Newest addition to the Moustache Fleet

[unclemoustache]

OK, so it's only a trailer, but I'm pleased - 16-foot, 7000 lbs, electric brakes, nice ramp and all. Needs a new deck as you can see, but the guy who sold it to me recommended putting a steel deck on there - even offered to do it himself for $150 plus materials. If he lived closer I'd jump on that in a heartbeat, but it was a 1 hour drive to get this as is. I'll probably just put it on myself.

Anybody else with a steel bed in a trailer? Any tips?

Had a bit of drama with the tail lights, since I had to drive home in the dark. (some of you may recall this thread about a similar drama here http://www.arboristsite.com/off-topic-forum/190870.htm )
They wouldn't stay on very well at all, seller said it was because of the rust inside the ball reciever, it wasn't getting a proper ground. I tried to clean it out with a rag, but it didn't do the trick, so I taped a couple flashlights onto the back with some red plastic film over the lights.
On the interstate, a cop drove by me, so I guess he thought it was OK, or maybe he was focused on something else, for he pulled over a guy two cars up. Later I noticed that the lights were in fact working, so I guess the driving managed to get it clear enough for a good ground.

Like you really wanted to hear all that, but if you've read this far, then that means you're not doing anything anyway, and you probably ought to go play with your kids instead of hearing me ramble. Speaking of which, I think I'll go do that myself!:msp_sneaky:

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[unclemoustache]

Oh yes - anybody interested in a 12' tilt trailer???

 

[OH_Varmntr]

Steel decking on a trailer is totally worth it, but only if you have the crossmember supports to handle it. If they are too far apart, you'll need pretty thick stuff to keep it from being dented.

I just redid my 5th wheel trailer. 8ft front upper deck and a 24ft main deck. I pretty much rebuilt this entire trailer. 24" OC cross members and I'm using .186" steel decking. Since this pic I've rewired the trailer and installed lights, as well as 18k# weld-on d-rings on the perimeter c-channel.

 

[KenJax Tree]

Damn it Unc Stache i thought the baby was born and you were gonna get some new baby rep but all i see is a trailer:msp_mad:

 

[Mac88]

I don't know why trailer builders insist on running the ground through the hitch. That ALWAYS causes problems. You'll be money ahead to just install the appropriate connecters on the tow vehicle and trailer that include the ground in the harness.

We haul wood on something similar. My personal suggestion is go with a wood deck (PT 2 by's). Unless you put some pretty hefty metal decking on it you will end up with a bunch of dents and valleys that hold water and promote rust.

Got pics of the tilt? any price in mind?

 

[OH_Varmntr]

Oh, by the way, I have the same trailer as you. This is the one I used to haul wood before I bought my 5th wheel log hauler. We have replaced the wooden decking twice.

 

[Gavman]

If the deck is decent, why not put some 1/2" or 5/8" plywood over top and call it done, looks good though

 

[haveawoody]

Next time the wood deck gets bad try those plastic composit boards they make for outdoor decks.
The look just like 2"x8" or 2"x6" lumber but are palastic so will never rot.

Almost identical to mine, i put a higher rail on the sides and front and changed out the deck to plastic.
You can carry some serious quantity of rounds on it.
For me it likes to be loaded more at the front than even loading of wood.
Tends to be rear heavy loaded evenly.

Other than that issue that all wood decks have it's a nice haul beast.

 

[AIM]

Your trailer is likely not made with enough support under the deck for steel unless you go quite thick. (something like 1/4") (very heavy)
You can weld in additional supports for thinner steel and then you could get down to 3/16" or maybe even 10 gage.

If you go with steel do NOT paint it. Let it get rusty. Painted decks are slippery as all get out. Once they get rusty they aren't to bad. (this even applies to tread plate)

PT lumber works pretty well but you have the slippery thing again.

Rough sawn lumber from a sawmill seems to work the best in the experiences I've had.

PS. I have considered expanded metal but that brings in a whole host of issues.

 

[confused8122]

Not much to add about trailers, except wood is better depending on what you use it for. Bolt or screw temporary tie downs anywhere anytime. Screw down 2x4 for bracing, all depends on what you are using it for.

On a different note, I thought maybe you got a paint job and a pop up camper. Last week I saw a white limo similar to yours, going down the highway, towing a pop up. Made me think of uncle mustache.

 

[Walt41]

Like others have said, wood beds usually require more cross bracing to convert to steel, I'd stay with wood. Make sure you spend some time to pack the bearings and clean/adjust the brakes before you load it up big.
Don't forget the Maine plate deal, save some money to feed your troops!

