Unhappy with Osburn 2200 woodstove

[DTB]

Hello All,

I bought a new Osburn 2200 woodstove about 4 years ago and had it professionally installed. I have always had an issue with a down draft when trying to fire-up the stove. I usually end up with smoke in the house. It is in my basement and there is a window near it that I usually open up to release pressure and get air flowing. The guy who installed it and myself do not see EYE TO EYE. He came over when we were having problems. He said that the wood needed to be inside the house for 3 days,too damp. It was dry. He said it was user error and I was not starting it right. I have been using stoves all of my life. Lastly, he said the stove was designed poorly. Enough said. There is stainless Simpson pipe running the outside of my house. I believe the problem is that it gets cold. Also, I am on the end of a culdesack down in a hole. Which could also be the problem. The stove only has 3 hour burn times at the most!! This is an issue. I am having an issue now where the coals are not combusting enough. Usually when this happens, it means the pipe needs to be cleaned. I just cleaned the whole sytem in November. The stove has not been heating the house properly with it being very cold lately. It is rated for 2,000 square feet. I have a ranch house that is about 1640 square feet not including the basement. Does anyone have any insight or helpful information. Thanks.

 

[blades]

Cold down draft on basement install very common, window not withstanding, cure by using a hair dryer or heat gun for a bit before lighting off stove. You need to get that flue warmed up some first. If it is not achieving heat it is more than likely that the fuel supply is the culprit, wood can feel dry on out side and still be way to much moisture content internally. So before you go off on rant again get a moisture meter, they can be had for $30 or less. Re-split several pieces of your fuel and use meter to check internal moisture content. To get you going more immediately, Buy some of the compressed wood logs use a couple of those with your current fuel and split you current stuff smaller. You could also scrounge up old pallets and bust those up to mix in they are very dry so again not by them selves but mixed.

Never ever allow your self to be duped by firewood suppliers that say their wood is seasoned, That is the same as saying the wind doesn't blow in Kansas. If they are selling kiln dried then maybe.

Wood really doesn't start to dry until split, some types will be ok for use a year after that, others like OAK will take a minimum of 2 likely three years to be less than 20% moisture content internally. Around here there sellers build up big mounds of splits during the summer and sell it in fall, that isn't dry nor even close to being seasoned. and no it doesn't dry cut into big rounds either.

You might want to apologize to your installer as well , just sayin.

 

[Chris-PA]

Is the flue pipe insulated? Even so I read ranch house = short external flue, possible uninsulated = not enough draft. These newer stoves with a secondary combustion system need a strong draft to burn right. If there is not enough draft you don't get enough air velocity coming out of the air manifold outlet holes and it just burns lazy.

 

[sunfish]

You have a very good stove! But it needs a strong draft and Very Dry wood!

 

[DTB]

Cold down draft on basement install very common, window not withstanding, cure by using a hair dryer or heat gun for a bit before lighting off stove. You need to get that flue warmed up some first. If it is not achieving heat it is more than likely that the fuel supply is the culprit, wood can feel dry on out side and still be way to much moisture content internally. So before you go off on rant again get a moisture meter, they can be had for $30 or less. Re-split several pieces of your fuel and use meter to check internal moisture content. To get you going more immediately, Buy some of the compressed wood logs use a couple of those with your current fuel and split you current stuff smaller. You could also scrounge up old pallets and bust those up to mix in they are very dry so again not by them selves but mixed.

Never ever allow your self to be duped by firewood suppliers that say their wood is seasoned, That is the same as saying the wind doesn't blow in Kansas. If they are selling kiln dried then maybe.

Wood really doesn't start to dry until split, some types will be ok for use a year after that, others like OAK will take a minimum of 2 likely three years to be less than 20% moisture content internally. Around here there sellers build up big mounds of splits during the summer and sell it in fall, that isn't dry nor even close to being seasoned. and no it doesn't dry cut into big rounds either.

You might want to apologize to your installer as well , just sayin.

I process my own wood. It has been split, stacked and dry for a year or more depending on species.

 

[DTB]

Is the flue pipe insulated? Even so I read ranch house = short external flue, possible uninsulated = not enough draft. These newer stoves with a secondary combustion system need a strong draft to burn right. If there is not enough draft you don't get enough air velocity coming out of the air manifold outlet holes and it just burns lazy.

