Trouble with new Craftsman and Poulan chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Marine-piper

Homelite collector in training.☠
AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Jul 26, 2018
Messages
1,496
Reaction score
2,234
Location
USA
On my last nerve [emoji2959]!
I never seem to be able to get them running properly.
I have 60 old chainsaws that I have been able to get running flawlessly but put one of these saws on my bench and I become a complete idiot [emoji2957]
No matter what I do they all seem to have the same problem, starting and running.
They all have good compression and spark and no air leaks.
I read all the Walbro and Zama literature, adjust per their recommendations and [emoji2962]
I'm wondering if it has to do with the newer CARB compliant carbs? Oh and Ryobi too.
I'm just a celler tinkerer but have all the tools and equipment needed, obviously I'm lacking some knowledge in this area.
I'm going to have to read up some more on newer model carbs I guess[emoji53]
Any and all recommendations are appreciated guys.

Homelite collector in training [emoji879]
 
I bought one of the refurbished poulan 4218 units on ebay for $83. I had to replace the primer bulb, clean and rebuild the carburetor, and tune mine (set the high, low, and idle screws.) Now it runs, cuts, and does not shut off after each cut like it was doing! Also check the fuel lines and fuel filter to make sure they are in good shape. Also check the spark plug and set the gap to .025 to .028 inches.
One last thing I did with mine was get a couple loops of link lazer-x semi chisel chain for it on ebay. The safety chain that came with it is a backup chain now.
 
Just remember the settings are rich on those stratos saws. Go two to three rounds out from seated.
The new New craftsman saws at Lowes and other stores are MTD not Poulan.
Steve Sidwell
 
I can get them to run well but not as well as the better saws or older saws.
I have done everything possible to try and tube these carbs to run flawless but imo it just can’t be done. The problems I always end up with is either too rich or a low jet, or too lean, resulting in a delay in throttle response. I’ve found that these carbs need to have the idle screw open considerably in order to idle properly.

Just seems that the idle seems to wander and has a delay. I’m still screwing around with them but I’ve come to the semi conclusion that the zama carb for these models are ****. I was considering putting an actual walbro on one, but haven’t really checked to see what will fit.
There are other strato carbs that look to be made to work. Like the one from the rancher series. Even if the strato butterfly is the wrong size they are easily swapped onto other carbs.
 
I've done everything same as old saws, new fuel lines and filter and carb kit. Do a pop off test which is usually higher than old saws and have the W & Z lever tools.
I think it's like Steve said it has to be the H&L needles not being adjusted properly, obviously not 1 turn out like Walbro says.
Time to go read some more literature.

Homelite collector in training [emoji879]
 
My stratos model wild thing runs like a top. Got it from a fellow years ago. Said he was tired of messing with it. A quick muffler mod and richen up the carb some, runs great. I let me down once but that's because the fuel lines finally went out. Replaced all lines and primer bulb and was good to go again. Dad has a 32cc one that was a dog new, I fattened up the carb and it was a screamer. Never mess with the top butterfly, it's timed correctly for the system to work properly.

Steve Sidwell
 
ive been reading various posts for months now looking for answers. More than half the time i was able to figure things out from others wisdom. Im mechanically inclined but these small motors are a different animal. Ive been tring to stick to some of the same make saws looking to see similarities but i keep buying different brands just becausr its a solid model of the make.. You seem to lime the poulans so im asking for advice. I bought a dayton 17in 50+ year old saw pratically brand new. Poulan 361. So when i bought it im convinced old gas killed it. The put full choke on 1 pull and it would have kept running i believe if he would have slid the choke to half quickly. Thats how strong it turned over. After that it never started again. I toom the screws off the top of tge choke( first person to ever do that) and it loomed decent. I tired to force to to run by drowning it with starter fluid after changing tbe gas pf course. Unconventional buti gpt itto run without any good trigger response by running it with one carb screw removed. Basically i wad just able to keep it running. I cant even figure out how to remove the carb for cleaning. Its so clean from observing tge top that it doesnt need rebuilt. I know i seem like a lost cause but id appreciate if ypu could tell me something
 
ive been reading various posts for months now looking for answers. More than half the time i was able to figure things out from others wisdom. Im mechanically inclined but these small motors are a different animal. Ive been tring to stick to some of the same make saws looking to see similarities but i keep buying different brands just becausr its a solid model of the make.. You seem to lime the poulans so im asking for advice. I bought a dayton 17in 50+ year old saw pratically brand new. Poulan 361. So when i bought it im convinced old gas killed it. The put full choke on 1 pull and it would have kept running i believe if he would have slid the choke to half quickly. Thats how strong it turned over. After that it never started again. I toom the screws off the top of tge choke( first person to ever do that) and it loomed decent. I tired to force to to run by drowning it with starter fluid after changing tbe gas pf course. Unconventional buti gpt itto run without any good trigger response by running it with one carb screw removed. Basically i wad just able to keep it running. I cant even figure out how to remove the carb for cleaning. Its so clean from observing tge top that it doesnt need rebuilt. I know i seem like a lost cause but id appreciate if ypu could tell me something
 
My stratos model wild thing runs like a top. Got it from a fellow years ago. Said he was tired of messing with it. A quick muffler mod and richen up the carb some, runs great. I let me down once but that's because the fuel lines finally went out. Replaced all lines and primer bulb and was good to go again. Dad has a 32cc one that was a dog new, I fattened up the carb and it was a screamer. Never mess with the top butterfly, it's timed correctly for the system to work properly.

Steve Sidwell
Sidwell is this the same carb as the 3314. The zama w26?
 
Back
Top