Stihl ms192t c, ms 192t c-e; difference?

[teamster]

I've been using a muffler modded 020 top handle for years. Best saw for the job ever! But, I'm approaching 60 years with bursitis in the shoulder. The strong compression and bit of extra weight is a factor now. The ms 192t c has the easy2start feature. What does the ms 192t c-e model have that is different? My local dealers can't answer.

I also want to know if you guys recommend a narrower kerf bar and chain. I don't want safety straps or safety chain. I make lots of cuts in tight places close to the bar tip. I don't run safety chain on my 020, 026, 044 or 066, because I make lots of bore cuts.

Basically I'm looking for the fastest and most proficient chain for the ms 192t. And lightest bar. I've been all over this site via the search engine. I want better and more thorough answers from experienced operators. How would you set yours up? Cost isn't a factor.

 

[2000ssm6]

The "C" just denotes that the saw has an extra feature, that feature is the "E" as in the "Easy2Start system".

The new Rollomatic E Light bars are claimed to be 30% lighter than the standard bars. I haven't tried one yet but want to on my 211. They come in 12", 14", and 16" sizes. Here are the part #'s for each.

12" 3005 000 7405 (44DL)
14" 3005 000 7409 (50DL)
16" 3005 000 7413 (55DL)

Personally for a 192T, I'd go for the 12 or 14. As far as I know, Stihl doesn't have any of the "yellow" chain in the 3/8" Picco size. Those bars are .050 gauge and take the Picco chain. I'm running PMC3 on my 211 and like it so far but want to try another brand of chain that is more agressive. I don't expect my little saw to throw chips like the ported 440 but that chain gets the job done fine, even though it is a green chain. I'm sure you are careful using the top handle but maybe the green low kickback chain would serve you better, maybe a little "safer".

 

[Cope]

As far as I know, Stihl doesn't have any of the "yellow" chain in the 3/8" Picco size.

I haven't bought any in awhile, but assuming its still available, their yellow chain is 63PM. That's what I've always used on my 200T.

 

[2000ssm6]

I haven't bought any in awhile, but assuming its still available, their yellow chain is 63PM. That's what I've always used on my 200T.

I should have stated what was currently on the market. I have to go back to my 2005 catalog to find the yellow PM chain. Must have been discontinued and replaced by the PMC3.

 

[teamster]

The "C" just denotes that the saw has an extra feature, that feature is the "E" as in the "Easy2Start system".

The new Rollomatic E Light bars are claimed to be 30% lighter than the standard bars. I haven't tried one yet but want to on my 211. They come in 12", 14", and 16" sizes. Here are the part #'s for each.

12" 3005 000 7405 (44DL)
14" 3005 000 7409 (50DL)
16" 3005 000 7413 (55DL)

Personally for a 192T, I'd go for the 12 or 14. As far as I know, Stihl doesn't have any of the "yellow" chain in the 3/8" Picco size. Those bars are .050 gauge and take the Picco chain. I'm running PMC3 on my 211 and like it so far but want to try another brand of chain that is more agressive. I don't expect my little saw to throw chips like the ported 440 but that chain gets the job done fine, even though it is a green chain. I'm sure you are careful using the top handle but maybe the green low kickback chain would serve you better, maybe a little "safer".

Thanks for the response. I'm not totally debilitated. Years of experience. Just a touch of bursitis. I rope and saddle climb all the time. I use the 020 Super all the time. I still prefer professional chain.

Keep the suggestions and responses coming.

 

[SawTroll]

I haven't bought any in awhile, but assuming its still available, their yellow chain is 63PM. That's what I've always used on my 200T.

Yes!


...or try Oregon VS or VX......

 

[SawTroll]

....

12" 3005 000 7405 (44DL)
14" 3005 000 7409 (50DL)
16" 3005 000 7413 (55DL)
....

I believe they are bluffing a bit with that lengths vs dl count, but that's an old story - that "16" bar" sure isn't 16" , more like 15" etc.....:censored:

 

[Just Mow]

The 192TC-E is a top handle saw
The 192C-E is a rear handle saw

Both have the easy2start feature

Get an E-lite bar to cut down on the weight then get you some 63PD3 carbide chain and you will be set.
Yes the carbide in this size is new

 

[flimflam]

you can get "yellow" chain on a 192t or 192. Just get the 3/8 picco .050 instead of the .043 and you're good to go. Definiately get the E-light bar, but it's pretty expensive.

the ms 192's are a great saw for it's intended purpose. Much better than the echo cs 341, 330t and 360t, that's for sure. Won't compete with a 338 xpt but a 200t would kill it.

 

[flimflam]

I haven't bought any in awhile, but assuming its still available, their yellow chain is 63PM. That's what I've always used on my 200T.

It's the 63PMC now. C for the comfort. Yellow is always available. It's just the narrow kerf .043 guage that comes in saftey only.

