McCulloch Chain Saws

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I've just scored a 12-25A two man from a buddy that supposedly runs but may need some parts to make it cut. He wasn't sure what might be missing but he said it had to do with a gear or something he thought. Gotta carve him a penguin and 50 bucks cash. I thought that was a reasonable enough deal even if I have to search for some parts for a while to get it to cut. Anybody have some experience with this particular model and know if there is an IPL or parts sources floating around out there anywhere. I would really like to take this one with me to the Mo GTG if it is really.

Hope you don't have to carve the penguin with the 12-25! :laugh: That model was the first model of saw to be manufactured entirely by McCulloch, so there is some extra historical value to it. I'm sure one of the gurus will be able to help you out with the technical info. Mike Acres site is about as far as I can go.



Model: 12-25A

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MANUFACTURED BY: McCULLOCH MOTORS CORP.
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA, U.S.A.
SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER:
YEAR INTRODUCED: 1948
YEAR DISCONTINUED: 1949
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 7.95 cu. in. (130cc)
NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1
CYLINDER BORE: 2.25 in. (57mm)
PISTON STROKE: 2 in. 50.8mm)
CYLINDER TYPE: Aluminum chrome plated, later cast iron sleeve
INTAKE METHOD: Rotary valve
MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.: 5
WEIGHT : 48 lbs. (21.7 kg) powerhead only
OPERATOR CONFIGURATION: Two Man operation
HANDLEBAR SYSTEM: Rigid
CHAIN BRAKE: none
CLUTCH: Centrifugal
DRIVE TYPE: Bevel gear transmission
CONSTRUCTION: Die cast magnesium
MAGNETO TYPE: McCulloch
CARBURETOR: McCulloch diaphragm type
MAJOR REPAIR KIT: nla
MINOR REPAIR KIT: nla
AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Wire screen
STARTER TYPE: McCulloch Kickproof automatic rewind
OIL PUMP: Manual accessory attachment
OPERATING RPM:
IGNITION TIMING: Fixed, not adjustable
BREAKER POINT SETTING: .018 in. (0.04mm)
FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP: 0.008 to 0.010 in. (0.2 to 0.25 mm)
SPARK PLUG TYPE: Champion J8J
SPARK PLUG GAP: .020 in. (0.05mm)
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS: Ball
FUEL TANK CAPACITY:
FUEL OIL RATIO: 16:1 1/2 pint per gallon
RECOMMENDED FUEL OCTANE: Regular
MIX OIL SPECIFICATION: SAE 30 non-detergent
CHAIN PITCH: 3/4 in.
CHAIN TYPE: McCulloch
BAR MOUNT PATTERN:
SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 20 in. (51cm)
LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 60 in. (152cm)
COLOUR SCHEME: McCulloch Yellow
PAINT CODES:
ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST:
SERVICE MANUAL:

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COMMENTS: First model of gasoline chain saw manufactured completely by McCulloch Motors Corp.

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Reproduction of this World Wide Web Site in whole or in part is prohibited without permission.
Copyright © 2000-2010 MIKE ACRES :cheers: - All rights are reserved.
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About the only thing I know about 2-man saws is that the helper handle side of the bar is referred to as "the dumb end". :D
 
I've just scored a 12-25A two man from a buddy that supposedly runs but may need some parts to make it cut. He wasn't sure what might be missing but he said it had to do with a gear or something he thought. Gotta carve him a penguin and 50 bucks cash. I thought that was a reasonable enough deal even if I have to search for some parts for a while to get it to cut. Anybody have some experience with this particular model and know if there is an IPL or parts sources floating around out there anywhere. I would really like to take this one with me to the Mo GTG if it is really.

I happen to have a IPL for a 1225. Need a email address though to send it to.
 
These saws are not mine. This was at a show back in 2006.
Don't know who the collector is.

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You have to admire a guy that could strap that McCulloch 250 to his back and go out and knock down brush and small trees....

Mark

P.S. For the guys up north they also had an ice auger attachment, I had to pass on a 35 with the ice auger last November, just didn't have time to go pick it up.

There was a drill attachment as well, for boring holes in timber frame buildiings of for tapping maple trees for syrup.
 
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P.S. For the guys up north they also had an ice auger attachment, I had to pass on a 35 with the ice auger last November, just didn't have time to go pick it up.
There was a drill attachment as well, for boring holes in timber frame buildiings of for tapping maple trees for syrup.
I've been looking for one of those. I haven't seen much info. online either. Got any pics/specs. ?
I was telling my fishing/maple sugaring buddy about them while we were on the ice yesterday.
 
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Need some more advice

I am dismantling my 1-72 for repairs. I noticed the reeds stick up a little, maybe .020 or so. Are they supposed to seal tight against the plate? If so, can they be flipped over, or do I need to look for some new ones?
Concerning the gaskets between fuel tank halves, and the ones under the reed assy, etc. Do you guys make your own, or do you just use sealer here? Although I have worked on things mechanical all my life, this is a new foray into the 2 stroke world, as well as being vintage stuff that is largely unavailable. I about had to give up my firstborn to find a set of rings for this one. :dizzy:
Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge.
Jim
 
If the reed valve sticks up on one corner it is probably warped a bit. The better the seal you can get on them the better. That goes for the whole engine, the rings, the crankcase seals, etc. It would run anyway, but if you can find a new set of reeds it might be better although you might not be able to tell much difference. Many two cycle engines don't have reeds and they run ok although I think the piston is designed a little different in them.
 
If the reed valve sticks up on one corner it is probably warped a bit. The better the seal you can get on them the better.

It doesn't stick up in one corner, but rather the whole free end on both reeds sticks up a little from the seating surface.
 
I just got an old mac 35 that was locked up solid!!! Three days of soaking the piston and cyl. and it finally broke free:) This thing is going to be a project for sure. I really don't know if it is salvageable yet. I wasn't able to get the piston out of the cyl thru the bottom.
Seems a bit stuck!

At least the geardrive box spins nice:clap:

So tonight I will take the rod off of the crank and see if it will come out the top.

The real shame of it is that this saw seems to have gotten very little use then was set aside to rust and corrode into what I ended up with.

So far it looks like I can save all the gaskets or make new ones.

What's up with the carburation on these things!!! Pretty odd design from what I'm used to seeing.
 
McCulloch chain brake help

I have a McCulloch Pro Mac 55 that I replaced the brake band on and am having difficulty putting the spring back on. If anyone could post some close up pics or specific install instructions,that would help.
thanks
 

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