optimal bar chain for novice ms261 owner

[grass disaster]

as many of you know i just got a ms261.

i got rid of all my old chains and saw.

i'm starting over from scratch basically. i have to take it back to the dealer because he mistakenly gave me the wrong length.

i want a 18"

some talk about a es bar. and different chain....i'm not sure what any of this even means. it comes stock with the .325



i might try talk him into settin up the 3/8 chain. i want to make the switch now if i need so i dont have a bunch of odds and ends laying around.

 

[lambs]

If you intend to keep it stock, use .325 pitch chain, and either 16 or 18 inch bar. I have both with mine (stock) and almost never use the 18". But if it were my only saw, I'd probably go with the 18. The local dealers where I live will not convert one to 3/8 pitch. But you will read on AS that there are people who do so after modifying their saw, and apparently they like them that way with a 16" bar.

That's my advice. Your experience may differ.

 

[Philbert]

Several threads on this exact topic, if you search for it. No right answer, only opinions.

.325 takes more, smaller cuts. 3/8 takes fewer, larger cuts. Time trials come out close enough that there is no significant difference. If you had other saws that ran the same 3/8, .050 chain, you might make an argument about only buying one type of chain by the reel. If not . . .

STIHL engineers think that .325 pitch, .063 gauge is the best choice for your saw. Go argue with them (in German). Replacement loops will be easier to find at any STIHL dealer because of that.

If you have had other saws, you probably already have decided whether or not you feel low-kickback chain is important to you. Chisel cuts faster - dulls faster. Semi - chisel cuts slower - keeps cutting longer. It's what most people use.

16" to 18" bar. You could pull a longer bar, but not 'optimal' for that saw - power and balance. STIHL OEM bars are usually pretty good quality.

Your choice. Some depends on what you are planning on cutting.

Philbert

 

[Bob R]

My Stock MS261 is set up with a 16" Rollomatic E bar that uses .325, .063 ga chain. I use Stihl (yellow) RMC chain and it's Great!

 

[fearofpavement]

On that saw I would run an 18" bar and semi-chisel chain. Probably what it came with. May want to go with a yellow (non-safety) chain when you replace whats on there but the safety chain will cut fine too. Keep it sharp no matter what kind of chain you run. That is probably hands down the most significant thing you can do to cut fast and make your saw happy.

 

[grass disaster]

Several threads on this exact topic, if you search for it. No right answer, only opinions.

.325 takes more, smaller cuts. 3/8 takes fewer, larger cuts. Time trials come out close enough that there is no significant difference. If you had other saws that ran the same 3/8, .050 chain, you might make an argument about only buying one type of chain by the reel. If not . . .

STIHL engineers think that .325 pitch, .063 gauge is the best choice for your saw. Go argue with them (in German). Replacement loops will be easier to find at any STIHL dealer because of that.

If you have had other saws, you probably already have decided whether or not you feel low-kickback chain is important to you. Chisel cuts faster - dulls faster. Semi - chisel cuts slower - keeps cutting longer. It's what most people use.

16" to 18" bar. You could pull a longer bar, but not 'optimal' for that saw - power and balance. STIHL OEM bars are usually pretty good quality.

Your choice. Some depends on what you are planning on cutting.

Philbert

i'm going to got to 18" for sure.

i did read some other posts and didnt come to a conclusion.

was reading that i should go to a possibly different bar. an es bar possibly. but those only come in a 3/8, i thought.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I hate to admit this, but I pinched and ruined the 18" 3/8, "E" bar that I spec'd when I bought my 261. (I wanted to simplify my life having mostly 3/8 chains). Since I wrecked the E bar, I went with the heavier duty 18" ES and it spoiled the balance,(nose heavy). Now I have gone with a 16"ES and put the 18" on the back burner. The ES is heavier than the regular E bar and has a replaceable sprocket nose. You will get lots of opinions, but as stated the Stihl Engineers probably got it right with the .325. Most of what I cut with this saw is 10-12" standing dead oak. DW

 

[struggle]

My 261 is muffler modded and limiter is removed from carb and retuned to 13,800. it runs strong with the 16" .325 and I'm sure it would do well with an 18" with .325.

If ported then 3/8 from what it seems would be fine. I would stick with .325 myself

 

[Philbert]

I was reading that i should go to a possibly different bar. an es bar possibly. but those only come in a 3/8,

From the STIHL website, it looks like the ES is the lightweight bar? These usually only make a difference in longer bars (24" +), which is why it might only come in 3/8" pitch - longer bars and larger saws need heavier chain due to the additional stress placed on the links.

