The "Not So Pro" discussion thread...of course Pros are welcome!

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I mean, we're talking about a guy that just spent, way way too much money on a clapped out 064, because he thought he could resurrect it and have a low buck 90cc saw as a back up to an 066.

Granted its running awesome now and is trying real hard to be my main falling saw... but I'm not sayin I spent a bunch on parts... but i spent a bunch on parts...(hint just buy the stihl stuff, online used or nos=garbage)
 
It's simply a matter of convincing myself that a newer better one is worth the couple hundred. (and yes we've been down this road before...)

The horrible fright version is working, its noisy, cheap, ugly, and not exactly accurate, but it is working so therefore inside my thick skull its not broke and therefore doesn't need to be replaced.

Same goes with the Simington, its old, and not as adjustable as the new ones, or does it have the power to chooch through a nasty rocked or nailed chain, but it does work... and I have a spare motor for it... so chances are I'm stuck with it for life.

And lets be honest here, I would likely try and fix the stupid things before purchasing new. Probably with tin foil and duct tape. (or JB weld, and some homemade brushes).

I mean, i just welded a hydraulic cylinder, because I'm too cheap to buy a new one that likely won't have the same problem. (skidder blade, 2nd one in 2 years)
I understand how that goes I can't even remember the number of barrels I've welded up on that Fabtek head also JD cylinders, in 17k we are on the 3rd set of full cylinders but this set is built by someone else. Grinders mine is up there in age as well I just got lucky getting it handed down to me and with the amount of chains we do a week they all make sense, the HF ones honestly for the money are hard press to beat.

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I do rakers on a Northern Tool 511 knockoff. It's more than adequate. Same routine, set the depth on one raker with a gauge and then set the grinder to that depth. Saves a lot of time and heartache. I p[robably found the suggestion on this board somewhere, I don't remember. I've been doing it that way since I got the Silvey 510 to replace the NT as my main grinder, which had to be 2010 or so. Pretty sure it was the last 510 Madsen's sold new. I saw a used one there not long after and almost grabbed it but couldn't justify the 700 bones when I had one at work.
 
I do rakers on a Northern Tool 511 knockoff. It's more than adequate. Same routine, set the depth on one raker with a gauge and then set the grinder to that depth. Saves a lot of time and heartache. I p[robably found the suggestion on this board somewhere, I don't remember. I've been doing it that way since I got the Silvey 510 to replace the NT as my main grinder, which had to be 2010 or so. Pretty sure it was the last 510 Madsen's sold new. I saw a used one there not long after and almost grabbed it but couldn't justify the 700 bones when I had one at work.
Those 500 and 510 Silvey's are great grinders mine is a 15th anniversary edition if that gives you an idea on the age of it and still says Eagle Point on it. Parts for them I'm not sure what's available for them now but if it's like my Pro Sharp we'll all be in good shape for a long time.

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Cody's a good dude. He taught me a few very valuable tricks that I use all the time. Much respect.
Right on. What did he help you out with?
Yeah I read 5-6 pages of the beginning of the falling pic thread after seeing that pic and put 2 & 2 together. Same name, same build, same time and story. I would have guessed him to be about 28 to 31 in 2005; going back on memory.
 
Right on. What did he help you out with?

Best and most useful trick I learned from him was when wedging uphill against a lean, to put the back cut in first and get the wedges snug before putting the face cut in. Oh, and a different way to do the face on a sizwell. Dude knows his business and is humble as can be. Also he ground me the best chain I've ever had and I've never been able to match those angles somehow.
 
Ran to the county to holler about a permit this morning, put me on the landing at 11, just in time to catch the log truck, get kitted out and stomp into the bushes, where i fell one tree and lombed it 40' or so when the handle bars on the 064 died. One ******* tree and 150 miles on the crummy.... anyway some days ya don't win
 
I hope to soon be laid back and cashing royalty checks. More on that later. I took the afternoon off today to fall a few trees at a local park. Production cutter I could not be. Spent two hours to cut 15 or 20 trees. Spent forever it seemed trying to wedge over a 35' stunted plate size oak. You regulars here already know my disdain of (and ineptness at) falling little stuff.

I hesitate posting pictures 'cause bitzer is going to have heartburn seeing some nice hardwood on its way to a wood stove. But to ease his pain I will hasten to say, that given campers' propensity to drive hard objects into trees it is doubtful that a sawmill here would knowingly accept any that I cut today.

First five down. Three poplars and two nice red oaks. Notice that all water spigots, picnic tables and site posts are still intact.
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Not sure what flavor, but all spigots, tables and posts accounted for; ignore the fiber - just making a little kindling.
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Another nice red oak.
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It's closest kin and next door neighbor (about 3 feet between the two).
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It fell a little further to the right than I had anticipated but if you look close the spigot is still standing though straddled by the forked top.
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Only tree of the day that when haywire - small tree with an unintended dutchman and unintended sliced off hinge = fall 90* off. bitzer, that is a nice little white oak in the background. One of several I cut today.
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I could blame the dutchman on Stihl's useless dawg. It is too short to grip the tree. But the real reason is I am not steady enough to make deft pivoting cuts without using a dawg. So here I whacked off the inside of the hinge while pivoting. At least I didn't hurt my bar or breaking anything.

Ron
 
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