Poulan 4900...before & after.

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Flintknapper

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Poulan 4900 lives again!

Sorry for the extremely poor pics (cell phone). My digital camera is in for repair…so these will have to do.

Before:
4900_A.jpg


The cell phone did some really funky things with the green color, it doesn’t look anything like this at all. I didn’t go back with “Poulan Green”…but what I picked is not THIS color either.


After:
4900_1.jpg


4900_2-1.jpg


4900_3-1.jpg



These two pics are a little closer to the real color, but still not right.

4900_4-1.jpg


4900_5-1.jpg



Note: For you “Old Poulan Lovers”, if you are considering any of the saws in this series (4200-4400-4900-5200-5400) I would recommend you go with the 5200-5400 and get 85cc’s.

The reason I say this….is because these saws are HEAVY, they are built like a tank!

Mine, (with a 24” bar, chain, full of fuel and oil) weighs in at a hefty 23 lbs…… so you might as well have the extra power.

My 4900 is more than powerful enough for anything I do, but all of these saws will be heavy….so just keep that in mind.
 
I hear Lime Light green from an early 70's Chrysler is almost an exact match for the old Poulans.....

:cheers:
Mike
 
The lettering is HD vinyl. Any decent decal shop can make it for you.

The "Poulan" lettering is proprietary, but they should have it in their book (saves looking it up).

You can have anything you like made up.

Cost me all of 12 bucks, no brainer....decal it.
 
Another option is to use a stick-on stencil. I use these when I repaint Stihl bars. The letters are cut out of stick-on vinyl. After the base color is dry, stick the stencil on the bar and mask everything else off. I then paint the bar through the cut out letters. I then simply remove the stencil and masking. I certainly don't want to take away from this excellent restoration, but wanted to show another option.

425217199_CUF6M-L.jpg
425217204_pbegx-L.jpg
 
Another option is to use a stick-on stencil. I use these when I repaint Stihl bars. The letters are cut out of stick-on vinyl. After the base color is dry, stick the stencil on the bar and mask everything else off. I then paint the bar through the cut out letters. I then simply remove the stencil and masking. I certainly don't want to take away from this excellent restoration, but wanted to show another option.

425217199_CUF6M-L.jpg
425217204_pbegx-L.jpg

You both have great ideas! You can get 3400 decals, but tougher to get the larger Poulan decals. Will have to try both methods. The paint is another issue!
Bob
 
Great tips.


And I wouldn't call what I did..." a restoration", as I purposely did not follow the Poulan color scheme...or try to locate factory decals (NLA).

I just needed a slightly bigger saw to use around the ranch and thought this would fill the bill.

I was fortunate...in that someone had already been into the lower end. The crank, bearings,rod, piston, reed valve assy, and carb all looked brand new (literally).

I didn't split the case because everything was perfect. I did install new crank seals (just in case the others were dry).

I re-ringed it...(it had 145 lbs comp./now 160 and its not broken in). All new clutch parts, refurbished the oil pump. Took everything apart (except case) and bead blasted it to bare metal before painting.

The only thing wrong with this saw when I got it...was a rotted fuel line and about 1/4" of varnish in the bottom of the fuel tank. The bar and chain were junk though.

Almost like someone rebuilt it....put it down with fuel in it and left it to "gum up".

A good cleaning....and few parts later....made a good stout ranch saw for me. It'll probably look like hell in about a year...but it should still run well. :greenchainsaw:


Flint.
 
Last edited:
Great tips.


And I wouldn't call what I did..." a restoration", as I purposely did not follow the Poulan color scheme...or try to locate factory decals (NLA).

I just needed a slightly bigger saw to use around the ranch and thought this would fill the bill.

I was fortunate...in that someone had already been into the lower end. The crank, bearings,rod, piston, reed valve assy, and carb all looked brand new (literally).

I didn't split the case because everything was perfect. I did install new crank seals (just in case the others were dry).

I re-ringed it...(it had 145 lbs comp./now 160 and its not broken in). All new clutch parts, refurbished the oil pump. Took everything apart (except case) and bead blasted it to bare metal before painting.

The only thing wrong with this saw when I got it...was a rotted fuel line and about 1/4" of varnish in the bottom of the fuel tank. The bar and chain were junk though.

Almost like someone rebuilt it....put it down with fuel in it and left it to "gum up".

A good cleaning....and few parts later....made a good stout ranch saw for me. It'll probably look like hell in about a year...but it should still run well. :greenchainsaw:


Flint.

Looks good Flint. What paint did you use and was it two part paint? Did you bake it? I've tried rattle cans with varying success. Tried baking at 225. Sometimes bubbles up. Also paint chips very easily. Think I may have to go to a two part paint. Again, great job;
Bob
 
Nice job Flint! Two thumbs up for sure. It don't matter if the color is off a tad. Still looks like a Poulan for me.

They really are not that heavy compared to the compitition from that era.

I'll be money that my 68cc Homelite 410 fully dressed weighs just as much. The McCullochs from back then never won any weight contest either.

That said I do agree that you might as well have 85cc if you can, but tells us how that thing works that 24" bar. I bet it runs it real well as I seen what Mikes 4200 did with my 28" bar on it in some Oak at Levi's.
 
Looks like the Poulan Lovers Group might have their next "cover girl".
Be sure to shoot me some pics when you get your camera back!!!


Mike
 

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