I don't think that you need the lightweight feature for this saw and an 18" bar. Pick it up with a standard STIHL bar and see how it balances. Even if it is available, it will be quite a bit more expensive, but will not last any longer or cut any better.

JMHO

Philbert

 

[Duane(Pa)]

They make an ES Light, for 28" plus, but the standard ES is heavier than the E bar. Ask me how I know...

 

[Philbert]

OK - too many STIHL guide bars to keep straight. They used to have this all one one page to compare, but now you gotta click on several:

- Chain Saw Guide Bars - Light Weight Chainsaw Guide Bars | STIHL USA

It looks like the 'Rollmatic E Super' and 'Duromatic' are machined from a solid billet. They are stronger and more durable, but they are heavier and more expensive. I was told that these are intended for very heavy use, and where subject to damage from pinching, etc. But the even the 'basic' STIHL laminated bars are very good quality.

The lightweight bars (hollowed out, or with aluminum filler plates) are lighter, less durable, and also more expensive.

I would take the $ difference and buy a second bar (same size and pitch) on sale at Bailey's just to have in case you get yours stuck. Or buy an extra rim sprocket, extra chains, a few wedges, spare air filter or spark plugs, etc.

***Make sure you ask how to double your warranty for a few bucks by buying some Ultra oil!***

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

They used to have this all one one page to compare,. . .

OK - go to Page 40 in this on-line catalog:

- STIHL Online Catalog

 

[msvold]

On my 026, I prefer Stihl RM chain. RM is Rapid Micro but its the name for their semi chisel chain. Semi chisel stays sharper longer in all conditions of wood (clean/ dirty). Full chisel (RS or Rapid Super) in my experience cuts faster the first tree or for the first half of your fuel tank, buts as it dulls, the advantage goes to RM. I cut only hardwood (Oak and Shagbark Hickory) for firewood, so my experience is based on cutting in that type of wood.
You can do a search on best chain for 026/260, I remember a few like the 3/8s and some like the .325 better after experimenting with both. I may try my own experiment, but for now, I'm still running .325 RM chain.

 

[LowVolt]

.325 x .063 x 74 DL Stihl Rollmatic E bar and Matching Stihl RM Chain

 

[homelitejim]

I run 3/8 on a 16 inch bar on my ms260 and it is a wood light saber, way better than the 20 inch set up it came with.

 

[Frogfarmer]

16" E in .325 .063 with the RMC chain. I use this size saw for most of what I do and that is by far my fave. The 3/8 with an agressive grind is too much for the saw. I do like and dont run 18" on anything but I have several saws and grab a bigger saw with a 20" if I need to. For a 1 saw plan the 18" might work for you just not for me. As stated above the solid ES bars make the smaller saws heavy in the nose and I have had excellent life out of the E bars without the weight.

 

[H 2 H]

IMO; .325 will get dull faster than a .375 chain and will be slower in the cut. Wouldn't a .375 ES bar cut faster while bucking; ES bar being a little heavier (less work for the operator) than a E bar

I ran both on my 261 and I run 18" ES bar on mine and I have .325 E bar also

I also run 20" E 3/8's b/c on it :msp_smile:

 

[Philip Wheelock]

as many of you know i just got a ms261.

i got rid of all my old chains and saw.

i'm starting over from scratch basically. i have to take it back to the dealer because he mistakenly gave me the wrong length.

i want a 18"

some talk about a es bar. and different chain....i'm not sure what any of this even means. it comes stock with the .325

i might try talk him into settin up the 3/8 chain. i want to make the switch now if i need so i dont have a bunch of odds and ends laying around.

Guess it depends what you'll be spending most of your time doing. I know that some would rather have a longer bar for better reach when limbing. For burying the bar in bigger wood, I'd take the 16" bar - a 50cc saw has only so much torque. Also, the 16" bar because there are fewer links to sharpen. Congrats on the saw choice...

 

[SawTroll]

i'm going to got to 18" for sure.

i did read some other posts and didnt come to a conclusion.

was reading that i should go to a possibly different bar. an es bar possibly. but those only come in a 3/8, i thought.

Philbert is right, just stay with .325 and Rollomatic E.

 

[Trailtrimmer]

i'm going to got to 18" for sure.

i did read some other posts and didnt come to a conclusion.

was reading that i should go to a possibly different bar. an es bar possibly. but those only come in a 3/8, i thought.

I'd just roll with .325 on a the 18" bar, that saw will run perfect with that setup.