Nik's Poulan Thread

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was cutting with my pp375 today and after it got warm it wouldn't idle. when i went to adjust the idle there wasn't an idle adjustment screw. anyone got one? its for a Walbro HDB18 carb.

also, is there any way to adjust the auto oiler on this saw? looked but can't find anything. the shop manual gives no indication.

thanks, jerry
 
Truly is just goofy. They just drilled out the hole and routed the gas
line through it. Why I don't know. I'm a little pix challenged.

Only way to get at it to fix is to remove flywheel and fuel tank. Even then you'll be two inches from the hole. Not sure how you would get the tap t handle in there. Spliting the case would allow easy access, but that's an extreme measure to only re-tap a hole. The idiot who tried to put a fuel line thru it would have had to come up by the manual oiler and then cut a hole in the top cover. Unless you really want to fix it, I'd leave it alone. Don't think you'll really notice it is missing. At some point if you want to split the case , then you can do a proper fix.

PS: maybe if you could find some kind of drill extension that would hold the tap, that might work.

Bob
 
was cutting with my pp375 today and after it got warm it wouldn't idle. when i went to adjust the idle there wasn't an idle adjustment screw. anyone got one? its for a Walbro HDB18 carb.

also, is there any way to adjust the auto oiler on this saw? looked but can't find anything. the shop manual gives no indication.

thanks, jerry

Jerry, let me look. Think I have one. PM me your address. Assume its the same as an HDB 8.
Bob
 
I've run across about 25 goofy things regarding chainsaws this year. Too bad when you select a used chainsaw you can't select a previous owner also!

Yup. Picked up two S25DA's (diff. sellers)who drilled a hole in the case near the kill switch to route the fuel line. Guess they didn't know how to route it. I can see why. A little JB Weld and some touchup paint and you can't tell.
Bob
 
Happy New Years everyone.

Got to workin on the 4900 again, the saw starts and idles perfect transitions perfect, just WOT the saw dies, like it's running outta fuel, let off the throttle, and she high idles unless I blip the throttle to get fuel back in then it'll idle down immediately, I've opened the H screw about 4 turns and makes no difference at WOT, however transition to WOT is super rich. I blocked the governor valve off, all new gaskets an seals carb and saw. I'm at a loss, unless I need to raise the inlet needle more. I don't have a gauge for a Tillotson carb, so were should the lever be set?
 
I would use a heli-coil personally. That way a future owner doesn't look at the oversize bolt and drilled out hole in the cover and think, "WTF".

Nick
I realize that would be idea/preferred but access to the hole would require a tear down that I would like to avoid.
 
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My 3400 was missing the top rear screw on the recoil so i found one and then discovered it must be stripped. It wouldn't tighten up. Tried a little Loctite to see if it would hold---didn't. Remove recoil and learned someone had drilled out the screw hole and run the fuel line through it. Strange! Anyway I thought I'd just rethread the hole and go to the next bolt size. Question is how to get a tap in the tight space without a tear down. Any ideas? Better plan? Thanks.



I believe if it was me, I would clean the end of that screw real good with brake or carb cleaner.
Then I would wax the end of it real good with car wax. (called a release agent)
Fill that hole with epoxy or JB Weld and insert that screw. Let it dry almost completely but not quite.
Unscrew the screw carefully and let the new threads cure for a couple of days.

Mike
 
I believe if it was me, I would clean the end of that screw real good with brake or carb cleaner.
Then I would wax the end of it real good with car wax. (called a release agent)
Fill that hole with epoxy or JB Weld and insert that screw. Let it dry almost completely but not quite.
Unscrew the screw carefully and let the new threads cure for a couple of days.

Mike




im going to try that!!!!m great idea think it would work on where yout bar bolts goes?????
 
im going to try that!!!!m great idea think it would work on where yout bar bolts goes?????




No, I wouldn't think it would handle the stress of a bar.
What saw are you talking about?
The studs are really easy to replace in most of these Poulans.
If you are talking about the S25 series there is a GREAT repair available for those. I'll have to find one and have it handy.


Mike
 
Found the problem, when I was pulling the carb, I happen to see the carb gasket didn't quite cover the pulse hole and channel, so I ended up making a gasket, and now the saw runs the way it should.
 
I believe if it was me, I would clean the end of that screw real good with brake or carb cleaner.
Then I would wax the end of it real good with car wax. (called a release agent)
Fill that hole with epoxy or JB Weld and insert that screw. Let it dry almost completely but not quite.
Unscrew the screw carefully and let the new threads cure for a couple of days.

Mike

Mike I was thinking the same things as I have done that myelf. I actually left the screw in it till it cured and then it turned right out.
 
I love the Worlds Greatest Chainsaw sign! :love1:

214324-poulan-sign-001-jpg



:cheers:
Gregg,

I love that sign as well. I like the 203 saw on it so that dates that sign back to about 1968.
 
I believe if it was me, I would clean the end of that screw real good with brake or carb cleaner.
Then I would wax the end of it real good with car wax. (called a release agent)
Fill that hole with epoxy or JB Weld and insert that screw. Let it dry almost completely but not quite.
Unscrew the screw carefully and let the new threads cure for a couple of days.

Mike

That sounds like a good fix to me! I did a similar repair to that 4000, that I painted blue. It was pretty much junk. The casting for the intake manifold on the left side of the cyl. was broken off and missing. I cleaned it, put a GOB of JB weld on it, with the screw in place. Let it set up pretty good, then tightened it some more. Its been holding great foe several years now. :biggrin:

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Found the problem, when I was pulling the carb, I happen to see the carb gasket didn't quite cover the pulse hole and channel, so I ended up making a gasket, and now the saw runs the way it should.

I was going to reply that the governer valve in the carb might be still letting fuel in but I see you fixed the problem. I have been working on a Husky 281 this morning and the governer valve was playing up just like you described. I plugged it with some foil and she is fine now. My big Poulans still have the valves intact and never cause a problem. I will have to watch them though.

Al.
 

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