The pipe is Simpson double wall insulated. The flue is pretty high. I tried putting a piece of black 24' pipe extension on to the current pipe and it did not help

 

[Fyrebug]

I burn the 1800 which is the smaller version of the 2200. We make that brand and the 2200 is our best seller.

Could you please provide the following information?

* Is your chimney 6" inside diameter HT2100?
* If not and you are inside a masonry chimney, do you have a 6" liner installed all the way up the chimney? Is so is it an insulated liner?
* What is the overall lenght of your chimney?
* What is the moisture level of your wood in %?
* Please describe your fire starting procedure, diameter of your logs etc...
* What is the age of your house, insulation level and how air tight.

You indicate your problem improve when you open a door or window which is an indication your house is under negative pressure.

If you can provide that information, we can be reasonably confident we can pinpoint where the problem is at...

All the best

 

[stihly dan]

A couple more things, if the draft is not good you should be getting longer burns not shorter. AND, if the stove is rated for 2000 sq ft, and in the basement, a 1640 sq ft ranch is really a 3280 sq ft ranch. ( so stove way to small) Is the basement insulated? I would say insulate basement, enclose your chimney with insulated wall, add a section of chimney. Or best move stove to 1 st floor, and add a section of chimney, insulate chimney.

 

[Ayatollah]

I knew you would be hearing from Fyrebug :msp_biggrin:


We have the 2200 also, and although it's attractive as hell, it's prettier than it is a performer. It's very tempermental, and has quite a few quirks. We get smoke in the house about half the time you open the door to reload. That slanted front is the most obvious suspect. Once the door is opened and the smoke starts escaping the door, the heat follows and compounds the escape. I installed a damper recently, but it was mainly due to our two story installation, and my inability to control the draft after the fire was built and hot. The reverse is true when it's cold. The cold air is falling down and gaining momentum when you're trying to start it. Openeing a door...but close to the stove...helps...sometimes. I often use some very light dry paper on the top of our kindling first, and then light the bottom. The unit doesn't perform well with borderline wood. It needs the very best. It's often up to chance, just like making a good salad, when all your ingredients are at peak ripeness, everything comes together and you get an excellent burn.
My advice to you is to experiment with all the advice given, and keep a log of it. And one last thing. This unit performs admirably when you have dry wood, fair draft, and low ash. As the ash builds, the efficiency seems to drop all around. I empty the ash every other day now. We're warmer, but I have to vaccuum more often

 

[Fyrebug]

Well as I said, I am burning the 1800 which is a smaller version than the 2200 and not as performing. I have never had a back draft problem...

The 2200 is Osburn's best seller and If the unit had the issues you mentioned 1) I would know about it 2) We'd stop selling it. As it is our President burned the 2200 for many years and in his opinion is one of our best firebox and best performer.

Finally at their most basic all wood stoves are black square boxes made of metal. They have no means of exhausting gases other than a weak natural physical property call 'draft'.

If you have a drafting problem you do not have a stove problem but a draft problem. You need to fix the draft problem not the stove. I would be willing to bet any amount of beer you will have identical problems if you were to put any other high-efficiency insert in there. How do I know this? All MFG's have the same problem with users who do not understand drafting. We all go at great length to explain it in our manual, web sites etc...

So repeat after me... I have a drafting problem and want to bring it under control. :msp_confused:

If you guys can answer the questions above we are well on our way to a ten step drafting recovery program..

 

[Wazzu]

I process my own wood. It has been split, stacked and dry for a year or more depending on species.

One year old wood, if cut green probably is not dry enough.

 

[Ayatollah]

The 2200 is Osburn's best seller and If the unit had the issues you mentioned 1) I would know about it 2) We'd stop selling it. As it is our President burned the 2200 for many years and in his opinion is one of our best firebox and best performer...