 

[bennn*e]

if you still want 'yellow picco' see if you can get 3613.000.0044 etc. its is 63PMC with out the anti kick back in the dl, it looks the same as 3997 just with directional link straps

 

[pgg]

12" bar with 1/4 pitch chain is by far the best setup for a 192T, the 1/4 pitch bar, 050(1.3mm) is stihl part number 3005 000 6405. The matching stihl 7T sprocket and worm drive are part number 1129 640 2050, fits both 200T and 192T. 64 links for the 1/4 chain

 

[teamster]

I've been using a muffler modded 020 top handle for years. Best saw for the job ever! But, I'm approaching 60 years with bursitis in the shoulder. The strong compression and bit of extra weight is a factor now. The ms 192t c has the easy2start feature. What does the ms 192t c-e model have that is different? My local dealers can't answer.

I also want to know if you guys recommend a narrower kerf bar and chain. I don't want safety straps or safety chain. I make lots of cuts in tight places close to the bar tip. I don't run safety chain on my 020, 026, 044 or 066, because I make lots of bore cuts.

Basically I'm looking for the fastest and most proficient chain for the ms 192t. And lightest bar. I've been all over this site via the search engine. I want better and more thorough answers from experienced operators. How would you set yours up? Cost isn't a factor.

bump ttt

 

[huskystihl]

Carlton makes an excellent anti kick lo pro for the 192. I pretty much buy only rolls of stihl chain but I do keep a roll on hand for the 192 and like it very much.

 

[teamster]

12" bar with 1/4 pitch chain is by far the best setup for a 192T, the 1/4 pitch bar, 050(1.3mm) is stihl part number 3005 000 6405. The matching stihl 7T sprocket and worm drive are part number 1129 640 2050, fits both 200T and 192T. 64 links for the 1/4 chain

Is it because it makes a smoother cut? Give me more details on the theory. Thanks.

 

[pgg]

Well for normal use you won't notice much difference between 3/8LP and 1/4", put into perspective my top-handle work saws with 1/4" chain cut anywhere up to 8000 or so branches a day, (200 trees @ around 30 - 50 branches per tree) means the chain is taking a full throttle 'stop/start' shock 8000 times a day too.

The theorists will tell ya a chain with smaller links will stretch more because there's more rivets to wear. Wrooongg! On these small bars a 1/4" chain turns round the bar-tip and drive sprocket better, and the extra links/rivets spread the load/shock better, all combined with the smoother cutting action.(1/4" has 33% more cutters, links and rivets than 3/8LP) Fact the 1/4" chain outlasts the 3/8LP stuff. On a commercial pruning saw, 3/8LP often snaps before the cutters are 1/2 to 2/3 worn. But if the saw's not getting a lot of use, then 3/8LP is OK. The lightweight homeowner 192T is perfectly suited to a 1/4" setup all the same

 

[teamster]

Well for normal use you won't notice much difference between 3/8LP and 1/4", put into perspective my top-handle work saws with 1/4" chain cut anywhere up to 8000 or so branches a day, (200 trees @ around 30 - 50 branches per tree) means the chain is taking a full throttle 'stop/start' shock 8000 times a day too.

The theorists will tell ya a chain with smaller links will stretch more because there's more rivets to wear. Wrooongg! On these small bars a 1/4" chain turns round the bar-tip and drive sprocket better, and the extra links/rivets spread the load/shock better, all combined with the smoother cutting action.(1/4" has 33% more cutters, links and rivets than 3/8LP) Fact the 1/4" chain outlasts the 3/8LP stuff. On a commercial pruning saw, 3/8LP often snaps before the cutters are 1/2 to 2/3 worn. But if the saw's not getting a lot of use, then 3/8LP is OK. The lightweight homeowner 192T is perfectly suited to a 1/4" setup all the same

Thanks a bunch. I'm always interested in the "why" of a practice. With more cutters, it should remove more wood also? Depending on the amount of wood removed by each tooth. Then also, the narrower kerf is a plus, in not having to unnecessarily remove wood?

 

[pgg]

Yeah the 1/4" stuff has narrower teeth, in theory that's less friction, and supposedly more teeth equals 'more wood removed' too. In the real world the cutting speed betwen 3/8LP and 1/4" is pretty much the same. The 1/4 stuff usually feels smoother though. On anything less than brand-new chains it's all dependant on how good the operaters' sharpening is. It's easy to get uneven angles and shapes with these small 3/8LP and 1/4" chains, they're a bit trickier to sharpen than normal sized 3/8 chain. A 'not quite perfect' 1/4" chain will feel rougher/harsher than a well sharpened 3/8LP chain

 

[teamster]

Any more information on how to make this an elite in-the-tree saw? Short of making it an 0200? Keep giving me your input. Thanks.

 

[Brushwacker]

Safety chains are not my preference but if they are on a saw I purchase or dirt cheap they are not hard to file the humps down 4 or 5 licks with a good file and acheive very close performence to non safety. I usually follow with lowering the depth gauge 1 or 2 licks on a new chain depending on the saws power. I never done a comparison on bore cutting, but they seem to bore cut well enough afterward I don't think there a lot differance there after the modification. A 12" chain probably less then 10 minutes will make it aggresive to the tip.
I do like some of the non stihl 3/8 picco has longer teeth.