Help...Husky won't start!

[Erick]

The modules on these are the same used on many of the Huskys and although they are far from bullet proof they are fairly reliable. I'm not saying it's not the module, but I'd rather eliminate the cheap/free stuff first.

Besides the process of elimination could be educational.

 

[Ransom]

Agreed, and off to test out the cheap/free stuff.

Thanks again for all the help, everybody!

 

[rob066]

Negative.
The plug is new, and the old plug was not black or charred.

How new is the plug. Maybe it was no good. Try another another one. You could of got a bad new plug

 

[milkman]

Clean up the rust and see if that helps.

 

[Diesel Pro]

For testing spark I have one of this style units:

 

[spudulike]

Check compression - going from running to non running overnight is strange but anything under130Psi is suspect - the visible part of your piston may look fine but I recently had a Husky look fine through the exhaust port but the piston had seized just to the left of the port & the ring was stuck in the groove.

Could be a gummed up ring - compression check - always my first check closely followed by spark and then fuel - have you set both H & L settings to 1 turn out?

Spud

 

[Ransom]

Gas from the neighbor seemed to help, but still not running...just the occasional pop.

Seems like the pop is blowing back through the carb and air filter though...?

"This means something..."

Don't have the gauge for a compression check.

 

[Diesel Pro]

Do you have a propane torch that you could burn the plug clean with?

 

[Erick]

Gas from the neighbor seemed to help, but still not running...just the occasional pop.

Seems like the pop is blowing back through the carb and air filter though...?

"This means something..."

Don't have the gauge for a compression check.

Call that timing, I just came back in from shoveling some more white crap.

Okay so what did you do and what did it do??

 

[Ransom]

We put fresh gas in the tank.
Make some pulls. Occasional pop.
Do the routine to dry the plug and cylinder, just in case.

I am getting a lil' pop every 10 pulls or so after I choke it for a couple pulls.

Occasionally, it seems to pop back through the carb.

That is what it is doing...I'm trying not to cuss!

The snow has stopped falling, I have trees to cut, and the saw won't run

 

[Erick]

Long distance diagnostics sucks

Sounds like you may have had some questionable fuel?? Would have liked to have seen it in a jar to know better what you're up against. Could have been water in the fuel?? Maybe gelled with the ethanol in the fuel clogging up the inlet screen or inlet needle?? What type fuel jug are you using??? Fuel will break down the plastics in non-approved fuel containers (like milk jugs) leaving a milky white plastic residue in the fuel that clogs things up and can ultimately lead to a major failure.

Did you ever test the fuel line??? Need to know if the carb is leaking over?? Could be now that you have good fuel you are getting ignition but the leaking inlet needle is keeping it flooded???

The fact that it "pops" on choke but wont run would imply that it may not be getting enough fuel?? Make sure the fuel line isn't kinked or leaking (pressure test)?? Check the fuel filter... pull it off and blow back through it with your mouth, should flow freely?? Could be that clogged inlet screen from the bad fuel??

On the electrical/spark side....
Check the kill switch wires for breaks or bare spots, same for the spark plug wire.

Disconnect the kill wire from the module and tuck it away from the spinning flywheel put the recoil back on and see if it will start.

It sounds like the module could be out of time (the usual failure when these modules fail)??? But it could be a sheared flywheel key??

It's a short process really but you have to work it out step by step until you find the point of failure, eliminate possibilities as you go.

 

[Ransom]

Thanks for the continued assistance, Erick (and everybody else).
You have certainly given me some things to check into further. Don't know that it will happen tomorrow, but it will happen.

The fuel was in a regular fuel can, but I will check how it looks in a glass container. My neighbor thought it smelled bad.

I'll post an update when I have something worth updating.

What do you think the odds of a bad module are? Is this the same as coil?

Thanks again!!!

 

[deerlakejens]

I'm not familiar w/ 455 and I know you stated earlier that you had cleaned the filter, but I would try starting it without a filter. Since it was running fine when you put it away and you say you have a good spark, I'd say it has to be fuel or air. Use some compressed air to really clean out the filter and maybe a shot of carb cleaner into the carb and try it again. I have a backpack blower that acts like your saw when the filter is clogged w/fine dust particles. Blow it clean and it runs like a top.

 

[Ransom]

DeerLake,
thanks for the tip. I tried it and still no good. She's getting put away for the night now.
I'll take another crack at it in the morning.

thanks for the help everyone!

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Well...Welcome to AS!

I'm sure there is someone on this forum that may live close to you that might be able to give you a hand getting that thing started.

Rep persistence sent.

Dan

 

[Erick]

Thanks for the continued assistance, Erick (and everybody else).
You have certainly given me some things to check into further. Don't know that it will happen tomorrow, but it will happen.

The fuel was in a regular fuel can, but I will check how it looks in a glass container. My neighbor thought it smelled bad.

I'll post an update when I have something worth updating.

What do you think the odds of a bad module are? Is this the same as coil?

Thanks again!!!

I fix fuel related issues at a rate of about 25 to 1 against ignition issues.... again, not saying it's not a module :dunno: but odds are it's a fuel issue, and I'd eliminate the fuel system first before I spent my hard earned money on a module.

No coil on a modern saw, it's an ignition module.

Inspecting the fuel in a jar tells me weather I should be looking for "other" fuel related issues like I mentioned.... dirt in the fuel might lead me to a plugged inlet screen or fuel filter. Old stale fuel might point toward gummed up needles or diaphragms. Water in the fuel almost always requires a teardown of the carb.

Good clean fuel usually takes me to step two

Checking the fuel filter and pressure testing the fuel line takes all of 30 seconds and eliminates
1) clogged fuel filter
2) leaking fuel hose
3) a soft fuel line that may collapse under demand or pinch easily
4) the inlet needle leaking over and flooding the saw

If alls good pull the spark plug and check the condition of the cylinder, spark plug, and confirm spark. Again another 30 second check that can lead to or away from possible issues.

You get the idea, you could spend all day swapping random parts and you will eventually find the problem but you probably could have bought a new saw for what you'd pay in parts and time, not to mention frustration.

A little systematic diagnosis can save you a ton of time, money, and sanity.

 

[Erick]

Oh yeah, didn't even realize welcome to the site.

and check your rep.

 

[Ransom]

Thanks again, Erick!
I love a good check-list!
I'll work through it and see what I can come up with.


This site should have won the Nobel Peace prize this year!

 

[tmroper]

Erick,
How do you tell if a carb is leaking over?

 

[Jonny Quest]

I may get blasted for this, but I would try just a wee bit of ether (starting fluid). I think that Snelling suggested this. Go EASY on the ether, but it can help to get things fired up.

JQ