McCulloch Chain Saws

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I have quietly watched this saw for 5 days now. I hope one of you got it. I didn't bid as 1 should be enough for me. Only 3 bidders and action really didn't start until the last minute.

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Ron

i watched it as well but way out of my budget hope someone here on as got that sounded like a real nice project.
 
Well I got outbid by $25.00 on it. I'll live though as I have another 101B being built a little more aggressive lined up. I wonder how a 650 geardrive drivetrain would hold up to that?:D That 125 seemed like a very nice saw though. I am sure whoever got it will have a big ol cheshire cat grin afor too long.
 
Well I got outbid by $25.00 on it. I'll live though as I have another 101B being built a little more aggressive lined up. I wonder how a 650 geardrive drivetrain would hold up to that?:D That 125 seemed like a very nice saw though. I am sure whoever got it will have a big ol cheshire cat grin afor too long.

Yeah it was me...... Coming to PA...... I really need to sell my 3120XP now to pay for this thing. I have another 125/101B, but it is a bit of a project saw.

I have gotten some parts from Axeman before, and he is really cool to deal with. Everything I have received from him is top notch. If it was somebody else selling the saw, I probably would not have paid so much.
 
roanoaker - diaphragm & gasket sets for the little flat back McCulloch carburetors should be available from Joe Salva at Sugar Creek Supply.

The little duck bill valves do not exist any more though. Somewhere back in the thread (I think it was this thread) I showed how I modified the body of the carburetor to accept the red Oreogon/Homelite duck bill valve that is used in the gas caps for some of their small saws.

Ron - who will start that saw for you? I don't think I will volunteer. Flywheel should be the same as any of the large frame LH start saws, I put a flywheel from a 200 or 250 on my SP105. McCulloch did a pretty good job of following the principle of interchangable parts. Mufflers and muffler covers are very had to come by for the big SP models. I do have a few NOS round ones like used on the CP and Super 797 but they are not quite the same as the large rectangular ones used on the big 700 Series saws, or like the rectangular ones with the removable cylindrical baffle from the big SP models. Covers don't seem to exist...

Mark
 
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Well I got outbid by $25.00 on it. I'll live though as I have another 101B being built a little more aggressive lined up. I wonder how a 650 geardrive drivetrain would hold up to that?:D That 125 seemed like a very nice saw though. I am sure whoever got it will have a big ol cheshire cat grin afor too long.

Yeah it was me...... Coming to PA...... I really need to sell my 3120XP now to pay for this thing. I have another 125/101B, but it is a bit of a project saw.

I have gotten some parts from Axeman before, and he is really cool to deal with. Everything I have received from him is top notch. If it was somebody else selling the saw, I probably would not have paid so much.

It is good to hear that the East Coast is picking up a few more big MACs. Maybe this will help right the world's rotation.

I too have had good dealings with Axeman. That is one reason it was so hard for me to sit quiet - you had to read his description to tell what he was offering.

Ron
 
Ron - who will start that saw for you? I don't think I will volunteer. Flywheel should be the same as any of the large frame LH start saws, I put a flywheel from a 200 or 250 on my SP105. McCulloch did a pretty good job of following the principle of interchangable parts. Mufflers and muffler covers are very had to come by for the big SP models. I do have a few NOS round ones like used on the CP and Super 797 but they are not quite the same as the large rectangular ones used on the big 700 Series saws, or like the rectangular ones with the removable cylindrical baffle from the big SP models. Covers don't seem to exist...

Mark

Mark, I am toying with making my own mufflers from aluminum tube and stock that doesn't require anything more than a drill press and a grinder. Will see how that goes after the Wedding.

The flywheel poses a bit of a dilemma. According to my research a standard 125 uses a 5 degree and a standard 101B does not (although a 5 degree is optional). Should I go with the 5 degree or a standard 101B flywheel? Used 5 degree flywheels appear to be rather common. I could just balance the one I have by removing another fin. I see broken fin flywheels sold for karts; but I don't know exact what to make of this.

Ron
 
Although I have not done it myself, plenty of folks will tell you the flywheel key is not really needed, just make yourself a degree wheel and set it where ever you want and lock it down with the taper.

I haven't had much experience with the kart engines yet so I'm not sure how much improvement you get with the extra 5° timing advance. Should make starting it more fun if you don't pull with authority.

