McCulloch Timber Bear

[redheadwoodshed]

You got a good deal!Even if you have to rebuild the carb. and change the fuel line.Macs are hard to beat.

 

[Somesawguy]

You got a good deal!Even if you have to rebuild the carb. and change the fuel line.Macs are hard to beat.

speaking of fuel lines, anyone know what size they use? Mine needs to be replaced.

 

[~Yellow Streak~]

Cool! That Montgomery Ward is just like the Pro Mac 610/650, with the full wrap-around brake lever. That could come in handy in a nasty situation when you're felling. My TB's just have the flag brake levers.

The Timber Bear that I bought has a problem with the oil line. When I press on the manual oiler, then let go, I hear a gurgle in the tank. I think the oil line has a split in the tank. I've had the oiler apart and the diaphragm looks decent and the manual oiler did pump the prime oil I left in it. The TB that was given to me is in better shape than the one I bought. It's manual oiler is working great. I still have to go through it before test running it.

SomeSawGuy.... My TB has about 1/4" O.D. Tygon on it. Unsure of the I.D. but probably about 1/8".

I love how easy it is to work on the 600 series. Well designed.

 

[BrocLuno]

My neighbor gave me one over the weekend

runs well I think I may need to take the oiler apart . or maybe I should try some lighter oil was 15° when I tried it out on saturday. But it smokes like all out when I first start it so I assume the oiler diaphram is shot.

Nice saw in good shape. Will need TLC, but you'll like when running right. Especially good bucking fire wood. The weight is not so much a penalty when cutting down.

Thanks the neighbor. He did you well

 

[~Yellow Streak~]

Cases. Going.... Going...

Just thought I'd show y'all my "personalized" Timber Bear nestled in a Poo-Land case I recently purchased (That's a gel motorcycle grip on the handle). I purchased the case on Amazon (at present, $29.99 and free shipping). I had to modify the case a little by using a heat gun and mashing a few corners back in the bottom of the case, so the saw fit down in the bottom better. I heated, then used a piece of flat wood to mash a few corners back. I've included a photo of the spots I had to modify. The cases are branded with the Poo-Land name on top. I'll probably just fill that in with black silicone. After receiving the 1st case, I bought another one for my other Timber Bear!!!

Rather than describe the cases here, I have reviewed them at Amazon under the user name *ME*

Cheers!

Daryl

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[heimannm]

I have one original McCulloch yellow case with the detachable scabbard for the 600 Series saws. I can't quite match Amazon's shipping offer but I am willing to make someone a good deal if you're interested.

Mark

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Just thought I'd show y'all my "personalized" Timber Bear nestled in a Poo-Land case I recently purchased (That's a gel motorcycle grip on the handle). I purchased the case on Amazon (at present, $29.99 and free shipping). I had to modify the case a little by using a heat gun and mashing a few corners back in the bottom of the case, so the saw fit down in the bottom better. I heated, then used a piece of flat wood to mash a few corners back. I've included a photo of the spots I had to modify. The cases are branded with the Poo-Land name on top. I'll probably just fill that in with black silicone. After receiving the 1st case, I bought another one for my other Timber Bear!!!

Rather than describe the cases here, I have reviewed them at Amazon under the user name *ME*

Cheers!

Daryl

View attachment 240749
View attachment 240746

You did a good job making it fit. I have a bunch of scabbards but got rid of the cases..takes up too much room.

 

[~Yellow Streak~]

You did a good job making it fit. I have a bunch of scabbards but got rid of the cases..takes up too much room.

Thanks a. palmer jr.,

Yeah, I know the 600 series ain't no collectors items, since they aren't but about 20+/- years old, but they sell good on thebay and I just like to protect my Macs the best I can. I have a Pwr Mac 310 in the original yellow case. The scabbard has a slit in it where cutters have sliced it. You wouldn't happen to have a 16" yellow scabbard you'd let go of would ya? Then I could cut the "McCulloch" name sections out of my old scabbard and pop rivet them on top of the Poo-Land cases.

P.S. No offense to you Pou*lan owners. I like alot of the "old" ones myself. I'm mainly misspelling it so the thread doesn't come up in someones search and they look needlessly.

Daryl

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Thanks a. palmer jr.,

Yeah, I know the 600 series ain't no collectors items, since they aren't but about 20+/- years old, but they sell good on thebay and I just like to protect my Macs the best I can. I have a Pwr Mac 310 in the original yellow case. The scabbard has a slit in it where cutters have sliced it. You wouldn't happen to have a 16" yellow scabbard you'd let go of would ya? Then I could cut the "McCulloch" name sections out of my old scabbard and pop rivet them on top of the Poo-Land cases.

P.S. No offense to you Pou*lan owners. I like alot of the "old" ones myself. I'm mainly misspelling it so the thread doesn't come up in someones search and they look needlessly.

