Stihl 028 AV wood boss rebuild question

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EuroOrBust

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I picked up a few 028 wood bosses that I plan on rebuilding and looking for some direction on tools to make my life easier. Are there aftermarket options for the following:

Case splitter
Crank seal puller/install tools
Crank assembly tool
 
I have rebuilt five of them. Great saws and worth every penny to rebuild. I sold all but one and I decided to keep that one. That include that includes this 028 Classic Wood Boss:
Stihl 028 Classic.jpg
It runs today and the owner said he liked it because it has no chain brake. He called me last week and asked me if I could find another one for a backup. He's put hours and hours on it. No problems at all.
 
I have rebuilt five of them. Great saws and worth every penny to rebuild. I sold all but one and I decided to keep that one. That include that includes this 028 Classic Wood Boss:
View attachment 882977
It runs today and the owner said he liked it because it has no chain brake. He called me last week and asked me if I could find another one for a backup. He's put hours and hours on it. No problems at all.
What are you using to split the cases and pull/install the crank seals?
 
Replacing seals are pretty straight forward. You can use a drywall screw are grind a notch into the end of a screw driver. If you're splitting the case then even easier. Fortunately mine had good bearngs so i didn't have to split it. Take pictures as you disassemble it. I believe there are a few YouTube videos on it. I love my super. Its bulletproof. There are a few different versions so be careful when ordering parts.
 
What are you using to split the cases and pull/install the crank seals?
But a husqvarna type C clamp splitter on ebay. For the crank, I use the @Mattyo tool, but I used to freeze the crank, warm the bearings, and slip it in.

The bearings go into the case using heat.

You can do it all without specially tools, but you gotta get it all right. For disassembly, knock pins out and take out all case bolts. The case half should spin on themselves. Put on a grill, put on heavy welding gloves, heat case to around 350*. Using a rubber mallet or nylon hammer, wack crank and it will come out of both sides with bearings on it. Need a bearing puller to get them off.

For assembly:

Freeze Crank. Take Fly case half, heat bearing pocket with heat gun or carefully with a torch (rotating all the time), when case is smoking and its too hot to hold anywhere using light gloves, drop bearing in. Wait 2-3 min. The bearing will soak up heat. Then take crank out of freezer and stab it right into bearing. Should go right in.

Leave outside or freeze again. Put the pins back in, but leave them sticking out around 1/8” towards mating surface.

Then do PTO case same way. Usually need oil pump on to set depth on a Stihl for PTO bearings. When the bearing is soaking up heat, take frozen case, put gasket on it, lay on bench. The hot PTO case and bearing should drop right over the crank. The pins will keep the gasket location correct and stop you from sending it all home. Then use case boots to finish assembly. Tap crank back and for the with a punch until it rotates smoothly. Tap pins back in to correct location.
 
You just need a bronze or plastic hammer to split the cranckcase. You can press the bearings in or out with a socket.
Look at the attached old SM for more information.
 

Attachments

  • STIHL 028 38 SM.pdf
    8.2 MB · Views: 27
You just need a bronze or plastic hammer to split the cranckcase. You can press the bearings in or out with a socket.
Look at the attached old SM for more information.
That’s some awesome reference material, is there a sticky anywhere on this forum with other stihl service manuals?
 
What are you using to split the cases and pull/install the crank seals?
Hard to believe, but I have never run into an 028 Wood Boss that had a severe leak in the seals or needed new bearings. The Stihl professional line seals seem to hold up better than the others, especialty the clam shells. I have replaced crank seals on the others, several of which do not require you to split the case but do require a complete crank shaft removal.
 
Hard to believe, but I have never run into an 028 Wood Boss that had a severe leak in the seals or needed new bearings. The Stihl professional line seals seem to hold up better than the others, especialty the clam shells. I have replaced crank seals on the others, several of which do not require you to split the case but do require a complete crank shaft removal.
To be honest this particular saw I didn’t even check for leaks. The case is so dirty though and since I’m doing a total rebuild, the plan was to strip it down and clean and degrease it entirely.
 
I'm making one out of 3 hanger queens right now. I think you'll spend more time matching up oil pumps and finding the little parts that go missing than you will changing seals or bearings. Great saws!
 
I have a Stihl Wood Boss 028 AVS with at least one leaking seal (clutch side). I was hoping to replace the seals without splitting the case. Any advice welcome.
 
I've just posted a picture and video above of my Stihl Wood Boss 028 AVS. I've diagnosed the leak using water. I've done a bit of reading and think I'll just go for the seal replacement. I'm planning to fashion a screw driver into a hook to get the old seal out, but maybe I'll also need a screw. I'll then try to slide the new seal on with some coke can metal.
 
You can use one layer of electrical tape to add some taper to that step on the crankshaft. Put some grease on it. Watch that polymer center carefully. If it folds out you can bet you dropped the spring.

People get them out with paint can openers, drywall screws, different ways. Lyle makes an inexpensive puller that works.
If the bearing cage looks good I would not split the case.
 
I have a Stihl Wood Boss 028 AVS with at least one leaking seal (clutch side). I was hoping to replace the seals without splitting the case. Any advice welcome.

To replace the seals- no, the case does not need to be split.
They pull out over the crank stubs and new ones slide over and are pressed into place- most without access to a press, use a deep socket and a hammer to fit them.
There are some pitfalls to be avoided- suggest watching some videos or the like if you have no experience in main oil seal fitting.
 
I picked up a few 028 wood bosses that I plan on rebuilding and looking for some direction on tools to make my life easier. Are there aftermarket options for the following:

Case splitter
Crank seal puller/install tools
Crank assembly tool
Save yourself some grief if you need a new air filter and avoid the Chinese after market. OEM is the only way to go for air filters, fuel and oil lines! I have bought the Chinese knock off Farmer Tech crank seal pullers. Almost worthless! The PTO side seal can be removed fairly easy with carefully drilling a small hole in the seal. Insert a deck screw and pull up on the screws head with pliers to remove. The armature side is tough one! I have used the Lisle #58430 seal puller with success on both the PTO and the armature side. As far as crankshaft splitting, the tools to do the job correctly and efficiently are pricey. You had better plan on doing a lot of saws to make them worth your while.
 
Save yourself some grief if you need a new air filter and avoid the Chinese after market. OEM is the only way to go for air filters, fuel and oil lines! I have bought the Chinese knock off Farmer Tech crank seal pullers. Almost worthless! The PTO side seal can be removed fairly easy with carefully drilling a small hole in the seal. Insert a deck screw and pull up on the screws head with pliers to remove. The armature side is tough one! I have used the Lisle #58430 seal puller with success on both the PTO and the armature side. As far as crankshaft splitting, the tools to do the job correctly and efficiently are pricey. You had better plan on doing a lot of saws to make them worth your while.

OEM 028 air filters NLA. You used to be able to still buy the separate halves.
 
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