And a while back, you indicated you would hook me up with the part number for those washers to fix my door sagging problem. Or is there a recovery program I need to be enrolled in for that too? :msp_biggrin:

 

[bigbadbob]

I have an Osburn. At my cabin and I forget the model but it is fairly big, takes 18 inch wood. About 3 years old.
My setup is very close to yours.
Yes if it has sat a few day its a bear to light. I do have a fresh air inlet ,as its the code.
Once going it works very and I get 9 or more hours burn time with dry fir, in freezing temperatures.
Heating 1300 sq ft or more. The stove is dampened almost fully, knob might be out 1/4 inch.
My only complaint with the stove is the damper lever( the one top near the back on the left) is different than the manual, I used a soapstone and marked it correct.
BBBl

 

[jrider]

Cold down draft on basement install very common, window not withstanding, cure by using a hair dryer or heat gun for a bit before lighting off stove. You need to get that flue warmed up some first. If it is not achieving heat it is more than likely that the fuel supply is the culprit, wood can feel dry on out side and still be way to much moisture content internally. So before you go off on rant again get a moisture meter, they can be had for $30 or less. Re-split several pieces of your fuel and use meter to check internal moisture content. To get you going more immediately, Buy some of the compressed wood logs use a couple of those with your current fuel and split you current stuff smaller. You could also scrounge up old pallets and bust those up to mix in they are very dry so again not by them selves but mixed.

Never ever allow your self to be duped by firewood suppliers that say their wood is seasoned, That is the same as saying the wind doesn't blow in Kansas. If they are selling kiln dried then maybe.

Wood really doesn't start to dry until split, some types will be ok for use a year after that, others like OAK will take a minimum of 2 likely three years to be less than 20% moisture content internally. Around here there sellers build up big mounds of splits during the summer and sell it in fall, that isn't dry nor even close to being seasoned. and no it doesn't dry cut into big rounds either.

You might want to apologize to your installer as well , just sayin.

I love how people jump to the conclusion some firewood guy sold him wood that wasn't seasoned. There may be crooks and liars out there who sell wood but there are plenty of guys who are honest dealers.

 

[stihly dan]

Well as I said, I am burning the 1800 which is a smaller version than the 2200 and not as performing. I have never had a back draft problem...

The 2200 is Osburn's best seller and If the unit had the issues you mentioned 1) I would know about it 2) We'd stop selling it. As it is our President burned the 2200 for many years and in his opinion is one of our best firebox and best performer.

Finally at their most basic all wood stoves are black square boxes made of metal. They have no means of exhausting gases other than a weak natural physical property call 'draft'.

If you have a drafting problem you do not have a stove problem but a draft problem. You need to fix the draft problem not the stove. I would be willing to bet any amount of beer you will have identical problems if you were to put any other high-efficiency insert in there. How do I know this? All MFG's have the same problem with users who do not understand drafting. We all go at great length to explain it in our manual, web sites etc...

So repeat after me... I have a drafting problem and want to bring it under control. :msp_confused:

If you guys can answer the questions above we are well on our way to a ten step drafting recovery program..

My old EPA stove had a huge drafting problem. Did everything under the sun to fix it. Nothing worked. Then I hooked up another EPA stove and there where no issues. I do believe certain stoves in certain applications are the problem. May not be in this case or most cases, but it DOES happen.

 

[Fyrebug]

And a while back, you indicated you would hook me up with the part number for those washers to fix my door sagging problem. Or is there a recovery program I need to be enrolled in for that too? :msp_biggrin:

PM me your info with the name of the dealer you bought it from.

 

[Fyrebug]

My old EPA stove had a huge drafting problem. Did everything under the sun to fix it. Nothing worked. Then I hooked up another EPA stove and there where no issues. I do believe certain stoves in certain applications are the problem. May not be in this case or most cases, but it DOES happen.

Understood, but please realize i've been doing this for a while. I'm not saying what you say is not true but there are too many variables which you did not mentioned and frankly I wouldnt be able to troubleshoot until I went to your place and eyeball the situation. (Beer's on you BTW).

Let just say that 99.9% of the time drafting is caused by something else than the stove...

 

[DTB]

I burn the 1800 which is the smaller version of the 2200. We make that brand and the 2200 is our best seller.

Could you please provide the following information?

* Is your chimney 6" inside diameter HT2100?
* If not and you are inside a masonry chimney, do you have a 6" liner installed all the way up the chimney? Is so is it an insulated liner?
* What is the overall lenght of your chimney?
* What is the moisture level of your wood in %?
* Please describe your fire starting procedure, diameter of your logs etc...
* What is the age of your house, insulation level and how air tight.





You indicate your problem improve when you open a door or window which is an indication your house is under negative pressure.

If you can provide that information, we can be reasonably confident we can pinpoint where the problem is at...