Daryl

It looks to me like the 600 saws ARE a collectors item. Like you said, they're selling really good on 'the bay. I'd like to get a scabbard for all my saws but unfortunately don't have enough for that. Many of the cases I've had are one piece like the Homelites so don't have a scabbard with them.

 

[~Yellow Streak~]

It looks to me like the 600 saws ARE a collectors item. Like you said, they're selling really good on 'the bay. I'd like to get a scabbard for all my saws but unfortunately don't have enough for that. Many of the cases I've had are one piece like the Homelites so don't have a scabbard with them.

Yeah, I guess you're right. Although, I wouldn't let mine go for some of the prices I've seen 'em go for lately on thebay. I'll snatch up every 600 series I come across locally and any other older Macs I come across, if the price is right. I'd even buy a used one of the taiwanese plasti-macs if the price was right. Just to tinker.

Check out thebay item number 180587988626
I bought three of them and each additional item's shipping is free.
They're for the newer McCulloch cases but, they serve the purpose of a scabbard!!
Albeit, only up to a 20" bar.

Best, Daryl

 

[heimannm]

I took my 655 out tonight just to test it, it will never replace the Stihl 036 or my 7-10 but it's not a bad saw. Needs just a bit more carburetor adjustment to get it exactly right.

I have 8 or 10 yellow scabbards like the ones designed for use with a case, I don't remember exactly what I paid for them but the next day the same seller had another 10 listed. Keep watching e-bay as they do come up frequently.

Mark

 

[~Yellow Streak~]

Yeah, customchainsawparts has some 18" ones on there right now. $10 each and $7 shipping with not much of a cut on additional item shipping. I'd never put a 18" bar on the 310. Way too underpowered for that. I've noticed some parts 310's go pretty cheap on there, with a bar cover. That'd be the way I'd go. Extra parts or fix-up.

You'd have to cut a notch in the scabbards I mentioned in my last post in order for them to be useable with the older cases. A square notch for the lid to close into. They are taller. At least, that's the "case" with my 310 case. I don't know if they would work in, say, a 600 series case. The only McCulloch case I have is the 310.

Best, Daryl

 

[~Yellow Streak~]

Ahhhh, now I see why it's been so quite in this thread. All you long time Mac guys have been patiently waiting, snickering when you think about it, and wondering when Yellow Streak was going to post back on his post about.....

(Quote) The Timber Bear that I bought has a problem with the oil line. When I press on the manual oiler, then let go, I hear a gurgle in the tank. I think the oil line has a split in the tank.

And then him saying....

(Quote) I love how easy it is to work on the 600 series. Well designed.

AAARRRRRGGGGH !!!
IS THERE AN EASY WAY TO PUT A NEW OIL LINE ON THIS BIOTCH !!?? :bang:

I can't see an easy way so....
Which way does the flywheel nut come off? (clockwise or counter)
Am I gonna be able to use a feeler guage like you would use on car valves to reset the coil air gap?
Will I have to use sealer between the oil tank and crankcase and how am I gonna keep sealer out of the oil gallery going to the bar? (I'm thinking that this mating surface would be just left bare and the close tolerances would suffice)

AND MY OTHER TIMBER BEAR HAS A CROSS-THREADED BAR BOLT, SO I'LL HAVE TO GO THROUGH THIS AGAIN !!! :bang:

I tell ya what... If I DO have to tear the oil tank (and coil, and flywheel, and clutch, and oil pump....) off to replace the #@%& tube, I'll be temped to see if I can run a brass tube through there that ends up about the middle of the oil tank filler hole. Epoxy that sucker in there!! :hmm3grin2orange: (save the next guy a headache, if not me)

By the way, If I'm going to have to go to all this trouble, what kind of muff mods are possible with the 600 series?

Daryl

 

[Chris-PA]

Ahhhh, now I see why it's been so quite in this thread. All you long time Mac guys have been patiently waiting, snickering when you think about it, and wondering when Yellow Streak was going to post back on his post about.....

(Quote) The Timber Bear that I bought has a problem with the oil line. When I press on the manual oiler, then let go, I hear a gurgle in the tank. I think the oil line has a split in the tank.

And then him saying....

(Quote) I love how easy it is to work on the 600 series. Well designed.