Mark
 
Say I want to advance the timing on one of my ported macs, how far should I advance it? 5, 10, or even 15 degrees?
 
Although I have not done it myself, plenty of folks will tell you the flywheel key is not really needed, just make yourself a degree wheel and set it where ever you want and lock it down with the taper.

I haven't had much experience with the kart engines yet so I'm not sure how much improvement you get with the extra 5° timing advance. Should make starting it more fun if you don't pull with authority.

Mark

While I understand the starting issue, all the timing stuff frequently addressed on AS is over my head and frankly I don't have the interest to figure it out. If my recollection is correct from my youth, I would assume generally that the greater the compression the more you would want to advance the spark. I'll probably just pull the flywheel and replace it with a similar flywheel based on the theory that nothing has changed and the originator of this set up knew best.

This did not go over my head, however: "I haven't had much experience with the kart engines yet." I'll be paying attention. Ron
 
I have a Mac 1-10 with the bullfrog carb on it, can these saws be converted over to an SDC carb?


I don't have an SDC handy, or I would have checked to see if the impulse hole and bolt holes lined up.


Chris
 
Ron - I have three kart engines up on a shelf, two MAC10's and a MAC40. I haven't had time to do anything with them except snap a couple of photo's and set them aside. Perhaps one day I will lay a chainsaw flywheel on top of the kart flywheels and compare the location of the keyway.

Chris - They can be converted, my 5-10 has an SDC in place of the original flat back/bullfrog carburetor. This one has a home made adapter to allow the fit. Sorry but I don't have a good photo of the adapter.

181726d1303926850-mcculloch-5-10-dc13-jpg


Mark
 
Ron - I have three kart engines up on a shelf, two MAC10's and a MAC40. I haven't had time to do anything with them except snap a couple of photo's and set them aside. Perhaps one day I will lay a chainsaw flywheel on top of the kart flywheels and compare the location of the keyway.

Chris - They can be converted, my 5-10 has an SDC in place of the original flat back/bullfrog carburetor. This one has a home made adapter to allow the fit. Sorry but I don't have a good photo of the adapter.

181726d1303926850-mcculloch-5-10-dc13-jpg


Mark

Mark,

Looks like another project for down the line. Either that or I may try to clean and salvage the bullfrog. It's definately a strange carb to look at.

I got my 1-70 in today. That thing is a ton of fun.

Chris
 
Almost anything can be converted to anything if you have the time and patience to do it.

I always thought so, but never was able/had to do it too much.

I just converted my 650 gear drive over to an HL, which really wasn't a whole lot of trouble with some McCulloch 1-43 linkages.

I wish that HL had a choke butterfly in it though, because unlike the 1-43 the oiler is on the left and the primer button is on the right.

The oiler is pretty much stuck in the same position, the linkage is very tough to bend and would requite that a lot more parts of the saw be dismantled just to get it out to modify it.

I may either leave it the way it is and choke it by hand, or eventually find a carb with a butterfly in it.

Chris
 
Chris - Send me a PM with your e-mail address and I can send the McCulloch 10 Series carburetor information. While they are very different carburetors, once you get the idea how they are intended to operate they can be made to work. Search through this thread for some discussion on the adjustments.

If the duck bill valve is shot, modifying to accept the Homelite part is the best bet. I will try to remember to track down the Oregon and Homelit part numbers for the red duck bill valve tonight.

Mark
 
Mark,

Looks like another project for down the line. Either that or I may try to clean and salvage the bullfrog. It's definately a strange carb to look at.

I got my 1-70 in today. That thing is a ton of fun.

Chris

Hey this a question for the board and Mark. Saws like the 1-70 and Super 44A have the vane type governor on the carb, yet they are equipped with high performance type Kart motors. Is it OK to nix the vane, so that the saw can wind up like a modern saw? If I hold the vane and rev the saw, it sounds really good. Maybe the problem was the old style hard nose bars could not handle the chain speed, but nowadays you can retrofit a sprocket nose in there. Anyways, interested to hear opinions on the subject.
 
Air vane governors were used before anyone ever thought of the rev limiting coils found on many modern saws. Either system is deisgned to prevent overspeeding the engine when it is not under load.

Air vane governers are very easy to disable. In my limited experience, the engines will not instantaneously explode.

Defeating the governer on a Wright GS5020A reciporcating saw leads to very exciting harmonics in the vibration and movement of the blade...

Mark
 

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