick an adequate used saw on Ebay or Craigslist fairly cheap, and be sawing for less than $300.
 
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/6PcUwby_3As/maxresdefault.jpg
this one seems right for me.I think I can build this frame and get it welded or could I bolt it together using brackets?
Where can I get the bearing and axle parts for something like this?? Do the mountable bearings have a slot in them that rides in a keyway on the axle??
I would use trailer wheels I think..Where can I get them cheap and what size would be good??THis is for milling small poles/logs only.7-11 inch max.
 
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/6PcUwby_3As/maxresdefault.jpg
this one seems right for me.I think I can build this frame and get it welded or could I bolt it together using brackets?
Where can I get the bearing and axle parts for something like this?? Do the mountable bearings have a slot in them that rides in a keyway on the axle??
I would use trailer wheels I think..Where can I get them cheap and what size would be good??THis is for milling small poles/logs only.7-11 inch max.

I get all my widgets and parts for homebuilts from Wholesale Tools Inc. they have a large assortment of bearings, gears, shafts and such. They supply the machine tool industry. They have a branch near me but you can also order on the internet. On the machine above I used brackets and bolts wherever possible, but sometimes welds are the way to go.
 
I watched some videos on pillow blocks and shafts....The common way to secure the shaft from wandering out of the bearing block is to just tighten set screws
down on the shaft with onboard Allen screws. I have never worked with shafts and pillow blocks...it seems to me that a couple of small set screws would be kind of light as far as holding a spinning shaft from moving...know what I mean??????What do you know??....I thought there would be a groove in the shaft that
would lock it in but the videos I saw were solid smooth shafts without any grooves..
 
I watched some videos on pillow blocks and shafts....The common way to secure the shaft from wandering out of the bearing block is to just tighten set screws
down on the shaft with onboard Allen screws. I have never worked with shafts and pillow blocks...it seems to me that a couple of small set screws would be kind of light as far as holding a spinning shaft from moving...know what I mean??????What do you know??....I thought there would be a groove in the shaft that
would lock it in but the videos I saw were solid smooth shafts without any grooves..

I grind a flat surface where the setscrews tighten. A machine shop could cut keyways for you. I've been using the machine hard for three years with no problems.
 

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