The Ochsenkopf "Big OX" Maul Review
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cus_deluxe
Commie Satan turd
nice looking maul! i definitely need an upgrade
blacklocst
ArboristSite Guru
Good review, that maul is so potent the you were able to split the chopping block also.
I have one. It is my "go to" maul. I have used it to strike a steel splitting wedge. I did not realize that is a big no no. I guess I'll have to get an aluminum wedge for times I don't have a sledge handy.
zogger
Tree Freak
Looks like a decent maul there. Retail cost?
I think I got mine for around $120 2 years ago from this outfit;
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/ox-head-big-ox-splitting-maul.aspx
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/ox-head-big-ox-splitting-maul.aspx
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
ox head makes the Stihl pa 80, looks just like that without the overstrike system. Although I thought it weighed 6.6 lbs. They work great. 80 bucks
zogger
Tree Freak
Been in there many times, bought tools and oddball pieces of exotic wood. An exceptionally nice store. Ain't *nuthin* cheap in that store, but everything is quality.
I believe they had the best price.
mn woodcutter
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks. Looks like a great maul.
zogger
Tree Freak
Could well be, don't know. I more meant, you didn't see any cheap junk in there, only top shelf tools and wood.
The handle on the PA 80 is smaller in diameter, then the Ox Head, the Ox Head is fatter in diameter. It is not just the over strike protector that is different. Same heads though, but that is about it.
I have a Ox Head, nice maul I bought it because of the over strike protector. But the handle on the PA 80 fits better in my hands,, at least and is more comfortable to use and control. I put up two cords with my Ox Head in late June early July, then went out and bought a splitter, have not touched it since. But either of them are nice mauls.
Who told you that? Because it's not true. Mauls are made of steel that is suitable for striking steel (e.g. a wedge) with the poll. Axes OTOH don't support that.
Of course, there's more to it. Among the quality mauls, there is a difference of metallurgy. Best steel I've encountered yet for these, is in the head of a Mueller (Austria) maul. It simply won't deform, no matter how violent the impacts it encounters. Really tough stuff.
Well, first off the guy in the video above. But probably more importantly, and where he may have gotten it from, is the Ochsenkopf website brochure:
For driving in wedges (only plastic or aluminium ones for safety reasons - no steel wedges),
the most suitable tool is the 3 kg BIG OX® splitting hammer. This is very much done to its
large striking surface head and the protective sleeve protecting the wooden handle below
the head from damage when striking is not always true.
the most suitable tool is the 3 kg BIG OX® splitting hammer. This is very much done to its
large striking surface head and the protective sleeve protecting the wooden handle below
the head from damage when striking is not always true.
Even your Mueller website says this:
Splitting maul „prime-type“ 0257
The ideal tool for splitting, and also for driving in plastic or aluminium felling wedges, and respectively aluminium wedges with wood and ring. This tool is more compact and is usually used with a slightly higher head weight.
They do sell a couple of wedges made from "high grade steel" but I don't see any mauls suited to strike them. There is only one sledge hammer that does not specifically say not to strike steel wedges.The ideal tool for splitting, and also for driving in plastic or aluminium felling wedges, and respectively aluminium wedges with wood and ring. This tool is more compact and is usually used with a slightly higher head weight.
The guy in the video, I wouldn't quote, I hope for obvious reasons. "My" Mueller website? Huh? Not.
I was basically quoting info in the catalog published by traditionalwoodworker dot com. Sole Mueller importer for USA. To wit: maul polls can be used to strike steel, axes not. Borne out by experience. They do not reference "0257", but "Biber" (Beaver). That maul has not been affected at all by hitting much steel. There are many obvious differences between the two mauls.
If curious, check out http://www.traditionalwoodworker.co...Hand-Forged-in-Austria/productinfo/367-92573/ and check out the bit about pounding wedges in the description.
Some cheapie mauls are questionable- mild steel being too malleable. Less likely to launch chips than harder/more-brittle steel.
The fact of the matter is that Ochsenkopf mauls specifically say NOT to strike steel wedges. Mueller mauls say plastic or aluminum wedges with no reference to steel. You asked where he got the info and I provided sources that back it up.
Yes, the website above says you can pound splitting wedges with a Mueller maul. It does not say steel wedges and in fact 3 of the 4 wedges they sell on the site are aluminum.
Fellas, I'm just trying to help by passing along the safety information from the Ochsenkopf website. You can do what you want, but I feel like it's important for me to tell you what they say about hitting steel on steel. I trust their information, they've been making forestry tools since 1781. This is a quote from their website...
- Never beat steel on steel (for example, hammer or axe against axe). Also steel wedges must be driven in only with a hard wood or plastic hammer. Beating steel on steel can lead to splintering and cause severe accidents.
- Aluminium and plastic wedges must be driven in with appropriate tools such as a splitting hammer. Only these tools are permanently suitable for driving in wedges due to their special design.
- Use tools only for their intended purpose. Example: using the axe as a hammer is not using it for its intended purpose.
- Check the tool before each use. There must be no material cracks on the head and handle. The head must be securely attached to the handle.
- Wear appropriate protective clothing, for example safety glasses, gloves and safety shoes.
zogger
Tree Freak
Ya, knotty pine sucks, especially when wet.
The wedge is interesting, never tried a twisty one or an aluminum one. I noticed you were using a light sledge, what happens if you wangorama on one of those with a two handed heavy sledge? Would it deform fast?