AAARRRRRGGGGH !!!
IS THERE AN EASY WAY TO PUT A NEW OIL LINE ON THIS BIOTCH !!?? :bang:

I can't see an easy way so....
Which way does the flywheel nut come off? (clockwise or counter)
Am I gonna be able to use a feeler guage like you would use on car valves to reset the coil air gap?
Will I have to use sealer between the oil tank and crankcase and how am I gonna keep sealer out of the oil gallery going to the bar? (I'm thinking that this mating surface would be just left bare and the close tolerances would suffice)

AND MY OTHER TIMBER BEAR HAS A CROSS-THREADED BAR BOLT, SO I'LL HAVE TO GO THROUGH THIS AGAIN !!! :bang:

I tell ya what... If I DO have to tear the oil tank (and coil, and flywheel, and clutch, and oil pump....) off to replace the #@%& tube, I'll be temped to see if I can run a brass tube through there that ends up about the middle of the oil tank filler hole. Epoxy that sucker in there!! :hmm3grin2orange: (save the next guy a headache, if not me)

Daryl

LOL - Chill dude, it's not that bad! I don't remember which way the flywheel nut comes off, maybe someone else can fill that in. Yes you will need sealant on the tank mating surface. It's not hard to put on. I also don't remember having to take off the coil, but if you do I just use a piece of cardboard to shim them. It seems like a big deal job but it's really not, just a minor PITA.

 

[~Yellow Streak~]

Thanks woodheatwarrior,

It is so much easier on my little 310. I was mainly just trying to give a chuckle. Glad I did.
It is a little frustrating. I'm wanting to run one of these puppies!

[edit] After examining the IPL again, I see what you mean woodheatwarrior. The crankcase actually forms the back wall of the oil tank. If I can find a small enough mirror, I'm gonna try my darndest to replace this hose without tearing it down. I just can't see the nipple. I'm thinking you could coil a coat hanger so that the new oil line is snug in it, and eventually work it on the nipple. It also appears that if you tap the old bar bolt out, it simply falls into the bottom of the oil tank. Then you could take a pair of long hemostats and put the new bar bolt in place. The bar bolt shouldn't need any sealer because, after all, it comes through at the bar. It'd probably be best to put a little silicone sealer on there though, so it wouldn't possibly seep and drip. I'll post back if I'm successful.

Daryl

 

[a. palmer jr.]

LOL - Chill dude, it's not that bad! I don't remember which way the flywheel nut comes off, maybe someone else can fill that in. Yes you will need sealant on the tank mating surface. It's not hard to put on. I also don't remember having to take off the coil, but if you do I just use a piece of cardboard to shim them. It seems like a big deal job but it's really not, just a minor PITA.

You can also use a feeler gauge if you wish.

 

[~Yellow Streak~]

Well, scratch my idea about using a bent coat hanger. That was a total brainfart. After I realized, "What was I thinking", I did contemplate taking a hole saw to the top of the oil tank and finding a rubber plug afterwards.
(actually, that's not a bad idea now that I have the tank off. IF you could keep from fracturing the casting)

I wish I had the time to take pictures and make a detailed description of this operation to help others. I'm not very good with photography. I only had to remove the clutch, inner bar plate, bottom shroud, muffler and oil pump assembly to get to the point where I could remove the oil tank bolts. Whether I'll have to loosen the coil and reset the air gap after reassembly is yet to be seen.

What sealer would be best to seal the tank back to the crankcase? Hardening Permatex? Other? Also, McCulloch used a red thread lock of some kind on the bolts. What thread lock would be best (as far as ease of removal next time)? Any preferences?

D

 

[Eccentric]

Well, scratch my idea about using a bent coat hanger. That was a total brainfart. After I realized, "What was I thinking", I did contemplate taking a hole saw to the top of the oil tank and finding a rubber plug afterwards.
(actually, that's not a bad idea now that I have the tank off. IF you could keep from fracturing the casting)

I wish I had the time to take pictures and make a detailed description of this operation to help others. I'm not very good with photography. I only had to remove the clutch, inner bar plate, bottom shroud, muffler and oil pump assembly to get to the point where I could remove the oil tank bolts. Whether I'll have to loosen the coil and reset the air gap after reassembly is yet to be seen.

What sealer would be best to seal the tank back to the crankcase? Hardening Permatex? Other? Also, McCulloch used a red thread lock of some kind on the bolts. What thread lock would be best (as far as ease of removal next time)? Any preferences?

D

Blue Loctite 242. Clean the oil off of the bolts and out of the holes first. As for the sealer, Threebond 1194 is where it's at. Go to your local Honda motorcycle shop and get a tube of Hondabond-4. It's the same thing. Just packaged for Honda. The Honda part number even has "1194" in it. There's a Yamabond that's the same too. I think it's also "4", as in Yamabond-4. Same with Suzukibond-4 and Kawasakibond-4. All made by Threebond...

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/loctite-threadlocker-blue-242.htm

http://www.threebond.co.uk/PRODUCTS/ThreeBondSealants/LiquidGaskets/tabid/229/Default.aspx

http://www.google.com/products/cata...a=X&ei=MubUT6fQNeKe2AXVleXqDw&ved=0CHoQ8wIwAQ

 

[Chris-PA]

Seal-All at Advance Auto.

 

[~Yellow Streak~]

Thanks Eccentric !

Thanks woodheatwarrior !



D