Lakeside53's --361 muffler mod w/photos

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So do I - but I will put the "Andy muffler" on it this year.......:)

So that is where Andy disappeared to.
Is he on his way to your place to finally get that muffler on your saw, so that the rest of us can finaly get an experts unbiased fact based opinion of the Mod? :givebeer:
 
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So do I - but I will put the "Andy muffler" on it this year.......:)

I finally got around to it last saturday.

After a good warm-up session, before and after cuts were made in 11 and 14" birch, and my counting (no stop-watch or video) indicate a 10-15 percent speed gain. :clap::clap:

The cuts were made with a 15" bar, 36RSC, 8-pin rim, at 14500rpm WOT settings.

I experiensed little or no sound gain - which is a bit surpricing.....
 
We need a volunteer to send SawTroll an unmodified American muffler so he can experience a choked up saw. :hmm3grin2orange:


Since you experienced no gain in sound, I assume that the modified American muffler was opened up to be about the same as an unmodified European Muffler.


But since you experience a gain in cutting speed,
this is a sure sign that you are going DEAF :monkey:
 
We need a volunteer to send SawTroll an unmodified American muffler so he can experience a choked up saw. :hmm3grin2orange:


Since you experienced no gain in sound, I assume that the modified American muffler was opened up to be about the same as an unmodified European Muffler.


But since you experience a gain in cutting speed,
this is a sure sign that you are going DEAF :monkey:

You are right that my 361 is a German made Euro one, and was not as choked up as the stock US ones. The cylinder has a different part number, as well as the muffler.

It ran pretty "entusiastic" as it was, but there still was a gain......:rockn::rockn:
 
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i have a question about modding my ms 250. i recently retired my old one, so its a parts saw. i'm planning on modding the muffler a bit from the old one and swapping it out on the new one, so if i mess up, i can fall back on the factory muffler. this is my plan, i'm half done already. i dont have pics yet so bare with me while i try to describe it. i started by removing the bracket on the front, it has three vents that angle towards the bar. i took a scrench and made all 3 about twice or 3 times as wide. on the inside of the factory baffle, there's only a staggered grid of about 15 holes on the topside of it. muffler is crimped together and i didnt want to mess with that, instead i've drilled 10 additional holes, 5 on each of 2 sides of the baffle, by going through the side of the muffler. (yes there's holes in the muffler now) i plan on tacking the holes shut when i'm done. the holes are roughly the same size as the ones from the factory. the hole behind the bracket with the vents is about 1/2 inch or so, i'll drill that out some more and i'll be done. also putting the spark arrester screen back and blowing the bits of metal out of it.

any problems with what i'm doing so far? or something else i need to do also?
 
i have a question about modding my ms 250. i recently retired my old one, so its a parts saw. i'm planning on modding the muffler a bit from the old one and swapping it out on the new one, so if i mess up, i can fall back on the factory muffler. this is my plan, i'm half done already. i dont have pics yet so bare with me while i try to describe it. i started by removing the bracket on the front, it has three vents that angle towards the bar. i took a scrench and made all 3 about twice or 3 times as wide. on the inside of the factory baffle, there's only a staggered grid of about 15 holes on the topside of it. muffler is crimped together and i didnt want to mess with that, instead i've drilled 10 additional holes, 5 on each of 2 sides of the baffle, by going through the side of the muffler. (yes there's holes in the muffler now) i plan on tacking the holes shut when i'm done. the holes are roughly the same size as the ones from the factory. the hole behind the bracket with the vents is about 1/2 inch or so, i'll drill that out some more and i'll be done. also putting the spark arrester screen back and blowing the bits of metal out of it.

any problems with what i'm doing so far? or something else i need to do also?

reposting since noone's answering in other post:(
 
muffler mod on a 028wb

I have a 028 wood boss.I want to try a muffler mod. Would it be worth my wile to mod the muffler on this size saw? If so, just exactly what would I have to do.What size holes would it take? First time on this site,glad to be here! Thanks
 
okay, I didnt want to start another thead on modding a 361, but anyway. without touching the stock port, how big of a hole should be made in to 361 for max gain?
 
I just finished modding a 028 wood boss. I ported it ,took out the base gasket ,and modded the muffler. Its hard to tell how much I gained with the muffler mod since I did all of this at one time. These mufflers are easy to mod just take the front cover off and if you look inside you will see that there is a lot of space post spark arrestor. All I did was drill in from the outside through 4 of the holes in the heat shield that will end up in the same cavity as the stock exit port.
 
So tonight I did it. MS260 muffler mod, including new 194 carb. That was easy. Including re-soldering the wire for the kill switch I broke doing the carb and tuning the thing at least a bit, it took about an hour. Sounds great, should have done this a long time ago. Can't wait to try it in a piece of oak tomorrow.

I calculated 80% of my exhaust port area at 0.40 in^2. Used an end mill in a drill press to enlarge the existing port (maybe 5/16 dia max = .077 in^2). Also opened up the baffle on the other side of the screen a bit, although it wasn't as bad. Screen still fits and seals. Piece of cake.

Hoping someone at the GTG this weekend in WV can check my tuning though. Think I'm getting better, but would like to calibrate against a tach or a more experienced ear.

Sorry for the cellphone quality pics....

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So tonight I did it. MS260 muffler mod, including new 194 carb. That was easy. Including re-soldering the wire for the kill switch I broke doing the carb and tuning the thing at least a bit, it took about an hour. Sounds great, should have done this a long time ago. Can't wait to try it in a piece of oak tomorrow.

I calculated 80% of my exhaust port area at 0.40 in^2. Used an end mill in a drill press to enlarge the existing port (maybe 5/16 dia max = .077 in^2). Also opened up the baffle on the other side of the screen a bit, although it wasn't as bad. Screen still fits and seals. Piece of cake.

Hoping someone at the GTG this weekend in WV can check my tuning though. Think I'm getting better, but would like to calibrate against a tach or a more experienced ear.

This saw flat out RIPS. I really was surprised how well this saw runs! I think I need to go find an 026 or 260 and do the same. Now I am surprised there isn't a blueprint that you've drawn up in your spare time to act as an aid for others!
:chainsaw:
 
This saw flat out RIPS. I really was surprised how well this saw runs! I think I need to go find an 026 or 260 and do the same. Now I am surprised there isn't a blueprint that you've drawn up in your spare time to act as an aid for others!
:chainsaw:

Thanks, glad you liked it. I'm pretty happy with the results, although now I want to try someone's ported 260 to compare.

Ummm, as for blueprint that opening is made with a half inch endmill, so 1/2" wide by 1" long. A second 1/2" hole is put through the first baffle. Other than that a new 194 carb and used Ryan's tach to set WOT at about 13,500. The rest is stock.
 
I ran that saw at the gtg also and would have to agree it was pretty darn impressive. I have ran an old 026 at work that me and the mechanic did a lil muff mod on and i can say that your ms260 runs way better than an 026. If i were you chris the hell with the 026 and snag an ms260 and thats coming from a husky fan lol.:chainsaw:
 
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