All the best

My chimney is on the outside of my house. It is a double/triple walled Simpson stainless pipe.

It is approximately 17.5 feet tall.

My house was built in 78".

My basement where the stove is at was refinished and insulated.

My firewood is one or more years split and dried. It is burnt depending on species and time needed to season properly.

My proceedure is to open the vent all the way to the right. I then used small kinling and splitter scraps to start the fire with paper. I start it in the back like the manual said. The window next to the stove is opened to start it. I keep the door open a qurater of the way to get enough air. This usually still does not work and the house fills up ith smoke even with the window open. (this is on a cold start)

I cleaned the chimney today. It had a lot of chocolate brown dust and little granuals of creosote, but hardly any creosote.

I also have the same problem with my door not aligning right. After awhile it will start to grind and the handle will not turn. I then have to oil it to get it to work.

Once the stove is going, I have to damper it to mid way or the pipe will not heat up. It takes a long time fully open or will only go up to 3 hundred degrees fully open.

All in all, a basic stove like this should not be this finicky to operate. I wish that another brand was purchased. I liked the looks of the stove and the nice view of the fire, that is why I bought it. I wish I could do it all over again. :frown:

 

[Fyrebug]

My chimney is on the outside of my house. It is a double/triple walled Simpson stainless pipe. So you have a Triple wall air cooled chimney? with no packed insulation? So tell me, When it's -40 outside, what is the temperature of the chimney on start up? And how long will it take to warm it up and keep it warm? While air cooled chimney are less expensive they are also much more difficult to get up to temp and stay there. Ie. more difficult to get drafting.

You also did not indicate what is the ID of your chimney. If it's above 6" look no further... It's your problem right there. It should be 6" from the top of the insert all the way to the chimney cap.

It is approximately 17.5 feet tall.

My house was built in 78".

My basement where the stove is at was refinished and insulated.

My firewood is one or more years split and dried. It is burnt depending on species and time needed to season properly. What is the humidity level in %? My wood is dry doesnt count :biggrin:

My proceedure is to open the vent all the way to the right. I then used small kinling and splitter scraps to start the fire with paper. I start it in the back like the manual said. The window next to the stove is opened to start it. I keep the door open a qurater of the way to get enough air. This usually still does not work and the house fills up ith smoke even with the window open. (this is on a cold start) That's a dead giveaway of a drafting problem. What are the biggest splits you put on the fire?

I cleaned the chimney today. It had a lot of chocolate brown dust and little granuals of creosote, but hardly any creosote.

I also have the same problem with my door not aligning right. After awhile it will start to grind and the handle will not turn. I then have to oil it to get it to work. Door alignement is often due to the unit not levelled. Did you install the leveling bolts and did you level the unit as per the manual's instruction?

Once the stove is going, I have to damper it to mid way or the pipe will not heat up. It takes a long time fully open or will only go up to 3 hundred degrees fully open.Something not right there... The hotter you burn the hotter your chimney will become. Simple laws of physics. Need ID of Chimney.

All in all, a basic stove like this should not be this finicky to operate. I wish that another brand was purchased. I liked the looks of the stove and the nice view of the fire, that is why I bought it. I wish I could do it all over again. :frown:

Guys, I dont know how to say this without being rude.... You have a drafting problem... Please look at my notes above.

It's too easy to look at the stove when in effect it is the chimney that drives draft. The insert is absolutely not finicky. With all due respect you are 100% wrong on this. Upteen thousands of users of that model will prove you wrong.

Now all together, put your right hand on the Bible and repeat after me... "I have a drafting problem..."

 

[DTB]

Guys, I dont know how to say this without being rude.... You have a drafting problem... Please look at my notes above.

It's too easy to look at the stove when in effect it is the chimney that drives draft. The insert is absolutely not finicky. With all due respect you are 100% wrong on this. Upteen thousands of users of that model will prove you wrong.

Now all together, put your right hand on the Bible and repeat after me... "I have a drafting problem..."

This is the 2200 pedestal model that starts with a 6" flue all the way up to the chimney cap. It was leveled by the installers, because I asked them about it and after they installed it. I then checked it. It did not come with leveling bolts. Right now it has so many coals in the stove yet the pipe is on 350. There is no more room to put any wood. It is not combusting properly.