Bar rails - grind or finished?

[KMB]

This is the 16” bar that was on the Stihl 028WB that I am tuning up for my friend and his brother. I hope the picture is clear enough. I think it's worse than the picture shows.

I’m wondering if grinding down the bar rail, so that it is level with the other rail, is worth getting done. Or is the bar finished. I know of a OPE dealer that grinds bar rails. The sprocket nose is fine.

Kevin

 

[stinkbait]

If it were me, I would just get a new bar. That one looks like your buddy got his money's worth out of it.

 

[Boogieman142]

looks like he needs to use oil, or more of it as the rails are blue. But me, as long as the sprocket is ok and the grooves are ok, i'd grind it (actually i'd use a bench grinder and file to make it ok, and some sandpaper to smooth it out but i'm cheap and like doing my own stuff)

 

[nmurph]

would it leave enough rail so that the DL's don't touch the bottom of the groove? you also need to consider the width of the groove. is it wallowed out to the point that the chain flops to the side?

that bar has gotten hot bf...

i would not spend a dime on that bar. but some people might need to spend a few dollars to get a little more life out of that bar.

 

[KMB]

If it were me, I would just get a new bar. That one looks like your buddy got his money's worth out of it.

I have a new 18" bar and 2 new chains for this saw (I know 16" would be better, but they want the 18"). The 16" bar would be a back-up...for when/if they pinch the 18" bar (and have only one saw with them), they could take the power head off and use the 16" to free the 18".

Kevin

 

[KMB]

looks like he needs to use oil, or more of it as the rails are blue. But me, as long as the sprocket is ok and the grooves are ok, i'd grind it (actually i'd use a bench grinder and file to make it ok, and some sandpaper to smooth it out but i'm cheap and like doing my own stuff)

The powerhead was dirty, but looked fine. The chain and bar (as you can see) were used hard.

would it leave enough rail so that the DL's don't touch the bottom of the groove? you also need to consider the width of the groove. is it wallowed out to the point that the chain flops to the side?

that bar has gotten hot bf...

i would not spend a dime on that bar. but some people might need to spend a few dollars to get a little more life out of that bar.

Good points.

Kevin

 

[HimWill]

I have a new 18" bar and 2 new chains for this saw (I know 16" would be better, but they want the 18"). The 16" bar would be a back-up...for when/if they pinch the 18" bar (and have only one saw with them), they could take the power head off and use the 16" to free the 18".

Kevin

I vote you dress it off with your grinder and file it square.For a backup it looks fine from what I can see.The tail of the bar is very important too,how does it look?
PS-I'm cheap too!!!

 

[ShoerFast]

I have a new 18" bar and 2 new chains for this saw (I know 16" would be better, but they want the 18"). The 16" bar would be a back-up...for when/if they pinch the 18" bar (and have only one saw with them), they could take the power head off and use the 16" to free the 18".

Kevin

That rule can be found in the chapter 'Always carry a little something for snake-bite,,, and carry a small snake' .

As for the bar, dress it and run it, you will know when it's time to replace it.

 

[Justsaws]

Grind the rails following the curve of the bar. Try to preserve the original shape of the bar. Check depth after grinding for drive link clearance.

Square the edges after the grind to remove any grind bur.

If the chain is loose or tilts past the cutters corner hammer the rails in a touch. If it take a lot of closing it may be necessary to very lightly grind the rails again.

That bar has plenty of life left as long as the sprocket and tail are in good shape. If the tail needs work remember to file in a V to assist the chain in lining up. Check drive link clearance on the tail as well.

The whole bar truing process on a 16" bar is quick and easy once you have done a few. I enjoy the process as well as bar straighting. I consider it direct recycling, no need to waste a good bar.

Tell the owner to sharpen the chains more often.

 

[maico490]

looks like he needs to use oil, or more of it as the rails are blue.

Looks to me like the blueing from original factory induction hardening. Either belt sand it or file square and it will probably be OK. Easy to tell if the groove is too wide as chain will flop from side to side but can be closed by rolling or hammering.(Especially if only needed as spare)
With that much of the original blueing visible I doubt there would be any problems with groove depth.

 

[Rookie1]

Looks to me like the blueing from original factory induction hardening. Either belt sand it or file square and it will probably be OK. Easy to tell if the groove is too wide as chain will flop from side to side but can be closed by rolling or hammering.(Especially if only needed as spare)
With that much of the original blueing visible I doubt there would be any problems with groove depth.

:agree2: I thought the blue was heat treating also. As stated Id clean it up and run it.

 

[Justsaws]

The bluing is part of the manufacturing process but in areas has been exaggerated by use. Where a bar is most worn is usually where the bluing effect is most visible.

 

[dingeryote]

Clamp it in the bench vice, level it out. Then draw file it back to even. A magnetic level on the file will help keep things even. If there's life left in the bar, use it!

All Stihl bars have a bit of blue near the rails where they were hardened, don't let it worry ya.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[KMB]

Sounds like the general opinion is keep it and dress it. I'll call the shop I mentioned earlier and see how much they want to do the bar. If I think it's to much, I might have a try at dressing the bar myself using a bench grinder I have access to. This will be a first for me.

The sprocket, nose, and tail look fine.

Thanks for the advice and instruction on bar dressing.

Kevin

 

[ShoerFast]

Yes, blueing starts at around 900F as it takes nitrogen out of air and combines it with steel. You would know it if you were running a chain that hot!

 

[warjohn]

When I need to dress up a bar i use the edge sander in my BIL's cabinet shop.It works perfectly. If you don't have access to one you can clamp a hand held belt sander to a table then build up the table in front of the sander. Check it to make sure it is at 90 degree's to the table and your ready to go. I did this before I had access to an edge sander with good results.

 

[KMB]

When I need to dress up a bar i use the edge sander in my BIL's cabinet shop.It works perfectly. If you don't have access to one you can clamp a hand held belt sander to a table then build up the table in front of the sander. Check it to make sure it is at 90 degree's to the table and your ready to go. I did this before I had access to an edge sander with good results.

Thanks for the tip. The only grinder I have access to is the bench grinder.

Kevin

 

[HimWill]

This is really a "hands-on" do it yourself project.Taking it to a shop and paying the shop rates doesn't compute with me.You can do it,if not let the shop straighten up your mess after you give it a try.
It doesn't look that bad,a file will probably take care of it.

When I said a file,I mean something like a 10" or 12" mill file.(not a letter opener)

 

[KMB]

This is really a "hands-on" do it yourself project.Taking it to a shop and paying the shop rates doesn't compute with me.You can do it,if not let the shop straighten up your mess after you give it a try.
It doesn't look that bad,a file will probably take care of it.

When I said a file,I mean something like a 10" or 12" mill file.(not a letter opener)

LOL. A good push in the right direction . I have just the files, and with the bench grinder, I should be able to get it done sufficiently. Besides the shop is about a half hour away (one-way) and it might be a while before I need to go there, don't want to make a special trip.

Kevin

 

[sloch24]

I trued up a couple of 28" bars that were BAD looking when I got them. The slot is a little sloppy, but I used my stationary belt sander, and it was EZPZ! (Sorry Gary)