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jefflovstrom

jefflovstrom

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So you're thinking root rot?

Maybe poor drainage and irrigation?

Crane removal??

Thank's for posting, MDS. Yeah, Too many target's to not take it seriously. No crane on this one, no access at all. Drainage is ok, maybe over irrigated, and about 1000 feet from the ocean. I figure 2 day's of rigging it out. I can only recommend removal, it is up the the HOA to decide. If we remove it, I will post pic's.
Jeff

Hope Treeseer chime's in.
 
John Paul Sanborn

John Paul Sanborn

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178421d1301759705-p1110003-jpg


I don't like the looks of the basal flair.

Does the tree predate the retaining wall, was it installed as a large tree?

Not that I know how a euc is supposed to look.

Is the fungal body coming from a crack or a old knot-hole. I've seen similar fruiting bodies on stubs, but then this is nod SoCal so I can't guess a species.
 
jefflovstrom

jefflovstrom

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Of all the options possible, why just that one?

:msp_confused:

Don't get me wrong, I have not recommended anything. I pointed it out and will see how they want to procede. We have been here for several year's and last year they had alot of work done. The root's I bet are going up-hill and alot of changes happened up there. The option's are up to the board. Stop being confused.
Jeff :msp_wink:
 
Boa07

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Hard to imagine that gum being able to sustain itself within such a small soil volume (based on the pic).

The f/b looks a bit like Pleurotus sp (no idea which one) suspect its degrading dysfunctional tissue that possibly forms a column from the base of the f/b to the root system. IMO the fungi is less relevant than the predictable impacts caused by constructing the pool and the raised garden beds.

JPS, I don't think there is much wrong with the root crown flare.
 
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Boa07

Boa07

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Totally agree JPS responsive growth of buttresses as the older root system declines and is degraded by wood decay, pretty much par for the course in any tree of reasonable age. In itself not a problem, good response can be indicative of a healthy vigorous tree.

Hard to be at all definative based on picture from one angle alone and some distance from the tree :msp_unsure:

Of course could be wrong about the f/b ID, but unless it has punched and munched its way through the bark (no connecting column via knot/inclusion/injury) then the presence of a f/b alone would not sound any major alarm bells for me.

The amount of lost soil volume and pretty much certain major structural root loss to construct that pool and bed is however a major alarm bell!
 
beastmaster

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Jeff, is there any die back in the canopy? For all that construction to have gone on during the life of that tree a lot of major roots had to of been removed, and drainage impaired and changed.
I couldn't find that Conk in any of my books to id it, but by the time a conk appears, especially high up from the ground its been doing its thing for a while and has spread beyond the conk.
I read consulting reports for City's on their Eucalyptus trees and they always recommend removal if there are any fruiting bodys on the tree because of liability.
If you decide to remove it, get a hold of me, I could get her down safely in a day.(I'm just saying) Beastmaster
 
treeseer

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Jeff here's the 5X approach; on the clock of course:

Expose: Remove mulch and groundcover from the infection site. “…diseased trees have sometimes been saved by removing soil from around the root buttresses and root collar. The pathogen ceases growth in tissues thus exposed.” from Diseases of Trees.

Excavate: Clean the site of decayed material. Probe into soft areas, wide, high and low.

Excise, with care: Trace/trim the last of the decayed tissue, taking care not to break into living tissue."Trees with cavities may be valuable enough to justify considerable work." from the book Arboriculture.

Examine: Look at the entire infection. “An unexamined life is not worth living” Socrates. “An unexamined tree is not worth keeping”

Extract evidence and other information.

Calculate strength loss, determine the tree's response. After the diagnosis, make a prognosis, telling the owner about the process and progress of the fungal strategies of wood decay.

Fungus is present throughout the air, soil and water that surrounds the tree. It is the arborist’s task to help trees resist any attack. If fungus gets a foothold in a tree, this protocol may resist decay and retain and increase tree value.
 
Urban Forester

Urban Forester

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Jeff here's the 5X approach; on the clock of course:

Expose: Remove mulch and groundcover from the infection site. “…diseased trees have sometimes been saved by removing soil from around the root buttresses and root collar. The pathogen ceases growth in tissues thus exposed.” from Diseases of Trees.

Excavate: Clean the site of decayed material. Probe into soft areas, wide, high and low.

Excise, with care: Trace/trim the last of the decayed tissue, taking care not to break into living tissue."Trees with cavities may be valuable enough to justify considerable work." from the book Arboriculture.

Examine: Look at the entire infection. “An unexamined life is not worth living” Socrates. “An unexamined tree is not worth keeping”

Extract evidence and other information.

Calculate strength loss, determine the tree's response. After the diagnosis, make a prognosis, telling the owner about the process and progress of the fungal strategies of wood decay.

Fungus is present throughout the air, soil and water that surrounds the tree. It is the arborist’s task to help trees resist any attack. If fungus gets a foothold in a tree, this protocol may resist decay and retain and increase tree value.

That is the best post I've seen on this site for quite awhile... excellent stuff!!!
 
brttsan

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spary the affected area with rubbing alcohol, after removing the fungus. you can use rubbing alcohol for any fungus and bug, it will even get rid of chinese scale. It will take several applications about 3 days apart. Alcohol will not hurt your plants, I use it all the time, make you also sparay the surrounding soil.
 
Boa07

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spary the affected area with rubbing alcohol, after removing the fungus. you can use rubbing alcohol for any fungus and bug, it will even get rid of chinese scale. It will take several applications about 3 days apart. Alcohol will not hurt your plants, I use it all the time, make you also sparay the surrounding soil.

Hmmmm sorry buddy but his is neither good nor sensible advice...rubbing alcohol does however make quite a good fuel for a soda pop bottle rocket.

It will hurt your plant, it will kill living organisms in the soil, neither of these things are desirable outcomes.
 

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