 

[RAMROD48]

Oh, by the way, I have the same trailer as you. This is the one I used to haul wood before I bought my 5th wheel log hauler. We have replaced the wooden decking twice.

Sway much?

Ever heard of a drop hitch? You can get really nice ones for about $150.

 

[mga]

i replaced the deck on my 16' trailer...used 2 x 6 pressure treated wood....the better ones. i secured them with torx screws. when i began installing i worked from the center out and used a long clamp to squeezed them tight one by one. (they'll shrink slightly after a while and leave just a 1/4" gap)

then i covered them with thompson's water proof/sealer...in fact, i did 5 coats.

i've had that loaded with wood and other heavy things and nothing has harmed the wood.

 

[wagz]

i'd just replace the boards that are missing or rotten and call it a day, if all you're hauling on it is firewood... looks nice and big.

 

[Aaron441]

I don't know why trailer builders insist on running the ground through the hitch. That ALWAYS causes problems. You'll be money ahead to just install the appropriate connecters on the tow vehicle and trailer that include the ground in the harness.

YES!! It take one more wire, then you always have a good ground.

 

[OH_Varmntr]

Sway much?

Ever heard of a drop hitch? You can get really nice ones for about $150.

Nah, never had a problem with sway.

Moustache, one thing you might want to do if you're going to be hauling firewood is to install paneling on the rails like my trailer has. Keeps things from rolling out of the trailer.

 

[cantoo]

Don't put plywood over those boards, it will hold mositure and rot out really really quick. I just use spruce 2x10's on mine and they last quite a few years. I have steel on my truck and you really have to pay attention when wet or frozen, I nearly severed my thumb when I slipped and fell one day while loading a heavy drill on it, lost footing it fell and my thumb was between drill press and side rail, bloody mess.

 

[unclemoustache]

Damn it Unc Stache i thought the baby was born and you were gonna get some new baby rep but all i see is a trailer:msp_mad:

:msp_biggrin: Thanks! No, new kid isn't coming until the end of November. Don't worry, I'll not forget to put up a rep-worthy post!!

Next time the wood deck gets bad try those plastic composit boards they make for outdoor decks.
The look just like 2"x8" or 2"x6" lumber but are palastic so will never rot.

I'm very seriously considering that. That stuff is pretty good (just built two decks with it).

Your trailer is likely not made with enough support under the deck for steel unless you go quite thick. (something like 1/4") (very heavy)
You can weld in additional supports for thinner steel and then you could get down to 3/16" or maybe even 10 gage.
If you go with steel do NOT paint it. Let it get rusty. Painted decks are slippery as all get out. Once they get rusty they aren't to bad. (this even applies to tread plate).

Yes, I've heard that. And I think you're right - I'd need to add a lot of support underneath. I'm not sure it's worth it.

On a different note, I thought maybe you got a paint job and a pop up camper. Last week I saw a white limo similar to yours, going down the highway, towing a pop up. Made me think of uncle mustache.

Funny - I asked my wife this summer if she liked the idea of a pop-up, and she was quite adament against it! The older I get, the more appealing it sounds, though.

Like others have said, wood beds usually require more cross bracing to convert to steel, I'd stay with wood. Make sure you spend some time to pack the bearings and clean/adjust the brakes before you load it up big.
Don't forget the Maine plate deal, save some money to feed your troops!

Maine plate deal??? What's that?

Moustache, one thing you might want to do if you're going to be hauling firewood is to install paneling on the rails like my trailer has. Keeps things from rolling out of the trailer.

Yes, I'll definately install some side panels. My other trailer has 3/4" Advantech, 3' high all the way around. I'll probably do the same thing, but I'll probably weld some metal along the top of it this time.

BTW, I haul all kinds of stuff - gravel, dirt, sand, lumber, firewood, kids, skid steers, furniture, and whatnot. I like the idea of steel for the sand and dirt, but not for the slip factor and the effort to keep it from denting. I like wood for the simplicity, but not for the cracks and the lack of durability. Maybe the PVC decking is the way to go, and wedge them tight together so the cracks are closed. What think ye of this?

 

[zogger]

Around here it appears rough oak for heavy load trailers and steel mesh for light duty.

 

[unclemoustache]

BTW, to answer Mac88, here's my Craisglist ad.

12' tilt-bedutility trailer, 3000 lb., dual axle