want a outdoor forced air wood furnace

[babetheblueox]

I see a lot of wood furnaces used outdoors what are some of the better ones I don't what a boiler:confused2:

 

[woodcutter69]

shaver makes one now, there are also bryan, fire chief. and airstove. them are the ones im familiar with. also looking myself to replace the lil house i got now.

 

[mizzou]

I'm interested also. I dont understand why they don't qualify for the energy tax credit though.(Shaver anyway) I don't have any experience with any outside wood heating system, but these appear much simpler than the boiler type to use and maintain. The Shaver seemed better than the airstove since it can be located away from the house and better built. But this is just from looking at the 2 websites.

 

[mustangwagz]

i to was gonna get one..i started a thread about it here somewhere i think..i got ALOT of pictures from different users who made their own. Seems that you can build one cheaper than buying one.. Just basically build a shed around your existing add on wood furnace and insulate the crap outta the shed. then either force the air in through pipes underground OR through a hole in your wall. Im still trying to decide which method to use. Uhh, US stove makes one too, and for that particular version, i went n seen one in person, it EATS the hell outta wood too from what i understand..so i dunno.. I kinda figured a forced air, out door burner would. Takes a hell of alot of heat to make it warm enough to pass air through outdoor temps, and then inside to the house and still be warm..so makes sense really. not quite sure what ill do yet, if anything..but ill keep an eye on your thread!

 

[CrappieKeith]

Just basically build a shed around your existing add on wood furnace and insulate the crap outta the shed. then either force the air in through pipes underground OR through a hole in your wall. Uhh, US stove makes one too, and for that particular version, i went n seen one in person, it EATS the hell outta wood too from what i understand..so i dunno.. I kinda figured a forced air, out door burner would. Takes a hell of alot of heat to make it warm enough to pass air through outdoor temps, and then inside to the house and still be warm..so makes sense really. not quite sure what ill do yet, if anything..but ill keep an eye on your thread!

Where to start with this one...oh ya...a US Stove ate wood...of course...they are not very efficient to start with. Then add in that it's suffering major heat loss like any wood burner would outside...add in ducting causing more heat loss that is outside.
It's not the best choice albeit it is a choice. If this was a something I'd do I'd certainly tryto get my furnace as close to the home as possible. Insulate the crap out of the ducting making sure nothing could flame up.I'd put it in an oversized shed and insulate the crap out of it too.Then I'd install the most efficient wood burner I could find and most likely oversize it some and make darn sure I had a big enough blower.

 

[mdotis]

I made my own.

I did make an outdoor forced air stove. The biggest advice I would have is to over size the blower. And by this I mean way over size the blower. The second thing I did that works well is to move the air underground through inslated plastic culverts. I lose a little heat but not really all that much. The snow does not really melt over the culverts under the ground so it cannot be to bad. The next big thing to think of is how far from the house does your insurance company want this to be. Mine was over 10 feet. Anything over 10 feet they did not care to much about. So I put mine 20 feet from the house.

Hope that helps
Korey

 

[mizzou]

Where to start with this one...oh ya...a US Stove ate wood...of course...they are not very efficient to start with. Then add in that it's suffering major heat loss like any wood burner would outside...add in ducting causing more heat loss that is outside.
It's not the best choice albeit it is a choice. If this was a something I'd do I'd certainly tryto get my furnace as close to the home as possible. Insulate the crap out of the ducting making sure nothing could flame up.I'd put it in an oversized shed and insulate the crap out of it too.Then I'd install the most efficient wood burner I could find and most likely oversize it some and make darn sure I had a big enough blower.

So Keith, are you saying any of the outside forced air instalations are more inefficient than an indoor installation or only the U.S. stove. If I could I would put an add on to my existing furnace, but no flue and not a good place to put a flue.

 

[CrappieKeith]

So Keith, are you saying any of the outside forced air instalations are more inefficient than an indoor installation or only the U.S. stove. If I could I would put an add on to my existing furnace, but no flue and not a good place to put a flue.

USS does not make very efficient furnaces to begin with,but any outside installation will be less efficient hence the reasoning in all of the insulation to avoid as much heat loss as possible for the furnace and ducting.
that is why I also had said to oversize the unit. To put on in a shed and have it directly connected to the back of the home would be the next best....the further it gets from the home the longer your duct work will be giving more heat oppertunity to be lost.

 

[mdotis]

I agree

Keith, I agree completly. With the unit I built I do lose heat. No question about that at all. However I do not have to worry about a fire in the house. I do not have to move the wood into the house and cause a mess. I do however have to go outside before bed and fire the stove. Not always fun when it is -20 here in minnesota. Also when it is very very cold I have to get up about 2:00 am and go outside again to fire the stove. Never fun to get dressed at 2:00 am go outside in -20 degree weather just to spend 5 minutes filling the stove and then try to get back to sleep. Do I like my setup? Yes. Is it for everyone? no, my wife would not fire it at all if I were not around. If you do not like to go to the basement/other room and fire the stove in the middle of the night do not put one outside. If you do make sure it is way over sized like Keith suggests so you do not have to make so many trips outside. Also a way to adjust the draft from inside would cut down on a lot of trips outside. And in the fall/spring when it is muddy a cement walk to the stove would be great.

 

[pook]

iN A WELL INSULATED SHED, COMBUSTION AIR REQUIREMENTS HAVE TO BE CONSIDERED.....oops caps

 

[deutzman]

I built a system like that back in 1983. Tore it all out last summer and installed a central boiler. It served me well over those years. I first built a cinderblock building for the stove and wood. Tied in to the duct work in the house and tied into the return so I could heat the air from the house and blow it back in. I used regular red brick to enclose the wood stove. For the top of the enclosure I offset one row of brick near the top and set a steel plate to fit the hole. Then added fiberglass insulation and another plate on top of it. With the blower running the brick was only warm if I had to keep a really hot fire going. Main heat loss was from the stove door and the pipe.

I used a 2,100 cfm blower mounted on the outside of the brick and fan box around it. The air went in under the stove and came out the other side neat the top to the duct. Negatives: on very cold spells I'd have to refill with wood about every 4 hours. Night and day. Wide regular stove dampers it would get to hot in the house on warmer days. Hard to regulate temp. If the power went out and the dampers were open it could over heat because the blower wasn't running. So the dampers had to be shut off then.

Positives: I could dry wood in the building from heat loss from the door and pipe so it wasn't all wasted. The door was 15 ft. from my back door so didn't have to keep wood in the house. Chimney fire wasn't as bad as if in the house. Just let it burn and keep an eye on it. Cost to build was pretty cheap. Little to no maintenance other than oiling the bearings for the blower and a new belt about every 8 years or so.

I had a mechanical arm thermostat in the duct just outside the brick enclosure and it would only allow the blower to run if there was enough heat in the system. So if the fire go low it wouldn't blow cold air in the house.

I heated a 2,200 sq. ft. house that was built in 1917 for all those years. I did use LP gas for backup and for those extreme cold spells to help out. But for normal winter weather in this area the wood heat worked just fine.

I liked the old system and got the satisfaction that it worked so well for all those years. BUT I love my Central Boiler and the freedom of sleeping all night long and not having to bother about the fire going out or the house being cold in the morning. Money was a factor all those years so I did what I had to do and it worked great. If I had the money I'd take the OWB over it any day.:msp_wink:

 

[CrappieKeith]

I don't want to :deadhorse: but we must keep in mind where the posters lives when they tell their stories.
Heat loads in states like Va,Ga,Mo,Ky and the like have low heat loads.
The same size home in Mn,Wi,Mi,Vt or the like will take way more heat to keep the homes at the same temp.

 

[Stihl Rules]

I bought the Sure Flame 6000. They are made in Huntington, IN. It has been a great investment so far my house stayed 66 degrees last winter with $450 electric bills and I burned wood every evening and all weekend. This winter was an unusually cold one in my area and my highest electric bill was $150. I do wish I would have had enough money at the time to get the boiler that will save another $25 - $40 a month for heating water. Here is a link to the stove I have: Sure Flame 6000 Outside Wood Stove
I have a local dealer 3 miles from my house and pretty much everyone in this area have one and love them. I used about 12 trucks of wood this year not sure the amount is cords.:msp_biggrin:

 

[asg13]

Ttt. Im looking hard at the hopsco and fire chief units any infoplease i know most here are owb fans but my finances jus cant afford it

 

[Themasklady]

I just hooked up a forced air wood-burning furnace. I've been learning a lot and realize that this was actually meant to be inside it's working okay but I know that it needs to be insulated around the Heat box what would I use for that? I've used R6 thermaflo flexi duck to get it into the house and it seems to be working okay but I'd like to improve it. This is far from ideal until I can hook up to ductwork in basement this summer.

 

[cantoo]

1st thing to do is to check with your insurance company. They can be pretty picking on what they will cover. Then check your local Building dept. they also can be a pain in the azz.

 

[dave_dj1]

I just hooked up a forced air wood-burning furnace. I've been learning a lot and realize that this was actually meant to be inside it's working okay but I know that it needs to be insulated around the Heat box what would I use for that? I've used R6 thermaflo flexi duck to get it into the house and it seems to be working okay but I'd like to improve it. This is far from ideal until I can hook up to ductwork in basement this summer. View attachment 623685 View attachment 623685

The first thing I would do is build a fireproof base for it, then frame up an enclosure with some steel studs (if I had to do mine again I would use 6" studs instead of 3.5" for more insulation) then insulate it with roxul and then some metal roofing for the sides and roof. I sued a regular squirrel cage blower from a full size hot air furnace, I now have two of these units and love them both! One for my house and one at my garage. It's 20 below here this morning, my house is 70* at 5 am , I loaded the stove at 9:00 last evening. I can routinely get 9-12 hrs out of it in "normal" weather. I cut all my wood at 24" even though the firebox will take up to 38" . I have vowed to cut some 30" wood (my splitter will accept 31") for next winter when it get's real cold.

 

[Themasklady]

The first thing I would do is build a fireproof base for it, then frame up an enclosure with some steel studs (if I had to do mine again I would use 6" studs instead of 3.5" for more insulation) then insulate it with roxul and then some metal roofing for the sides and roof. I sued a regular squirrel cage blower from a full size hot air furnace, I now have two of these units and love them both! One for my house and one at my garage. It's 20 below here this morning, my house is 70* at 5 am , I loaded the stove at 9:00 last evening. I can routinely get 9-12 hrs out of it in "normal" weather. I cut all my wood at 24" even though the firebox will take up to 38" . I have vowed to cut some 30" wood (my splitter will accept 31") for next winter when it get's real cold.

THANK you!!

 

[cornfused]

DJ1
What is the make of you units and are they designed for your application??
Thanks!!!

 

[NSMaple1]

I just hooked up a forced air wood-burning furnace. I've been learning a lot and realize that this was actually meant to be inside it's working okay but I know that it needs to be insulated around the Heat box what would I use for that? I've used R6 thermaflo flexi duck to get it into the house and it seems to be working okay but I'd like to improve it. This is far from ideal until I can hook up to ductwork in basement this summer. View attachment 623685 View attachment 623685

My insurance agent would have a stroke if he saw that hooked up to my house.